1LikesInferno MP9 thread
10-10-2016, 02:30 PM - Wikipost
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05-05-2014, 01:00 PM
Negative on loctite on the flywheel nut.. I'm surprised to hear that advice from an engine guy. They normally hate that because of the PITA to remove the nut on the crank with all that crap on it. 
.. let me explain why..
The collet is tapered, and it can pop loose whether there is any loctite on the threads or not. Putting loctite on the flywheel nut DOES NOT assure the flywheel will stay tight, and it may even do the opposite. The only thing you are doing with loctite on crank threads is assuring that the flywheel nut is not going to move. So if the collet pops loose, you are assuring you are done because the car won't work. If you do not loctite the threads, and the collet pops loose, you might be able to finish your race because the clutch nut is holding it, and the flywheel nut "might" stay tight enough to finish a race.
My advice is to just torque down the nut very tight with no loctite. Every major engine manufacturer we have worked with does not like to use loctite on the flywheel nuts.
.. let me explain why..The collet is tapered, and it can pop loose whether there is any loctite on the threads or not. Putting loctite on the flywheel nut DOES NOT assure the flywheel will stay tight, and it may even do the opposite. The only thing you are doing with loctite on crank threads is assuring that the flywheel nut is not going to move. So if the collet pops loose, you are assuring you are done because the car won't work. If you do not loctite the threads, and the collet pops loose, you might be able to finish your race because the clutch nut is holding it, and the flywheel nut "might" stay tight enough to finish a race.
My advice is to just torque down the nut very tight with no loctite. Every major engine manufacturer we have worked with does not like to use loctite on the flywheel nuts.
05-05-2014, 01:05 PM
ya thats what im running also going 5/7/3 on the diffs,1.0 clutch springs with silver shoes..just dont seem to have the acceleration I need out of the corner
If I go down to 1 degree anti squat that will give me more foward bite right?
If I go down to 1 degree anti squat that will give me more foward bite right?
Last edited by KyoshoRed; 05-05-2014 at 01:17 PM.
05-05-2014, 01:17 PM
Is this on a buggy? I really recommend using the blue aluminum shoes. The silver slip more.. and if you can use the new vented clutch bell, it's really good. The clutch runs so much cleaner and so much longer.
05-05-2014, 01:30 PM
05-05-2014, 01:35 PM
Tech Adept
When you say 'acceleration you need', is it not enough grip or not enough drive. Are the front or rear wheels spinning ?
Going to one degree anti will likely transfer more weight to the rear under power, so will give less rear wheel spin, but often you have more front wheel spin as the front lifts up. Going to 3 degree (lifting the front of the rear arm) will stiffen up the back suspension under power limiting the squating and keeping your front wheels in contact wit the track.
Last edited by WillF; 05-05-2014 at 01:53 PM. Reason: speling
05-05-2014, 01:38 PM
No I seem to be getting good traction but when in a close run with other cars i seem to be getting beat out of the corner. I can out corner most cars and get a length or two but then the other car can suck right back up to me out of the corner.
05-05-2014, 01:39 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
The only thing I haven't replaced is the actual flywheel. It has spun twice on the Orion engine and now twice on the O.S. That might be the issue? I will try all new clutch components and see if that corrects the problem as well as the Loctite and all other cleaning procedures. Thanks for the help!!
A flywheel with smooth surfaces where the conical fit is will barely ever spin, and usually needs a flywheel tool to remove.
At least mine were this good.
Avoid Loctite if possible.
05-05-2014, 03:46 PM
Tech Adept
also smaller carb venturis can delivery more pop out of the corner.
05-06-2014, 06:42 AM
My TKI3 accelerates super hard with my OS XZB Speed .21 (not the spec II).
I always run Codys WC setup with 5/5/3 in my diffs with Kyosho silver clutch shoes and 1.0 springs. I usually have to be careful with my throttle finger or use an alternate line when exiting onto the straights so that I don't get into the back of any cars that might be in front of me. This buggy is hooked the eff up!
I always run Codys WC setup with 5/5/3 in my diffs with Kyosho silver clutch shoes and 1.0 springs. I usually have to be careful with my throttle finger or use an alternate line when exiting onto the straights so that I don't get into the back of any cars that might be in front of me. This buggy is hooked the eff up!
05-06-2014, 11:17 AM
hi,
just a little question about how to set the backlash on the diffs (buggy is basically new)
do you use the stock shim on the gear side of the diff? when I do so the gears are quite tight, there is no play so should I rather put it on the non-crown side?
I did some research too about the shim that some use behind the pinion. Some use 0,1mm, others 0.2mm, some don't even use any.. what did you do?
last question: should there be any play between the pinion bearing and driveshaft before tightening the screw to fix the driveshaft on the pinion axle?
thanks!
just a little question about how to set the backlash on the diffs (buggy is basically new)
do you use the stock shim on the gear side of the diff? when I do so the gears are quite tight, there is no play so should I rather put it on the non-crown side?
I did some research too about the shim that some use behind the pinion. Some use 0,1mm, others 0.2mm, some don't even use any.. what did you do?
last question: should there be any play between the pinion bearing and driveshaft before tightening the screw to fix the driveshaft on the pinion axle?
thanks!
05-06-2014, 01:45 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
hi,
just a little question about how to set the backlash on the diffs (buggy is basically new)
do you use the stock shim on the gear side of the diff? when I do so the gears are quite tight, there is no play so should I rather put it on the non-crown side?
I did some research too about the shim that some use behind the pinion. Some use 0,1mm, others 0.2mm, some don't even use any.. what did you do?
last question: should there be any play between the pinion bearing and driveshaft before tightening the screw to fix the driveshaft on the pinion axle?
thanks!
just a little question about how to set the backlash on the diffs (buggy is basically new)
do you use the stock shim on the gear side of the diff? when I do so the gears are quite tight, there is no play so should I rather put it on the non-crown side?
I did some research too about the shim that some use behind the pinion. Some use 0,1mm, others 0.2mm, some don't even use any.. what did you do?
last question: should there be any play between the pinion bearing and driveshaft before tightening the screw to fix the driveshaft on the pinion axle?
thanks!
If the gear mesh is too loose insert a shim on the gear-side, if it is too tight use a shim on the other side.
It's hard to say exactly how much shims to use and varies depending on wear (and brand/type of gears). For the clutch bell to center diff I inserted one sheet of post-it note paper between the gears and tightened the engine and this was usually good. For the diffs I used the same method as a ball park setting. The play should be small but noticeable. If it 'feels' right it usually is.
Too much play ---> increased wear and there is a risk of the gears 'jumping' and causing stripped gears.
Too little play ---> increased drag and heat build-up and can result in totally stripped gears.
There are more ways to do this and everyone has their own trick (post them).
05-06-2014, 02:12 PM
thanks, this is what I ended with: 0.2mm shim behind the pinion (0,3mm was making the screw in the diff housing touch the pinion), 0.2mm shim on the diff on the opposite side of the crown and a sheet of paper between the bearing and driveshaft to set the longitudinal play
now it feels good, I tried to use two 0.1mm shim on each side of the diff for the mesh but didn't manage to put them both.. which is strange considering the stock shim actually is 0.2mm
hopefully it's ok, I would like to avoid messing these gears (happened to me last week on the XB9E because of a bearing failure)
now it feels good, I tried to use two 0.1mm shim on each side of the diff for the mesh but didn't manage to put them both.. which is strange considering the stock shim actually is 0.2mm
hopefully it's ok, I would like to avoid messing these gears (happened to me last week on the XB9E because of a bearing failure)
05-07-2014, 03:42 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
shamelss plug for a good RC video from an event in NZ a couple of weeks age
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyd_...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyd_...ature=youtu.be
05-07-2014, 06:03 PM
shamelss plug for a good RC video from an event in NZ a couple of weeks age
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyd_...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyd_...ature=youtu.be
05-07-2014, 06:15 PM
shamelss plug for a good RC video from an event in NZ a couple of weeks age
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyd_...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyd_...ature=youtu.be
