Inferno MP9 thread
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Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
I've used the Agama outdrives on the front for over a year now. They are a perfect fit. Haven't had a single driveshaft pop out once I started using these.
Thanks for all the help. Everything Sean suggested worked very well. Got the rear end planted very good even with 30weight in the rear. Wheel base length makes a huge difference even with small adjustments.
HI
There was a similar request for more exit grip a few pages back , this was Sean Gaffneys reply, which i found really helpful. Thanks Sean
--Change rear diff to 2k or 1k. This will help get the car into the corners better off power, and allow you to get on power sooner without worrying about on-power oversteer as much.
--Change center diff to 4k. When the track gets rough, dropping the center oil makes the car easier to drive overall.
--Go up in rear shock oil to 32.5 losi. Your car looked a bit unsettled in the rear and I attribute that to a very rough track and thin shock oil (30 is thin imo). The result is an under-damped shock package that appears bouncy on track (oil is not thick enough to dampen the spring force).
--Run the narrow wheel hexes in the rear. This will help lock the rear end in more.
--Try the H setting for the upper hinge pins in the front. Remember to flip the back bushings as well so the holes are at the top when running the H. I tend to prefer the H setting on lower grip surfaces as it allows the front end to roll more entering a corner, and gives the feeling of more grip when cornering, rather than the plow effect (wheels turned but car goes straight, i.e. push).
--Experiment with rear hub position. You will find that the more rearward you move the hubs, the car will want to oversteer on power and push off power. The more forward you move them, it should push on power and oversteer off power. The caveat is balancing traction with bump handling, as longer wheelbases tend to handle rougher tracks better.
There was a similar request for more exit grip a few pages back , this was Sean Gaffneys reply, which i found really helpful. Thanks Sean
--Change rear diff to 2k or 1k. This will help get the car into the corners better off power, and allow you to get on power sooner without worrying about on-power oversteer as much.
--Change center diff to 4k. When the track gets rough, dropping the center oil makes the car easier to drive overall.
--Go up in rear shock oil to 32.5 losi. Your car looked a bit unsettled in the rear and I attribute that to a very rough track and thin shock oil (30 is thin imo). The result is an under-damped shock package that appears bouncy on track (oil is not thick enough to dampen the spring force).
--Run the narrow wheel hexes in the rear. This will help lock the rear end in more.
--Try the H setting for the upper hinge pins in the front. Remember to flip the back bushings as well so the holes are at the top when running the H. I tend to prefer the H setting on lower grip surfaces as it allows the front end to roll more entering a corner, and gives the feeling of more grip when cornering, rather than the plow effect (wheels turned but car goes straight, i.e. push).
--Experiment with rear hub position. You will find that the more rearward you move the hubs, the car will want to oversteer on power and push off power. The more forward you move them, it should push on power and oversteer off power. The caveat is balancing traction with bump handling, as longer wheelbases tend to handle rougher tracks better.
Tech Master
Thanks
So was the wheelbase the change that made the difference or something else?
I think the biggest difference was the wheel base. I also changed center diff to 4K and rear to 2K, dropped rear roll center all the way down to 10.
Really helped settle the rear end and squares up perfect out of corners.
Does anyone use ABS on there transmitter? Next I want to look at controlling hard braking after the long straight better.
Thanks again for all the help. Starting to figure out what changes what. Makes life a little more fun at the track.
Really helped settle the rear end and squares up perfect out of corners.
Does anyone use ABS on there transmitter? Next I want to look at controlling hard braking after the long straight better.
Thanks again for all the help. Starting to figure out what changes what. Makes life a little more fun at the track.
Tech Master
Be carful with ABS, usually servo goes bad.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
Can someone confirm the aluminum rear hubs that come in the tki3 kit. Are they off-2.0?
Tech Adept
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
So does off-2.0 mean they are 2mm offset? And are they narrower or wider than standard?
I'm in need of some info guys. Right now I have a MBX7 but a buddy of mine has a TKI 2 that has about a gallon on it and I can get it cheap. My question is, is there much difference in it and the TKI 3 ? Can a person upgrade the 2 to the 3 or are they completely different ?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
I'm in need of some info guys. Right now I have a MBX7 but a buddy of mine has a TKI 2 that has about a gallon on it and I can get it cheap. My question is, is there much difference in it and the TKI 3 ? Can a person upgrade the 2 to the 3 or are they completely different ?
Tech Rookie
Thanks for the info on grease guys.
Lt blue front , Orange rear became very popular because of the copying of set up sheets. With orange in the rear on a bumpy track the rear tires will follow the terrain better and allow better acceleration.
The best thing you can do is try both spring combinations and know what to look for when so you can see what you like better.
Reset your ride height with the spring change.
When Tebo does it, he moves the upper shock mounting loc out one hole for the orange spring.
Springs can affect the what the car does on track in many ways, but I'd say the basics to look for are..
1) jump hieght, distance and nose pitch.
2) straight line acceleration and driving through bumps.
3) does the car want to round the corner the way you like?
(for me, this is why I don't like mismatched springs. With lt blut front and orange rear, the rear is too locked down and doesn't want to rotate. I like orange all the way around or lt blue all the way around because I feel the car turns more proportionally to my steering input. However, the track I usually run on is rather tight. On full size 1/8 scale track it's not as applicable).
Lt blue front , Orange rear became very popular because of the copying of set up sheets. With orange in the rear on a bumpy track the rear tires will follow the terrain better and allow better acceleration.
The best thing you can do is try both spring combinations and know what to look for when so you can see what you like better.
Reset your ride height with the spring change.
When Tebo does it, he moves the upper shock mounting loc out one hole for the orange spring.
Springs can affect the what the car does on track in many ways, but I'd say the basics to look for are..
1) jump hieght, distance and nose pitch.
2) straight line acceleration and driving through bumps.
3) does the car want to round the corner the way you like?
(for me, this is why I don't like mismatched springs. With lt blut front and orange rear, the rear is too locked down and doesn't want to rotate. I like orange all the way around or lt blue all the way around because I feel the car turns more proportionally to my steering input. However, the track I usually run on is rather tight. On full size 1/8 scale track it's not as applicable).
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
Here is a cool little video that my brother put together for me. My mp9 is the yellow wheels..
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ko6MNsC_agk
U can also like my Facebook page here.
https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?i...2&ref=bookmark
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ko6MNsC_agk
U can also like my Facebook page here.
https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?i...2&ref=bookmark