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Inferno MP9 thread

Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 06-07-2013, 11:26 AM
  #14506  
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66 are to long you need the 63 , what HHH said
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO View Post
Does anyone have first hand knowledge (Pit Pop or Sean maybe) of what pipe / header combo Cody King is running on his TKI3 when its GO time? Or what tracks he runs what pipes around Southern California?
Sorry, I don't bud, but I can ask him this weekend and let you know.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:13 PM
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Cody runs the 2104 with xs head pipe at revelation raceway
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HH View Post
Are you running the rear shock shafts that came with the kit?

If you have rebuilt them with some fresh rear shock shafts at some point you may have the IF337 66mm rear shafts installed which is what most shops (including A-Main) have incorrectly listed as the replacements for the TKI3 rear shafts.

The stock TKI3 rear shock shafts are IFW149-02 and 63mm long for the medium length rear shocks.

The 66mm rear shafts are for the long rear shocks but they can still be used if you install a limiter and/or crank the shock ends on all the way.
Sonofa! I just got the 66mm shafts from A-Main today. Guess I should check the numbers before ordering.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyson72 View Post
Cool thanks for the info
The darker one I'm running now has a heap of life left in it and I'm also running the DE racing skid plates front and rear to help slow down the wear and tear.
I'm glad to hear I can run them right down. I now have 2 spare chassis that I can still get some use out of.
I've had another look at the clutchbell wear mark tonight while swapping engines (running in the spec2 tomorrow) and it is still looking fine to me. I think I will end up changing the chassis before any drilling of holes will be necessary.
You'll love the Spec 2 and yep I don't feel the hole is entirely needed but more of the pro's are doing it so maybe they have had unexplained flameouts and are just clutching at straws or there is something to it.
Personally I haven't observed any issues, flameouts, bent engine mount plates, bent cranks, damaged bell or bearings or whatever else others might perceive as a problem.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me View Post
Sorry, I don't bud, but I can ask him this weekend and let you know.
Thank you sir, please do.

Originally Posted by Kiel328 View Post
Cody runs the 2104 with xs head pipe at revelation raceway
Thanks Kiel!
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by smelly62 View Post
You'll love the Spec 2 and yep I don't feel the hole is entirely needed but more of the pro's are doing it so maybe they have had unexplained flameouts and are just clutching at straws or there is something to it.
Personally I haven't observed any issues, flameouts, bent engine mount plates, bent cranks, damaged bell or bearings or whatever else others might perceive as a problem.
I have two races on my TKI3 at the moment, plus practice runs, so I'd say about two and a half gallons. There is a triangular wear pattern on the chassis under the clutchbell, right where the edge of the clutchbell is. I am definately going to be drilling the hole, as it is absolutely rubbing. Also you need to consider that if the chassis flexes and your clutchbell flops around after being jigged on the chassis you can break the spur gear.

But I never have had a flameout, except once when another car landed on top of mine.
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Old 06-08-2013, 01:17 AM
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO View Post
Thank you sir, please do.



Thanks Kiel!
No problem!
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:56 AM
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Anyone have an MP9 TKI tall tower they are willing to sell? PM me please.
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:50 PM
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:18 PM
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What's the best way to combat traction rollover. High grip track, wasn't blown out really. Surface wasn't that rough.

I was running -2 rear camber and increased it a bit to -3 then just watched my cornering a bit but just wondering what else I could do.

Running Orange rear/blue front springs and 32.5/45 rear/front oil.

Thanks,
JJ
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JJRC View Post
What's the best way to combat traction rollover. High grip track, wasn't blown out really. Surface wasn't that rough.

I was running -2 rear camber and increased it a bit to -3 then just watched my cornering a bit but just wondering what else I could do.

Running Orange rear/blue front springs and 32.5/45 rear/front oil.

Thanks,
JJ
Hi mate
Try going to 3mm rear roll bar leave the 2.3 front
Put the blue springs back on the rear.
Try lifting the rear camber link to top inside on the shock tower and top outside on the rear hub.
Seems the car is to soft resulting in traction roll
Just my 10 cents worth as this has taken my traction rolling away
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JJRC View Post
What's the best way to combat traction rollover. High grip track, wasn't blown out really. Surface wasn't that rough.

I was running -2 rear camber and increased it a bit to -3 then just watched my cornering a bit but just wondering what else I could do.

Running Orange rear/blue front springs and 32.5/45 rear/front oil.

Thanks,
JJ
Lower your ride heights. I know it will be softer, but it works.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:38 PM
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Harder compound tires as well
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sodi View Post
Hi mate
Try going to 3mm rear roll bar leave the 2.3 front
Put the blue springs back on the rear.
Try lifting the rear camber link to top inside on the shock tower and top outside on the rear hub.
Seems the car is to soft resulting in traction roll
Just my 10 cents worth as this has taken my traction rolling away
Someone else had mentioned the rear camber link as well. I have so much off throttle steering as it is not sure I would go with the sway bar but doesn't hurt to try it. I debated about the blue springs. Should have tried them.


Originally Posted by jmackani View Post
Lower your ride heights. I know it will be softer, but it works.
I did lower the rear a hair on advice from someone. Didn't change the front though.

Originally Posted by Drip View Post
Harder compound tires as well
I was running Med Impacts, not sure I would change them.


I'll try some of these changes individually next time to see how it feels. I got there late and only had a few minutes literally of practice I had a bad first heat which didn't tell me anything. The second heat was better but I didn't want to change too much before the main.

Thanks for the advice.

JJ
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