1LikesInferno MP9 thread
10-10-2016, 02:30 PM - Wikipost
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06-06-2013, 03:11 PM
I have 3 chassis. 2 are the darker colour and one is the light color. Wat is the difference? Is it just the colour of anodize? I'm currently running the darker coloured chassis because it has the least amount of wear. Also wen is it time to stop running a worn chassis?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
06-06-2013, 05:46 PM
I have 3 chassis. 2 are the darker colour and one is the light color. Wat is the difference? Is it just the colour of anodize? I'm currently running the darker coloured chassis because it has the least amount of wear. Also wen is it time to stop running a worn chassis?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
Just my 2 cents..
06-07-2013, 12:13 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
I have 3 chassis. 2 are the darker colour and one is the light color. Wat is the difference? Is it just the colour of anodize? I'm currently running the darker coloured chassis because it has the least amount of wear. Also wen is it time to stop running a worn chassis?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
The lighter chassis is hard annodised which comes as standard when you order a replacement chassis, the darker ones are not available except on Ebay.
They wont break from being worn too thin, I run mine until I can shave with the rear edge
06-07-2013, 01:25 AM
Does anyone have first hand knowledge (Pit Pop or Sean maybe) of what pipe / header combo Cody King is running on his TKI3 when its GO time? Or what tracks he runs what pipes around Southern California?
06-07-2013, 04:54 AM
Tech Initiate
Shocks
Hey guys, i need a little advice please. I bought a Spec A a couple of weeks ago and i have been able to do some good work with it right out of the box. The setup works great for where i have been running but i wanted to try the white 1.3/8 hole pistons. I got them in and installed. I was just wandering what would be a good base line for oils. I made a guess and went with 42.5 front and 30 rear. Rear feels good and has a good bit of pack, but the front seems a little soft even with 42.5. Again the car has the stock setup, just changed piston and was able (amazingly) to get a set of rear orange springs. Also would there be any necessary changes that need to be made to work properly with this shock setup? Track is loose, moderately rough, no huge jumps and temps are running around 80 degrees. It maybe good but i was just trying to get as much insight as possible before Saturday morning! Thanks in advance
06-07-2013, 06:00 AM
Hey guys, i need a little advice please. I bought a Spec A a couple of weeks ago and i have been able to do some good work with it right out of the box. The setup works great for where i have been running but i wanted to try the white 1.3/8 hole pistons. I got them in and installed. I was just wandering what would be a good base line for oils. I made a guess and went with 42.5 front and 30 rear. Rear feels good and has a good bit of pack, but the front seems a little soft even with 42.5. Again the car has the stock setup, just changed piston and was able (amazingly) to get a set of rear orange springs. Also would there be any necessary changes that need to be made to work properly with this shock setup? Track is loose, moderately rough, no huge jumps and temps are running around 80 degrees. It maybe good but i was just trying to get as much insight as possible before Saturday morning! Thanks in advance
06-07-2013, 06:19 AM
Tech Initiate
Thanks so much for the info, are you fairly close to the stock setup in other aspects? Reason i ask is im a little afraid of taking away steering by making the front stiffer. I notice that most of the pros setups they take a lot of castor out, i would assume for more steering, im still stock as far as kickup and castor goes.
06-07-2013, 08:03 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
help please
Im having an issue with my rear shocks. When I'm trying to set my rebound I cannot get that shaft to go all the way up without the piston nut banging into the bladder. I've inpected the bladders theres no damage to them and the bleed holes arent clogged. I'm not over filling them either. What could be the cause of this?
06-07-2013, 08:23 AM
The darker one I'm running now has a heap of life left in it and I'm also running the DE racing skid plates front and rear to help slow down the wear and tear.
I'm glad to hear I can run them right down. I now have 2 spare chassis that I can still get some use out of.
I've had another look at the clutchbell wear mark tonight while swapping engines (running in the spec2 tomorrow)
and it is still looking fine to me. I think I will end up changing the chassis before any drilling of holes will be necessary.
06-07-2013, 08:32 AM
Im having an issue with my rear shocks. When I'm trying to set my rebound I cannot get that shaft to go all the way up without the piston nut banging into the bladder. I've inpected the bladders theres no damage to them and the bleed holes arent clogged. I'm not over filling them either. What could be the cause of this?
06-07-2013, 08:52 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
06-07-2013, 09:19 AM
Thanks so much for the info, are you fairly close to the stock setup in other aspects? Reason i ask is im a little afraid of taking away steering by making the front stiffer. I notice that most of the pros setups they take a lot of castor out, i would assume for more steering, im still stock as far as kickup and castor goes.
06-07-2013, 09:24 AM
rear shock shafts
Im having an issue with my rear shocks. When I'm trying to set my rebound I cannot get that shaft to go all the way up without the piston nut banging into the bladder. I've inpected the bladders theres no damage to them and the bleed holes arent clogged. I'm not over filling them either. What could be the cause of this?
If you have rebuilt them with some fresh rear shock shafts at some point you may have the IF337 66mm rear shafts installed which is what most shops (including A-Main) have incorrectly listed as the replacements for the TKI3 rear shafts.
The stock TKI3 rear shock shafts are IFW149-02 and 63mm long for the medium length rear shocks.
The 66mm rear shafts are for the long rear shocks but they can still be used if you install a limiter and/or crank the shock ends on all the way.
06-07-2013, 09:50 AM
I have 3 chassis. 2 are the darker colour and one is the light color. Wat is the difference? Is it just the colour of anodize? I'm currently running the darker coloured chassis because it has the least amount of wear. Also wen is it time to stop running a worn chassis?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
Do the front and rear eventually break wen there is excessive wear?
If that is what you find then, as you might expect, the 3mm chassis will have slightly more flex than the 3.18mm chassis.
The kit comes with the 3mm bronze anodized chassis and the Kyosho replacement chassis are the 3.18mm golden anodized versions.
BTW.. the lighter golden color anodizing is much more durable than the bronze ano that is on the kit chassis. Although it has zero effect on performance.
06-07-2013, 10:24 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
I measured my shock shafts and they are 66mm long. I bought the car used so I wasn't aware of this. Whats head scratching is I don't even have the plastic ends on and it the nut still pushes up against the bladder...Any suggestions??