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Inferno MP9 thread

Inferno MP9 thread

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R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 07-13-2013, 08:58 PM
  #14911  
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Originally Posted by Big Daddy05 View Post
Hey everyone,
New to the K Car and I am hoping for some help

My car seems to be pushing on power. I am essentially running Cody Kings set up from Sidewinder in 2010 with the following Shocks 45/30 and diffs 5/5/3. light blue springs with AKA city blocks

Any thoughts on quick changes I can make, big race tomorrow.
If you are happy with everything but on power steering, going up to 7k in the front will help with on power steering with out changing too much else about the way the car handles.
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Daddy05 View Post
Hey everyone,
New to the K Car and I am hoping for some help

My car seems to be pushing on power. I am essentially running Cody Kings set up from Sidewinder in 2010 with the following Shocks 45/30 and diffs 5/5/3. light blue springs with AKA city blocks

Any thoughts on quick changes I can make, big race tomorrow.
Something easy would to be shorten the wheel base. The buggy seems to react very good to wheel base adjustment.
But what kind of track are u racing on???? Maybe or tire choice might be off???
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:43 PM
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Anybody, experiment with swapping the front and rear wheel hex's? Would the narrow hex give me more steering in the front and the normal hex give the rear more stability?
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by freefallmarine View Post
Anybody, experiment with swapping the front and rear wheel hex's? Would the narrow hex give me more steering in the front and the normal hex give the rear more stability?
Haven't tried it on the mp9, but yes on both questions��
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:25 AM
  #14915  
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Originally Posted by freefallmarine View Post
Anybody, experiment with swapping the front and rear wheel hex's? Would the narrow hex give me more steering in the front and the normal hex give the rear more stability?
You'll get less rear traction and more front traction.

If what you want is more agressive steering which will also result in less grippy rear, just move the rear upper link arm one notch or two notches up on the shock tower, and move the front upper arm forward using the spacers on the inner hinge pin.
Also you can move the ackerman position of the steering linkage forward, that will give you more initial steering.

These things will give more initial steering and more rotation. Usually for high grip tracks.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:32 AM
  #14916  
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Originally Posted by H0LESH0T View Post
Converting a MP9 TKI to brushless is expensive if you are buying everything new. The Kyosho Store has the new MP9E TKI in stock but only 1 left.
Absolute Hobbyz and probably a few other stores still have the 1st MP9E on hand. They list them on ebay for $739 but on their site I think they are around $700 but would be better off holding off and waiting for the MP9E TKI to arrive in stores in America. There is a Kyosho MP9E Thread in the electric offroad section.
Here is a shot of my MP9E from a few hours ago.

Thanks for this. The new buggy is hitting the shops in the UK at the end of the month, so I may as well wait.

Nice body shell btw.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:37 AM
  #14917  
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according to JQ the guide:

"The rear link I find, is more critical to get right than the front. When trying different rear link locations, and you get it spot on, it feels like the car does everything better. The rear link will mainly determine the amount of traction the car has, and how it slides when cornering.

Lowering the link on the tower, will give the car more steering, as the rear will start sliding more in corners as you turn. It will also square up better when accelerating out of corners. Raising the link on the tower will add traction and reduce steering.

Lowering the complete link gives more traction, but the car seems to maintain more steering, than when lengthening the link.

In general, a long rear link makes the car more stable, have less steering, and be more predictable and easy to drive. A short link gives more steering, and initially the car can feel like it has more traction, but it will lose traction suddenly, instead of a predictable way.

Again, the further in the link is on the tower, the more stable and consistent the car feels, the further out it is, the more non-liner and and inconsistent it feels. The car will roll less and have less overall traction.

A longer link on the hub or tower will give more traction, and less steering, the car will be more stable. A shorter link will give more steering, specially into and mid corner, and the car will square up and accelerate straight better."
in general, raising the link is less steering more traction. lowering the link increases steering and increases rotation and less traction.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:40 AM
  #14918  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E View Post
You'll get less rear traction and more front traction.

If what you want is more agressive steering which will also result in less grippy rear, just move the rear upper link arm one notch or two notches up on the shock tower, and move the front upper arm forward using the spacers on the inner hinge pin.
Also you can move the ackerman position of the steering linkage forward, that will give you more initial steering.

These things will give more initial steering and more rotation. Usually for high grip tracks.
..., this isnt a mugen, you cant adjust the top upper arm that way.

you need to adjust it by the inserts in the front C-hubs.

Please make sure your info is right before posting...
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:43 AM
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Has anybody tried a BCE Chassis on there MP9 or any aftermarket chassis in general?
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:45 AM
  #14920  
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Originally Posted by CBeeler46 View Post
Has anybody tried a BCE Chassis on there MP9 or any aftermarket chassis in general?
Dylan R from Amain Hobbies uses a BCE chassis.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:48 AM
  #14921  
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Originally Posted by freefallmarine View Post
Anybody, experiment with swapping the front and rear wheel hex's? Would the narrow hex give me more steering in the front and the normal hex give the rear more stability?
If the track grip is low or very dusty I will run the Narrow Hex all round with short wheelbase, this will make the car very edgy but if you deal with that amount of grip its super dialled
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:03 AM
  #14922  
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Originally Posted by LosiPRRACER View Post
according to JQ the guide:



in general, raising the link is less steering more traction. lowering the link increases steering and increases rotation and less traction.
that might work with the JQ but my experience of the MP9 is opposite, the lower the rear camber link is in the tower the more locked in the rear becomes, the higher takes away grip, I dont use the longer link in fact so far never found the need, the shorter link does everything I need doesn't mean its not worth trying the long link though, also moving the whole link across makes the car go through the bumps a bit better
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:07 AM
  #14923  
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coach, Paul king also told me: for more rear traction RAISE the link - will lessen steering tho.

Think i'll listen to the World champs pitdad

But i would think that if using the orange rear/yellow springs that you would be better off to run a lower hole.(Which is what im doing)

rear traction is something i dont lack.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:34 AM
  #14924  
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Originally Posted by LosiPRRACER View Post
coach, Paul king also told me: for more rear traction RAISE the link - will lessen steering tho.

Think i'll listen to the World champs pitdad

But i would think that if using the orange rear/yellow springs that you would be better off to run a lower hole.(Which is what im doing)

rear traction is something i dont lack.
only reason I say that is at kyosho masters in France it was high grip to stop the car rolling in the corners we went up on the tower, admittedly we run orange springs almost all the time
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Old 07-16-2013, 06:53 AM
  #14925  
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Originally Posted by LosiPRRACER View Post
..., this isnt a mugen, you cant adjust the top upper arm that way.

you need to adjust it by the inserts in the front C-hubs.

Please make sure your info is right before posting...
+1. Your johnny on the spot.
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