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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-12-2013, 05:32 AM
  #12916  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
A little slop is normal and actually makes the car handle a little more forgiving.....when they are too tight the cars handle twitchy...
Neal what are you doing hanging in this neighborhood...lol! You have seen the light now?

Top of the morning to you. Want to chat about our new engine project some time this weekend.
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:18 AM
  #12917  
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I agree the slop feels weird...has a little more than most cars. But I've found the more you try to control it/make adjustments, the more it affects its Velcro traction and handling. It works for the K car...
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:52 AM
  #12918  
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Originally Posted by Fletch7276
I agree the slop feels weird...has a little more than most cars. But I've found the more you try to control it/make adjustments, the more it affects its Velcro traction and handling. It works for the K car...
What slop??? I'm confused! My year old tki2 has less play than a 1 day old losi. Most other cars out you can't even build with out reaming arms and dremeling plastic because parts are in a bind. Lord forbid you try, and set front toe and camber on them lol.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:28 PM
  #12919  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
A little slop is normal and actually makes the car handle a little more forgiving.....when they are too tight the cars handle twitchy...
Thanks for chiming in, Neal. I agree with you somewhat there, but wouldn't it be better to dumb things down through the radio if it was too sensitive? I see people at the track getting super anal about all their settings and then see the cars wheels wobbling back and forth in a turn because of the play in the wheel hub..haha This isn't the kind of play I'm talking about of course. Just want to add I am in no way saying the MP9 is "sloppy" so to speak. Maybe because it's so good I'm noticing every little thing. I would like to find some plastic tie rod ends that don't open up as fast, and try to remove most of the play in the plastic c-hub though. I notice a pretty big difference between left and right so I'm going to change the sloppy one and see if I can at least get them to match.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:35 PM
  #12920  
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Originally Posted by likeaboss
Looking for any pointers/suggestions on how to remove the slop from the front end. I've replaced the inner/outer tie rods and they seem to be sloppy already again after a couple hours. Is this normal? Is there another brand of outer/inner that will last longer? Also the front c-hubs seem to have more than normal play where the kingpin screws go..Do I just need to replace these more often, just live with it, or is there some other solution? Red army for life! haha Thanks!
Exactly where and what kind/in what direction is the slop you're experiencing? You mentioned that you've already replaced the inner and outer tie-rods, but is that what you're actually referring to or did you in fact replace the inner and outer hinge-pins, the inner being that upon which the shock arms rotate and the outer is the one which keeps the front hub carrier attached to the end of the suspension arm.

I'm quite confused as when someone says anything regarding tie-rods, this indicates that wherever on the vehicle said tie-rod is being used, by the very nature of the parts' name, something must obviously tie/screw/thread onto the ends of the tie rod(s). In the front end of the MP9, this has always been the 2 steering tie-rods and the 2 upper camber link tie-rods, more commonly known as turnbuckles, and technically, a much more3 correct terminology by which to describe these specific parts of the car. In fact, generally the word(s) 'tie rod' or 'tie rods' in in almost every case succeeded by the word 'end' or simply abreviated to just 'rod end' for things like the shock shaft ends, steering servo ends, camber link ends, etc.

So, just to clarify, are tou referring to the actual rod-ends, as defined above or are you referring to the inner and outer suspension hinge-pins as causing your problems?

Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob
hi guys..sorry if this is a stupid question. im sortoff on the fence wether or not to save up for one of these K cars so i have been reading this thread for a while now. i have come across various people stating that the anodizing on the shocks are not that good however...amogst other things..the drilling chassis holes being my biggest turnoff. i notice that the tki3 comes with those gold/bronze (from what i can tell from pics) colored shocks but i see the pics from team drivers..alot of them are running a shock thats seems more silver. is this from a older version or is it perhaps a hint of a new version coming out? or am i missing something? that raises my other concern hehe…i'd propablky be seriously p'd off if i just baught a tki3 and something new gets released since it is sortoff time about now…but then again…if they destroy the mbx7 at this next big event..i guess then they have no reason to try and fix something that aint broke right? i have raced a mugen before so obviously the new one interests me but i am by no means blind..i know the worlds track was unique..not taking anything away from Batlle…but id like to see them head to head on the usual tracks too i guess

these are the shocks like on Boots' car:


i might be wrong..but those dont really look like kit standard tki3 shocks to me do they? arent the tki3 shocks more the color of the anodizing on the rest of the car?
Hey Sideshow, haven't seen you around for a little while... what engine you running these days? You're gonna love driving and working on the MP9 and you can be just about 100% guaranteed that nothing whatsoever is going to break 'all of a sudden' or for no apparent reason. Since the MP9 is essentially unchanged going all the way back to the very 1st edition of the car which came out 3 or 4 years ago, I'm absoutely certain Kanai and the rest of the world's factory drivers would have found any and all weaknesses many, many moons ago - and certainly by know, one would hope. So with the MP9 by now, in it's 3rd incarnation/(minor) evolution (depending on how one counts, the TKI3 could be considered the 3rd MP9, 4th or even 5th MP9 since the TKI was initially released), one can pretty much accept that the car works well, nothing really breaks simply from normal use and if some part did, it would have been redesigned months (or years) ago.

Regarding the silver/shiny shocks you see on almost every single pro driver's car, they are identical to the brown anodized kit parts, except they have a clear or maybe even hard anodizing layer. And the main reason the pros run those shock bodies is because it simply isn't possible to purchase the brown/kit version shock bodies as a spare or replacement part. You will notice that with a decent number of parts on the car, the kit parts are dark brown and the identical spare part is a different colour (I think always a lighter shade, certainly never seen a darker replacement part than the identical part supplied with the kit).
Originally Posted by hookem34
Hard to tell from that picture, but those might be the option shock bodies. The anodizing does wear from the kit shocks, but there is absolutely no performance loss.

You will love K cars coming from Mugen. I know I did I will never jump to another chassis.
Really? They look extemely non-dark brown to me and obviously silver, which is made even more noticeable by the fact that the shock spring collars and shock caps are an almost identical colour to the main shock body. The brown kit parts make the shock spring collar and shock cap stick out like a sore thumb, so it's quite obvious, very quick and easy to notice.

Have a look at this pic - now you know what I mean about it being obvious if the bodies are brown or silver.
Attached Thumbnails Inferno MP9 thread-mp9-tki-2-wc-new-shock-tower.jpg   Inferno MP9 thread-mp9-tki-2-wc-rear-end-new-rear-shock-tower.jpg  
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:28 PM
  #12921  
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Originally Posted by nitroexpress
That wasn't what was reported on LiveRC. But then, a failed servo sounds better.
Well they were wrong

Originally Posted by aaron125
I'm guessing it would have to be the grub screws in the diff housing because nothing would "hold the bar up" and "drop freely" if tightening/loosening the grub screws in the outer ball-links.
yes thanks Aaron i though that would of been obvious as you have said only way to lock down the bar.

Originally Posted by hookem34
Right.

So the sway bar should not be able to move side to side in the diff housing retainer. Unless you want more roll.
no not necessarily you might overtighten the grub screw to stop the bar from moving side to side which could make the car feel tweaked, honestly try what i said I'm almost 100% certain that you will be happy with that method, back the grub screw off slowly and you will be able to set it more accurately as it will slowly release the bar then just make sure there are no tight spots through its range of motion job done
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Old 01-12-2013, 03:36 PM
  #12922  
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the lighter color bodies are the ones you get If you buy the shock kit seperately

dark ano that wears a lil faster are the ones that come in the kit
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:12 PM
  #12923  
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Sorry to mix up terminology, Aaron. I work on full size cars for a living so sometimes tend to swap words..haha. I'm referring to the turnbuckle ends for the steering. They have play in an in/out direction..The direction the steering follows. Specifically the balls that the screws go through. The balls themselves have play in the plastic ends. And as far as the c-hubs go it seems the plastic opens up id wise around the knuckle collar (step 18 parts 75/221) the kingpin goes through. To add as far as the steering components are concerned in the mp9 manual they are referred to as "tie rods", but I'm referring specifically to the ball end..So "tie rod ball ends". Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:21 PM
  #12924  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
A little slop is normal and actually makes the car handle a little more forgiving.....when they are too tight the cars handle twitchy...
i am thinking of taking the coating off my shock an polish them, that might make that look like the buggy in the pic. but that shock cap is different from the stock cap. is that the velet cap?? i remmeber and alot of talk on the caps.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:59 PM
  #12925  
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just got my front battery mount finished and battery mounted, now just waiting for my order of light blue springs to get here
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:10 PM
  #12926  
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77
i am thinking of taking the coating off my shock an polish them, that might make that look like the buggy in the pic. but that shock cap is different from the stock cap. is that the velet cap?? i remmeber and alot of talk on the caps.
You are correct, they are the Velvet caps from the first MP9's. With these caps you have a couple of mm more droop available.


The only downside is that there is more airspace in the cap but you can use the compression foams inside the caps from the MP777 to help with this.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:29 PM
  #12927  
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Has anybody running the 93mm universals up front noticed a braking effect when cornering?? Never had it happened on my tki1/2 but its happening on my tki3 and there is no binding of anything on the buggy it's all free even when the buggy is on the stand with the wheels turned but when driving and making a slow sharp corner it's kinda like I'm on the brakes and it didn't happen with the 91mm universals
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:09 PM
  #12928  
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Originally Posted by Jammin57
Has anybody running the 93mm universals up front noticed a braking effect when cornering?? Never had it happened on my tki1/2 but its happening on my tki3 and there is no binding of anything on the buggy it's all free even when the buggy is on the stand with the wheels turned but when driving and making a slow sharp corner it's kinda like I'm on the brakes and it didn't happen with the 91mm universals
I use the 93H unis up front and have not experienced what you're describing. Is the braking effect helping or hurting you're driving style? It sounds like something that would help, it definitely would help my driving style as I drive with very very little brake.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:12 AM
  #12929  
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Originally Posted by aaron125


Hey Sideshow, haven't seen you around for a little while... what engine you running these days? ...
hey Aaron, thanks for all the info. I have been lurking and keeping an eye on proceedings here the last couple of months. i have not been racing, or even own a buggy for a few months now. Had a bad experience last year that made me just sell everything and get out of it. Politics and egos.
But probably like any drug, the addictions and/or withdrawal symptoms are getting to me so im starting to to save up again for new stuff and intend to go it alone…wildcart style lol. last engines i ran were that popular for some reason "W" brand and that was propbaly the worse mistake i ever made IMO (please dont hate on me)..i know some people like them but coming from my O.S's and my .19 in particular (your advice aaron) they were just plain junk..ran perfet for 1 bottle of fuel and then wouldnt hold a tune ever again..and i knew they sucked because they sucked in a mugen and a JQ so yes…i didnt really want to trash talk but that and the after effects of that is basically what made me quit the hobby. Still managed to take 2nd in our championship even though i didnt race that last few meets. But whatever…it has always been a hobby to me and it is more than anything it has to be fun for me to do it…and it just wasnt anymore at that stage. but im better now haha. it was propbably better for some peoples' health that i left for a few months. thats why im reading up on what to get, or might just start flying helicopters again…I know what motors i will be getting though when i get started again…in my case it seems to be true…once i went O.S everything else is an automatic downgrade and i proved it to myself with 3..yes 3 of those "W" branded motors

anyway, thanks for the info on the shocks..i see what you lot are talking about now…including the shock caps.

PS
mbx7 or this for sure. the initial investment on this seems a bit tough though but the spares seem cheaper. the local kyosho dealers here are crap though so this will be another amain spares experiment lol. i might want to try a K car, since it is the only one i still have to try basically…done most of the others lol. but i did enjoy my mugens
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:48 AM
  #12930  
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Originally Posted by kyoshoracer77
i am thinking of taking the coating off my shock an polish them, that might make that look like the buggy in the pic. but that shock cap is different from the stock cap. is that the velet cap?? i remmeber and alot of talk on the caps.
those are the original shock caps , they are taller , he probably used them to gain more downtravel

i have been running kyosho for 12yrs+ , have seen most every kyosho 8th scale part there is


hope this helps

oops didnt read smellys answer first ,
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