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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 08-17-2014, 06:17 PM
  #17716  
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Originally Posted by am
Just a question, is anyone using OFNA or Agama outdrives on the front of their MP9? Anyone found a different gearset for diffs thats not in aluminium but steel?
I've used the Agama outdrives on the front for over a year now. They are a perfect fit. Haven't had a single driveshaft pop out once I started using these.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:37 PM
  #17717  
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Thanks for all the help. Everything Sean suggested worked very well. Got the rear end planted very good even with 30weight in the rear. Wheel base length makes a huge difference even with small adjustments.

Originally Posted by WillF
HI

There was a similar request for more exit grip a few pages back , this was Sean Gaffneys reply, which i found really helpful. Thanks Sean

--Change rear diff to 2k or 1k. This will help get the car into the corners better off power, and allow you to get on power sooner without worrying about on-power oversteer as much.
--Change center diff to 4k. When the track gets rough, dropping the center oil makes the car easier to drive overall.
--Go up in rear shock oil to 32.5 losi. Your car looked a bit unsettled in the rear and I attribute that to a very rough track and thin shock oil (30 is thin imo). The result is an under-damped shock package that appears bouncy on track (oil is not thick enough to dampen the spring force).
--Run the narrow wheel hexes in the rear. This will help lock the rear end in more.
--Try the H setting for the upper hinge pins in the front. Remember to flip the back bushings as well so the holes are at the top when running the H. I tend to prefer the H setting on lower grip surfaces as it allows the front end to roll more entering a corner, and gives the feeling of more grip when cornering, rather than the plow effect (wheels turned but car goes straight, i.e. push).
--Experiment with rear hub position. You will find that the more rearward you move the hubs, the car will want to oversteer on power and push off power. The more forward you move them, it should push on power and oversteer off power. The caveat is balancing traction with bump handling, as longer wheelbases tend to handle rougher tracks better.
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:43 PM
  #17718  
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Thanks
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:20 AM
  #17719  
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Originally Posted by WillF
Hey STRR.
Funny how wheelbase works on the MP9, on my Mugens I used to go to longer wheelbase to give it more steering in and out.
Yeah that's awesome it was a win win and not a give and take!


Originally Posted by RiPPeN302
Thanks for all the help. Everything Sean suggested worked very well. Got the rear end planted very good even with 30weight in the rear. Wheel base length makes a huge difference even with small adjustments.
So was the wheelbase the change that made the difference or something else?
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:21 AM
  #17720  
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I think the biggest difference was the wheel base. I also changed center diff to 4K and rear to 2K, dropped rear roll center all the way down to 10.
Really helped settle the rear end and squares up perfect out of corners.

Does anyone use ABS on there transmitter? Next I want to look at controlling hard braking after the long straight better.

Thanks again for all the help. Starting to figure out what changes what. Makes life a little more fun at the track.
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:20 AM
  #17721  
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Be carful with ABS, usually servo goes bad.
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:35 AM
  #17722  
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Can someone confirm the aluminum rear hubs that come in the tki3 kit. Are they off-2.0?
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:52 AM
  #17723  
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Originally Posted by stwallac2007
I've used the Agama outdrives on the front for over a year now. They are a perfect fit. Haven't had a single driveshaft pop out once I started using these.

Hello stwallac, which code the outdrive agama are you using?

Thank you
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:56 AM
  #17724  
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Originally Posted by Tyson72
Can someone confirm the aluminum rear hubs that come in the tki3 kit. Are they off-2.0?
Yep
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:14 PM
  #17725  
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So does off-2.0 mean they are 2mm offset? And are they narrower or wider than standard?
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:23 PM
  #17726  
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I'm in need of some info guys. Right now I have a MBX7 but a buddy of mine has a TKI 2 that has about a gallon on it and I can get it cheap. My question is, is there much difference in it and the TKI 3 ? Can a person upgrade the 2 to the 3 or are they completely different ?
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:16 PM
  #17727  
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Originally Posted by We B Jammin
I'm in need of some info guys. Right now I have a MBX7 but a buddy of mine has a TKI 2 that has about a gallon on it and I can get it cheap. My question is, is there much difference in it and the TKI 3 ? Can a person upgrade the 2 to the 3 or are they completely different ?
It's super simple. Just the radio tray, RX and Battery box. That's it!
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:51 PM
  #17728  
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Originally Posted by hookem34
It's super simple. Just the radio tray, RX and Battery box. That's it!
Thanks. Now where is a good place to find a decent setup for a tight indoor high grip track or at least a decent base setup ?
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:41 PM
  #17729  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
Thanks for the info on grease guys.


Lt blue front , Orange rear became very popular because of the copying of set up sheets. With orange in the rear on a bumpy track the rear tires will follow the terrain better and allow better acceleration.

The best thing you can do is try both spring combinations and know what to look for when so you can see what you like better.

Reset your ride height with the spring change.

When Tebo does it, he moves the upper shock mounting loc out one hole for the orange spring.

Springs can affect the what the car does on track in many ways, but I'd say the basics to look for are..

1) jump hieght, distance and nose pitch.

2) straight line acceleration and driving through bumps.

3) does the car want to round the corner the way you like?
(for me, this is why I don't like mismatched springs. With lt blut front and orange rear, the rear is too locked down and doesn't want to rotate. I like orange all the way around or lt blue all the way around because I feel the car turns more proportionally to my steering input. However, the track I usually run on is rather tight. On full size 1/8 scale track it's not as applicable).
Anyone that has run the LB/Orange spring combo, will it work at tracks like Revelation, Thunder alley,etc? My car right now seems to be a bit tail happy and I cant carry much corner speed. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:09 PM
  #17730  
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Here is a cool little video that my brother put together for me. My mp9 is the yellow wheels..

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ko6MNsC_agk

U can also like my Facebook page here.
https://m.facebook.com/profile.php?i...2&ref=bookmark
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