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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 04-23-2014, 08:59 PM
  #17146  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
You don't want IF347-138 in the front.
For the fronts you want IF347-128.

Then you want IF346-03 for shock membranes.

With that you can run Losi 40 to 45 front and 35 to 40 rear, depending on temperature.
Or in CST, of which Kyosho shock oil is spot on exactly correct (other brands are not), 550 to 700 front, 450 to 600 rear.
(If very warm you need the thick oil.)
Every setup I've seen uses the 1.3x8 both front and rear.
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Old 04-23-2014, 09:31 PM
  #17147  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
You DON'T want IF347-128 in the front.
For the fronts you want IF347-138.
There, fixed that for ya
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:27 PM
  #17148  
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Just because a bunch of people make the same mistake of running the 1.3x8 up front, when they should be running 1.2x8, doesn't make it the right thing to do.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:59 PM
  #17149  
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Originally Posted by yogii
I did not now that there is 2 different carriers. DO you have the different part numbers. Thank you for making it clearer. The dots on the bushings after looking at them a while look the same. I have look at my car at least 20 times at this. I think I have it correct.
If you're talking about the bushings that go in the hub carries, they don't have dots. Looking at the bushing from the front (the side that faces the front of the car) you have to look carefully to see see if the hole is exactly centered (0 degree bushing) or slightly off center (1 degree bushing). It's easier to see if you slide the hinge pin through it and you view the angle of the hinge pin.

Last edited by My ST-RR EVO; 04-24-2014 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:59 PM
  #17150  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Just because a bunch of people make the same mistake of running the 1.3x8 up front, when they should be running 1.2x8, doesn't make it the right thing to do.
Ok, I guess all the pros that drive for kyosho and all the local sponsored drivers are making the same mistake!
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Old 04-24-2014, 12:16 AM
  #17151  
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Originally Posted by Vinny Cancilla
Every setup I've seen uses the 1.3x8 both front and rear.
Originally Posted by Eivind E
Just because a bunch of people make the same mistake of running the 1.3x8 up front, when they should be running 1.2x8, doesn't make it the right thing to do.
I did some testing with the 1.2x8's a while back. What I noticed is that they get the front of the car turning in faster than the 1.3x8's in the hairpins, but the trade off was that they seemed to push a little after the apex. Just throwing them in on a pros set up might not be ideal, but if you get them to work with the rest of your set up on the right track they probably would work. As the JQ Guide says.. one change might be worse, two changes might be better. I gave up on those pistons mostly because I was too lazy to redevelop my setup around them. I might have a second look another time. A pro driver at our track does use Kyosho 1.2x8 front / 1.3x8 rear, but in a different car.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:15 AM
  #17152  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Just because a bunch of people make the same mistake of running the 1.3x8 up front, when they should be running 1.2x8, doesn't make it the right thing to do.
I believe it's always a good thing to think outside of the box and to experiment with different approaches to setups etc.

However, in this case, yogii is looking for some sound advice on how to get his initial setup on his car with proven, time-tested settings that will work well on almost every type of track. Once he establishes that, then it may be a better time to assist him with refinements such as your suggestions above.

I'd also like to add, the reason I came to Kyosho in the first place, was due to watching Sean Gaffney wheel his MP9 back in 2012. His car always looks like it's the best on the track by far, granted he could probably make a Traxxas look good too. That being said, you can definitely have faith in any setup he is endorsing.
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:39 AM
  #17153  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Just because a bunch of people make the same mistake of running the 1.3x8 up front, when they should be running 1.2x8, doesn't make it the right thing to do.
You can come back with that argument after you beat guys like Tebo/King with your so called "right" setup
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Old 04-24-2014, 10:52 AM
  #17154  
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Originally Posted by HH
...in this case, yogii is looking for some sound advice on how to get his initial setup on his car with proven, time-tested settings that will work well on almost every type of track. Once he establishes that, then it may be a better time to assist him with refinements such as your suggestions above.
HH hit the nail on the head. Just a matter of trying to guide a guy who hasn't had the car on the track yet to try the baseline setup that probably all of us tried at one point or another. And thanks for the kind words HH, I've worked hard to get my suspension to be butter.

I've tried the 1.2x8 pistons in the front, they're ok and can certainly be tuned to produce different handling characteristics on certain tracks that you may prefer over the 1.3x8s. It's not a matter of one being better than the other, it's whatever suits your feel and I'm fine with that. I do think the tuning window with the 1.3x8s is larger than the 1.2x8s, meaning they are less sensitive to oil/temp changes than the 1.2x8s. Which is also what makes the 1.3x8s so good - you can drop an MP9 with Codys 2010 worlds setup on basically any track and provided you choose the right tires you'll be on-pace or at least very close to it.
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Old 04-24-2014, 11:14 AM
  #17155  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
HH hit the nail on the head. Just a matter of trying to guide a guy who hasn't had the car on the track yet to try the baseline setup that probably all of us tried at one point or another. And thanks for the kind words HH, I've worked hard to get my suspension to be butter.

I've tried the 1.2x8 pistons in the front, they're ok and can certainly be tuned to produce different handling characteristics on certain tracks that you may prefer over the 1.3x8s. It's not a matter of one being better than the other, it's whatever suits your feel and I'm fine with that. I do think the tuning window with the 1.3x8s is larger than the 1.2x8s, meaning they are less sensitive to oil/temp changes than the 1.2x8s. Which is also what makes the 1.3x8s so good - you can drop an MP9 with Codys 2010 worlds setup on basically any track and provided you choose the right tires you'll be on-pace or at least very close to it.
Bingo Sean!
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:19 AM
  #17156  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
Just because a bunch of people make the same mistake of running the 1.3x8 up front, when they should be running 1.2x8, doesn't make it the right thing to do.
Love this guy Eivind , pure forum gold.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/search.p...rchid=18289829
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:46 AM
  #17157  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
You don't want IF347-138 in the front.
For the fronts you want IF347-128.

Then you want IF346-03 for shock membranes.

With that you can run Losi 40 to 45 front and 35 to 40 rear, depending on temperature.
Or in CST, of which Kyosho shock oil is spot on exactly correct (other brands are not), 550 to 700 front, 450 to 600 rear.
(If very warm you need the thick oil.)
I'm not sure I would go that way, the holes are smaller. Adding thinker oil would only make my car bounce right off the ruff tureen. I have ran 350-400 winter 400-450 summer max. That was with different car, but I found the thinner the oil the faster the coils respond to tureen. With the stock TKI3 coil springs that Kyosho puts out not sure I want to try that. Only if someone game me the stuff to try. Sorry no offense to you.
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:40 PM
  #17158  
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I've had 2 front shock towers slightly bend on me, including the Hard Front Shock Stay [KYOIF477]
Can anyone tell me if the Fioroni Kyosho MP9 Ergal Front Shock Tower is any better?

Cheers

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Old 04-25-2014, 02:07 PM
  #17159  
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Originally Posted by Hellbound
I've had 2 front shock towers slightly bend on me, including the Hard Front Shock Stay [KYOIF477]
Can anyone tell me if the Fioroni Kyosho MP9 Ergal Front Shock Tower is any better?

Cheers

I had mine bend slightly too, I just straightened it out. Slightly bent isn't going to really affect performance that much, if any..

Last edited by Vinny Cancilla; 04-25-2014 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:26 PM
  #17160  
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Yep i have bent it back as best as possible, but just wondering what the Fioroni towers are like.
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