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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 06-09-2013, 08:59 PM
  #14521  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
I have two races on my TKI3 at the moment, plus practice runs, so I'd say about two and a half gallons. There is a triangular wear pattern on the chassis under the clutchbell, right where the edge of the clutchbell is. I am definately going to be drilling the hole, as it is absolutely rubbing. Also you need to consider that if the chassis flexes and your clutchbell flops around after being jigged on the chassis you can break the spur gear.

But I never have had a flameout, except once when another car landed on top of mine.
Maybe with the hole there is more of a chance for broken spur teeth due to the bell being able to flex farther away from the spur?
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:43 PM
  #14522  
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Originally Posted by JJRC
Someone else had mentioned the rear camber link as well. I have so much off throttle steering as it is not sure I would go with the sway bar but doesn't hurt to try it. I debated about the blue springs. Should have tried them.




I did lower the rear a hair on advice from someone. Didn't change the front though.



I was running Med Impacts, not sure I would change them.


I'll try some of these changes individually next time to see how it feels. I got there late and only had a few minutes literally of practice I had a bad first heat which didn't tell me anything. The second heat was better but I didn't want to change too much before the main.

Thanks for the advice.

JJ
this might seem dumb, but check all of ur hinge pins, mounts for bent pins or anything that could bind up the front and rear arms.
Paul King told me that, and every little thing I did changed ride height and camber. If ur buggy squeakswhen up push down on it, it is binding. Like a build up of dirt in the hinge pin bole in the arms.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:23 AM
  #14523  
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Had a great run today at the queens birthday cup held at lrrcc
Qualifying 1 was a bit of a mess but ended up 9th overall
Qualifying 2 was much better ended up 5th overall
Qualifying 3 destroyed a clutch on lap 1
Qualified 9th for the main
Then the heavens opened and rain delayed play
Car was really dialed got a sweet setup and have no dought we could have had a top 5 start for the amain if we did not break a clutch in q3
Thanks to kyosho great car
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:35 AM
  #14524  
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Hey guys,

Last weekend I ruined an engine during a race at an extremely dry dusty sand track. There were small bits of mud on the ports of the cylinder. The rest of the engine seemes quite clean so it wasn't a big cloud that entered. Also the inner air filter was still nice and clean.
When I opened the fuel filter there were quite some noticeable particles in there. As the filter element itself consists of a metal gauze it could let the smallest particles of dust continue its way to the engine which I'm afraid has happened during the race. Now as there's quite some room in that filter do some people put a little piece of cloth or a piece of cotton pad in there to filter out the really small stuff? I googled quite a bit but I only found info about people trying to gain runtime by adding a filter
Whats your experience and opinion about this?

BTW the track was extremely nasty
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:58 AM
  #14525  
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Originally Posted by Ivar
Hey guys,

Last weekend I ruined an engine during a race at an extremely dry dusty sand track. There were small bits of mud on the ports of the cylinder. The rest of the engine seemes quite clean so it wasn't a big cloud that entered. Also the inner air filter was still nice and clean.
When I opened the fuel filter there were quite some noticeable particles in there. As the filter element itself consists of a metal gauze it could let the smallest particles of dust continue its way to the engine which I'm afraid has happened during the race. Now as there's quite some room in that filter do some people put a little piece of cloth or a piece of cotton pad in there to filter out the really small stuff? I googled quite a bit but I only found info about people trying to gain runtime by adding a filter
Whats your experience and opinion about this?

BTW the track was extremely nasty
It is possible that you're pulling dirt/dust through the front bearing. What engine and fuel are you running? Did you pull the front bearing?
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:58 AM
  #14526  
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Check your air filter and make sure it's sealed against the filter housing all the way around I use pre-oiled filters but always put extra oil around the edges of the filter so it seals better against the filter housing
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:30 PM
  #14527  
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Paul King coverd this in a VRC mag issue, use that white grease around the end of each foam on dusty tracks and this will greatly increase engine life.

if your filter housing is flexing around when your driving and hitting stuff(lol) the foam can move away from the edge an let dust in, check your crank shaft for marks around the intake, also double check you headbolts are tight(if they are loose you will suck crap through it.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:32 PM
  #14528  
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When its extremely dusty i use vet rap... Never have tunning issues with it ... Also put grease on the side of the filter to seal it better... Next thing to check is the engine... Check the front bearing
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:23 PM
  #14529  
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Did everyone miss where he said the fuel filter had particles in it? That means it is coming from his tank and not the front bearing or air filters.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:32 PM
  #14530  
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Thanks for your replies!
The engine is a precirotate 21bs. With the second cylinder set I replaced the bearings with tko ceramics. The front bearing has a seal both on the in and outside. Havent taken the bearing out yet but the front bearing is always dry and nicely clean on the outside. The air filter might have opened at the sides as i didnt put on any extra grease so thats something i learned . There wasnt any noticeable filth in there though. Blaming the fuel filter was rubbish? There was quite some stuff in there. As there was a wind of dust all day and the tank cap got extremely dirty it was inevitable getting dust in there during pitting. Btw i run RB fuel 25%. Usually i drive on a very nice clean astroturf track The head screws were tight. The dirt didnt even make it top as the piston got stuck halfway. It made my conrod break and i had to hammer it down to get it out. The backplate, carb neck and retainers are sealed properly.

Last edited by Ivar; 06-10-2013 at 03:35 PM. Reason: added some info
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:59 PM
  #14531  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Did everyone miss where he said the fuel filter had particles in it? That means it is coming from his tank and not the front bearing or air filters.
This man is correct.
If there's gunk in the fuel filter, stuff is coming from the tank.
Most people do not realize stuff will pass through the filter quite easily.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:41 PM
  #14532  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
This man is correct.
If there's gunk in the fuel filter, stuff is coming from the tank.
Most people do not realize stuff will pass through the filter quite easily.
Is it an option to put a piece of cotton pad in there? Or will it restrict the flow too much and cause the engine to run lean? I think I'll just try with an old engine and see if the tune will be affected.

Or a little saver and easier the small inner piece of the air filter that you used to throw away. Cut the right size obviously...

Last edited by Ivar; 06-10-2013 at 11:43 PM. Reason: added option
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Old 06-11-2013, 12:42 AM
  #14533  
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Originally Posted by Ivar
Is it an option to put a piece of cotton pad in there? Or will it restrict the flow too much and cause the engine to run lean? I think I'll just try with an old engine and see if the tune will be affected.

Or a little saver and easier the small inner piece of the air filter that you used to throw away. Cut the right size obviously...
Or just thoroughly clean out ur fuel tank and bottle.
Im led to believe the actual fuel filter is inside the bottom of the tank itself and the filter ur talking about is mainly to reduce air in the fuel line before it enters the engine during roll overs...but I could be wrong?
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:51 AM
  #14534  
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Originally Posted by Tyson72
Or just thoroughly clean out ur fuel tank and bottle.
Im led to believe the actual fuel filter is inside the bottom of the tank itself and the filter ur talking about is mainly to reduce air in the fuel line before it enters the engine during roll overs...but I could be wrong?
+1 Tyson, although the screen in the filter is quite fine and will also filter the fuel.

I have never seen any grit in the fuel filter so the tank filter is doing a good job.

None of the pros, and me for that matter, think there is a problem with the MP9 fuel system.

Any clay fines or particles that make it past the two filters may cause slightly accelerated wear but it certainly wont ruin a engine in ten let alone one race day.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:57 AM
  #14535  
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I know there has been some talk about anodizing on here and while i agree it dosent last long, it dosent bother me i like the car too much! But after several hours of run time my shock bodies looked a little rough. I thought i would come up with some kind of a protective skin for them. So i found this roll of sticky back "carbon fiber". Anyway this is what i came up with, you guys may think its ridiculous, and im not one to put thing on my cars just for looks but this has a bit of function, protects the shock bodies and can easily be replaced. Turned out kinda cool, and by the way animal balloons are by far the best shock boots!

Before:


After:

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