Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Inferno MP9 thread >

Inferno MP9 thread

Like Tree1Likes

Inferno MP9 thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

Print Wikipost

Old 05-10-2013, 02:27 PM
  #14221  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
H0LESH0T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 840
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by houston
I use these , love em
Did you still use the Kyosho blue bushings over the bearing?
H0LESH0T is offline  
Old 05-10-2013, 06:36 PM
  #14222  
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Perth, West Australia.
Posts: 1,246
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by H0LESH0T
Did you still use the Kyosho blue bushings over the bearing?
Hi, blue bushings are not used in these hub carriers.

The King HeadZ ones are modeled after the early MP9 carriers. The current carriers have the 4 holes on top and have the 2mm offset and it is one of the extra holes that is mostly used by the vast majority of MP9 drivers today so for this reason King Headz carriers might not be the best choice.

Kyosho also do a earlier rear hub carrier that is not 2mm offset and it still has the four holes in the upper section and it's cheaper. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...2658/n/Kyosho-
These ones also dont take the blue plastic inserts.

Last edited by smelly62; 05-10-2013 at 06:50 PM.
smelly62 is offline  
Old 05-10-2013, 06:56 PM
  #14223  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
H0LESH0T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 840
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by smelly62
Hi, blue bushings are not used in these hub carriers.

The King HeadZ ones are modeled after the early MP9 carriers. The current carriers have the 4 holes on top and have the 2mm offset and it is one of the extra holes that is mostly used by the vast majority of MP9 drivers today so for this reason King Headz carriers might not be the best choice.

Kyosho also do a earlier rear hub carrier that is not 2mm offset and it still has the four holes in the upper section and it's cheaper. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...2658/n/Kyosho-
These ones also dont take the blue plastic inserts.
Ok, thanks. Want black ones for more of a stealth look. Pitty Fioroni only make parts in blue. Could understand that with the MP7.5. I notice on setups from Cody and Jared that they use the 2mm offset ones. Still deciding on what to do. Thanks.
H0LESH0T is offline  
Old 05-10-2013, 10:41 PM
  #14224  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
I tried gap and no gap on the pinion shaft. I didn't notice a difference either way in terms of performance or crash durability or binding. I settled on no gap and I've heard the same from a few others. I really don't know the reason for the gap, but I didn't like having the gap because that means the pinion potentially could randomly walk in and out of the diff and that just doesn't seem right IMHO. You may also be interested in the discussion on diffs on this thread dated 04-11-2013, 09:20 PM. If you already built it the way you described, it'll work out fine.
Not sure if you've tried it with exactly zero gap because the centre driveshaft binds quite severely with zero gap. I've tried this on well over a dozen different bulkheads (even more than a dozen, actually, from the original, through to the "C" variant), using various brands of bearings, including the kit bearings, rubber sealed, non-genuine metal shielded, etc., and with all of them, every time I try with zero gap the uni binds very noticeably. I test this by spinning the uni and pinion in the bulkhead, in my hand (as in, not mounted in the car) and with zero gap the uni stops spinning almost straight away and with just the tiniest, slightest gap it spins for ages. I have to say though, I usually spend a good few minutes on each pinion, getting the gap exactly right, not too far that there is room for movement, but not too little that the uni starts to bind.

That's the reason the manual says to leave a gap. If the gap is as small as the manual suggests (not that I've ever actually tried to insert 2 pages of the manual in there to set the gap, HAHA) then there's no possibility of the pinion moving in or out.

Just some food for thought. As always though, everyone has their own methods for everything and this is just mine.
aaron125 is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 04:28 AM
  #14225  
Tech Addict
 
slow coach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: guernsey C.I.
Posts: 626
Default

Originally Posted by CaLaBeR
Just doing radio gear on my MP9 now. I had some questions on the diff building tips in the manual. Do you guys run the small gap on the pinion shaft like the manual suggests? Also when I was shimming the diffs I found running one shim on the cup side of the diff would give a nice mesh with a slight high spot. Is this the best method with the Kyosho diff's? I know the last car I came from it was suggested to run the mesh with notch and let it break in.
I run with the thinnest clutch shims normally 0.10 putting 1 each side of the bearings then run the center uni tight as you want it will spin nice and free after this little mod
slow coach is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 05:40 AM
  #14226  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
 
McD44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 785
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by H0LESH0T
Ok, thanks. Want black ones for more of a stealth look. Pitty Fioroni only make parts in blue. Could understand that with the MP7.5. I notice on setups from Cody and Jared that they use the 2mm offset ones. Still deciding on what to do. Thanks.

I like my stuff to look nice too but if there was a part available that would offer superior performance and/or longevity but only came in hot pink with "I'm a Sissy" etched into it I would run it.
McD44 is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 05:48 AM
  #14227  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
eper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: new milford, CT.
Posts: 2,622
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by McD44
I like my stuff to look nice too but if there was a part available that would offer superior performance and/or longevity but only came in hot pink with "I'm a Sissy" etched into it I would run it.
+1....
if the color isnt what you want strip it and have it refinished
eper is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 07:33 AM
  #14228  
Suspended
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Track
Posts: 431
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eper
+1....
if the color isnt what you want strip it and have it refinished
+1 that is what I would do ^^^
sc10guy is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 09:34 PM
  #14229  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 335
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Can you guys tell me what the best upgrades are for the tki3?
george919 is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 10:26 PM
  #14230  
Tech Master
iTrader: (29)
 
silvalis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,547
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Best upgrades are 1.3mm 8 hole white pistons and orange rear springs.
silvalis is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 10:37 PM
  #14231  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 335
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by silvalis
Best upgrades are 1.3mm 8 hole white pistons and orange rear springs.
aren't the white pistons stock though?
george919 is offline  
Old 05-11-2013, 11:49 PM
  #14232  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
H0LESH0T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 840
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eper
+1....
if the color isnt what you want strip it and have it refinished
When you say refinished do you mean powdercoated? Going to go with the IFW414 now. Didn't realise at 1st that they come stock on the TKI3.
H0LESH0T is offline  
Old 05-12-2013, 02:30 AM
  #14233  
Tech Master
iTrader: (29)
 
silvalis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,547
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by george919
aren't the white pistons stock though?
Stock are like 1.4x8 tapered/angled white on the front and 1.2x8 angled black on the back. Or something like that

Colour doesn't determine the hole size/angle/number.
silvalis is offline  
Old 05-12-2013, 02:30 AM
  #14234  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 411
Default

Originally Posted by george919
aren't the white pistons stock though?
Stock pistons are 1.3 taper hole front and 1.4 taper hole rear, both a tapered piston. The 1.3x8 pistons people fit are 1.3x8 straight hole, but still taper piston

Kit pistons (pictured fronts)
IFW408-138 (black)
IFW408-148 (white)


Option Pistons
IFW347-138
Chris-s is offline  
Old 05-12-2013, 03:44 AM
  #14235  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
corky_rc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 278
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by silvalis
Best upgrades are 1.3mm 8 hole white pistons and orange rear springs.
I'm considering getting these pistons also, but can anyone explain what the advantage is with these as apposed to the stock ones.
corky_rc is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.