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Inferno MP9 thread

Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 07-01-2013, 03:18 PM
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Questions??

Can I use the 93mm HD driveshafts on the front of my MP9 Tki3?
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by David Home View Post
Can I use the 93mm HD driveshafts on the front of my MP9 Tki3?
Yes
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
I want to order the alum hubs today. Which have better results. The 16 deg or the std alum front c hubs?

If anyone has one i can buy, let me know.

Thx
16 degree hubs have adjustable inserts to increase or decrease castor. I have them. Increased castor increases steering response and makes bumpy sections easier to handle. But things can get squirrelly at high speeds on straights, especially if the front wheels are unloaded during acceleration.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77 View Post
Yes
Thanks
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by banana rt View Post
plastic question here guys
any tips for making wing mount more durable?
when u guys usually replace the bulkhead?
Very good question that one and something I have been thinking about quite a bit.
Don't get me wrong, I am quite happy with the way it is because I feel confident that there will be no problems with breaking bulkheads. Sure the wing mounts get out of shape a little after some nice wrecks but they don't seem to be a problem. Having said this I have experienced a couple of breakages but only after a lot of use.
The mount set is cheap and I have a couple of sets in my pitbag, just make sure to have a new set on for big races. They certainly wont break in a hour final as it takes much more use than that for the mount to fail completely.

Same goes for the bumper, I always have a spare on hand and when it has worn down to chassis level I fit a new one. It usually takes 1/2 a gallon or so to get to the point of changing but the cost is slightly offset due to the chassis lasting longer on the front edge (although a little wear is nice) and there is no need for a front skid plate.

And at the end of the day it's always nice to have some fresh plastic shining on your ride.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MajorKong View Post
16 degree hubs have adjustable inserts to increase or decrease castor. I have them. Increased castor increases steering response and makes bumpy sections easier to handle. But things can get squirrelly at high speeds on straights, especially if the front wheels are unloaded during acceleration.
Thx! I end up ordering the stock degree in alum.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
Thx! I end up ordering the stock degree in alum.
These also can be adjusted the same as stock ones, generally I use the +1 setting as I feel the car is more stable without taking away too much steering. If it's a tight track with only moderate grip then 0 setting might be a good option. I am not aware of anyone using the -1 setting.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by smelly62 View Post
These also can be adjusted the same as stock ones, generally I use the +1 setting as I feel the car is more stable without taking away too much steering. If it's a tight track with only moderate grip then 0 setting might be a good option. I am not aware of anyone using the -1 setting.
With 0 insert, are the hubs 12 degs?
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:20 AM
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Pretty sure it's 13deg at 0 setting.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by smelly62 View Post
Pretty sure it's 13deg at 0 setting.
Ok thx
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by lewis4x4 View Post
I looked at Tebo's buggy several times and I know he took the lid off for many people. He is not running anything that you or I can't get. He is very quite and reserved but is truly a great person and mort important, not a fake...
Agreed brian he is one of the coolest dudes i met to date in rc period,very nice and helpful,and his car is just a regular tki3 not some hacked up prototype with others brands parts all over it
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kman16jr View Post
Agreed brian he is one of the coolest dudes i met to date in rc period,very nice and helpful,and his car is just a regular tki3 not some hacked up prototype with others brands parts all over it
Hey you cant post on here until you have one Kevin.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:46 PM
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So I just got done with my build on my TKI3. I went with 5,5,3 in the diffs. When I set the car down to see if it was free it would roll but soon as you pick it up the wheels stop. So where did I go wrong I'm not sure if the brakes are to tight or if I should have left the shims out? Someone point me in the right direction please!
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:47 PM
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I took the center diff out and it rolls freely. Any suggestions?
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:59 PM
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1. Leave roughly a finger nail space between brake rotor and pads.
2. Run some fuel through it and she will free up
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