Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Inferno MP9 thread >

Inferno MP9 thread

Like Tree1Likes

Inferno MP9 thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

Print Wikipost

Old 01-11-2013, 02:08 PM
  #12901  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CoryD
Forget that! Someone get him a pistol grip radio!!! I have NO clue how he can be THAT CRAZY FAST with a 2-stick radio!

Later,
Probably the same way Kanai does, coz I'm pretty sure he too uses a stick radio.
Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
So like on Cody's worlds setup sheet on a TKI3 I should be 2 up from the bottom?
Nope, you should be 1 up from the bottom, as in, the 2nd-lowest hole. Two up from the bottom could be interpreted as being in the middle hole on the 10-hole tower.

Strange thing is, Cody never even used the so-called WC rear shock tower on his car when he won his WC in Thailand... go figure?
Attached Thumbnails Inferno MP9 thread-codys-2010-worlds-mp9-rear-view.jpg  
aaron125 is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 02:15 PM
  #12902  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by johnatpc
Is there a certain way one should set the loose ness on the sway bars?
Just the same as on almost every other nitro buggy - set the grub screws to be as tight as possible and remove as much slop as possible, but without causing the anti-roll bar to bind up at all.

It can take some getting used to and wiggling each side back and forth to see if there's still some play but just remove your shocks and make sure that when you move one arm, the arm on the opposite side of the car starts moving almost immediately.

Often, it can help to hold the car vertical when testing this, just to see if the non-instant reaction is being caused by the grub screws being too tight, and binding on the anti-roll bar or if it's just ol' Isaac Newton at play.
aaron125 is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 02:18 PM
  #12903  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
johnatpc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 60
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aaron125
Just the same as on almost every other nitro buggy - set the grub screws to be as tight as possible and remove as much slop as possible, but without causing the anti-roll bar to bind up at all.

It can take some getting used to and wiggling each side back and forth to see if there's still some play but just remove your shocks and make sure that when you move one arm, the arm on the opposite side of the car starts moving almost immediately.

Often, it can help to hold the car vertical when testing this, just to see if the non-instant reaction is being caused by the grub screws being too tight, and binding on the anti-roll bar or if it's just ol' Isaac Newton at play.
Thank you sir.Wanted to be sure.
johnatpc is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 02:23 PM
  #12904  
Tech Addict
 
slow coach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: guernsey C.I.
Posts: 626
Default

Originally Posted by rfleck
Somebody, please get this man a metal servo horn!

http://gallery.neobuggy.net/2013Race...3079&k=kPJbFcp

Seriously though, he is flying in practice.
why it wasnt the servo horn that failed in argentina it was the servo.
slow coach is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 02:29 PM
  #12905  
Tech Addict
 
slow coach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: guernsey C.I.
Posts: 626
Default

Originally Posted by johnatpc
Is there a certain way one should set the loose ness on the sway bars?
disconnect both ends of roll bar and make sure both grub screws are loose then lift roll bar up to horizontal then tighten down one grub screw till it holds the roll bar up, slowly release the grub screw till the roll bar drops freely without any notchiness, once one side is set repeat for the other exactly the same, once done roll bar should be perfect, hth
slow coach is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 02:31 PM
  #12906  
Tech Master
 
nitroexpress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,919
Default

Originally Posted by slow coach
why it wasnt the servo horn that failed in argentina it was the servo.
That wasn't what was reported on LiveRC. But then, a failed servo sounds better.
nitroexpress is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 02:45 PM
  #12907  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
hookem34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas.....Y'all!
Posts: 1,797
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by slow coach
disconnect both ends of roll bar and make sure both grub screws are loose then lift roll bar up to horizontal then tighten down one grub screw till it holds the roll bar up, slowly release the grub screw till the roll bar drops freely without any notchiness, once one side is set repeat for the other exactly the same, once done roll bar should be perfect, hth
Kind of hard to visualize. Grub screw on the diff housing or grub screw on the outer ball link?
hookem34 is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 02:57 PM
  #12908  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hookem34
Kind of hard to visualize. Grub screw on the diff housing or grub screw on the outer ball link?
I'm guessing it would have to be the grub screws in the diff housing because nothing would "hold the bar up" and "drop freely" if tightening/loosening the grub screws in the outer ball-links.
aaron125 is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 03:54 PM
  #12909  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
hookem34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas.....Y'all!
Posts: 1,797
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aaron125
I'm guessing it would have to be the grub screws in the diff housing because nothing would "hold the bar up" and "drop freely" if tightening/loosening the grub screws in the outer ball-links.
Right.

So the sway bar should not be able to move side to side in the diff housing retainer. Unless you want more roll.
hookem34 is offline  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:08 PM
  #12910  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
 
houston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sherwood,OR
Posts: 15,844
Trader Rating: 96 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitroexpress
That wasn't what was reported on LiveRC. But then, a failed servo sounds better.
It was a servo for sure
houston is offline  
Old 01-12-2013, 01:03 AM
  #12911  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
likeaboss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 294
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Front end slop

Looking for any pointers/suggestions on how to remove the slop from the front end. I've replaced the inner/outer tie rods and they seem to be sloppy already again after a couple hours. Is this normal? Is there another brand of outer/inner that will last longer? Also the front c-hubs seem to have more than normal play where the kingpin screws go..Do I just need to replace these more often, just live with it, or is there some other solution? Red army for life! haha Thanks!
likeaboss is offline  
Old 01-12-2013, 04:29 AM
  #12912  
Tech Master
 
Sideshow Bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: South Africa
Posts: 1,056
Default

hi guys..sorry if this is a stupid question. im sortoff on the fence wether or not to save up for one of these K cars so i have been reading this thread for a while now. i have come across various people stating that the anodizing on the shocks are not that good however...amogst other things..the drilling chassis holes being my biggest turnoff. i notice that the tki3 comes with those gold/bronze (from what i can tell from pics) colored shocks but i see the pics from team drivers..alot of them are running a shock thats seems more silver. is this from a older version or is it perhaps a hint of a new version coming out? or am i missing something? that raises my other concern hehe…i'd propablky be seriously p'd off if i just baught a tki3 and something new gets released since it is sortoff time about now…but then again…if they destroy the mbx7 at this next big event..i guess then they have no reason to try and fix something that aint broke right? i have raced a mugen before so obviously the new one interests me but i am by no means blind..i know the worlds track was unique..not taking anything away from Batlle…but id like to see them head to head on the usual tracks too i guess

these are the shocks like on Boots' car:


i might be wrong..but those dont really look like kit standard tki3 shocks to me do they? arent the tki3 shocks more the color of the anodizing on the rest of the car?
Sideshow Bob is offline  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:00 AM
  #12913  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (14)
 
eric3272's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 142
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know if the Vp-pro clutch bells fit right with the Kyosho flywheel?
eric3272 is offline  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:11 AM
  #12914  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
hookem34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas.....Y'all!
Posts: 1,797
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Sideshow Bob
hi guys..sorry if this is a stupid question. im sortoff on the fence wether or not to save up for one of these K cars so i have been reading this thread for a while now. i have come across various people stating that the anodizing on the shocks are not that good however...amogst other things..the drilling chassis holes being my biggest turnoff. i notice that the tki3 comes with those gold/bronze (from what i can tell from pics) colored shocks but i see the pics from team drivers..alot of them are running a shock thats seems more silver. is this from a older version or is it perhaps a hint of a new version coming out? or am i missing something? that raises my other concern hehe…i'd propablky be seriously p'd off if i just baught a tki3 and something new gets released since it is sortoff time about now…but then again…if they destroy the mbx7 at this next big event..i guess then they have no reason to try and fix something that aint broke right? i have raced a mugen before so obviously the new one interests me but i am by no means blind..i know the worlds track was unique..not taking anything away from Batlle…but id like to see them head to head on the usual tracks too i guess

these are the shocks like on Boots' car:


i might be wrong..but those dont really look like kit standard tki3 shocks to me do they? arent the tki3 shocks more the color of the anodizing on the rest of the car?
Hard to tell from that picture, but those might be the option shock bodies. The anodizing does wear from the kit shocks, but there is absolutely no performance loss.

You will love K cars coming from Mugen. I know I did I will never jump to another chassis.
hookem34 is offline  
Old 01-12-2013, 05:23 AM
  #12915  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (11)
 
Maximo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,901
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by likeaboss
Looking for any pointers/suggestions on how to remove the slop from the front end. I've replaced the inner/outer tie rods and they seem to be sloppy already again after a couple hours. Is this normal? Is there another brand of outer/inner that will last longer? Also the front c-hubs seem to have more than normal play where the kingpin screws go..Do I just need to replace these more often, just live with it, or is there some other solution? Red army for life! haha Thanks!
A little slop is normal and actually makes the car handle a little more forgiving.....when they are too tight the cars handle twitchy...
Maximo is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.