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Inferno MP9 thread

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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-03-2013, 08:45 AM
  #12751  
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Originally Posted by McD44
...Now here's a link to my video of my TKI3 using a 34mm clutch without flaming out on landings...http://youtu.be/oHg5SJYRHA0
HAHAHAHAHAHHAHHA!
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:17 AM
  #12752  
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Cody Kings 2010 Worlds Set Up...I do not understand how you could get his set-up without using full droop. Full droop does not work because the car will push. Am I missing anything? In the set up sheet it's the mm's from the shock nut to the shock retainer pin.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:28 AM
  #12753  
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I've run full droop (102 or so mm from tower pin to arm pin) in the front quite a bit. I've never noticed that the car got pushy with this setup. You may want to get the aluminum c-hubs; they give you SIGNIFICANTLY more steering.

Have you put on the Titanium screws as well as the Hard Anodized Aluminum suspension balls like Cody? Reducing the weight does make the car handle a bit differently as well.

Regards,
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:40 AM
  #12754  
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Originally Posted by Afun
Cody Kings 2010 Worlds Set Up...I do not understand how you could get his set-up without using full droop. Full droop does not work because the car will push. Am I missing anything? In the set up sheet it's the mm's from the shock nut to the shock retainer pin.
I noticed same thing. When I set droop the only way to get to 99mm was running full droop. However, I set it on the car stand with no tires on. Once I put tires on and got weight on the suspension I measured the droop and it was like 105mm or something. I was then able to turn in the droop screw quite a bit.

At first I was like it is impossible to get to 99 without running full droop but with tires mounted it is no problem.....
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by CoryD
I've run full droop (102 or so mm from tower pin to arm pin) in the front quite a bit. I've never noticed that the car got pushy with this setup. You may want to get the aluminum c-hubs; they give you SIGNIFICANTLY more steering.

Have you put on the Titanium screws as well as the Hard Anodized Aluminum suspension balls like Cody? Reducing the weight does make the car handle a bit differently as well.

Regards,
I have not measured with the wheels on it. My bad...
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:51 AM
  #12756  
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lenght of rear shocks in mp9 tki3, anyone ?
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sialek
lenght of rear shocks in mp9 tki3, anyone ?
The early MP9's had long shocks and are the same as current STRR Truggy rear shocks. The front truggy shocks are the same as TKI2/3 rear shocks. I think there is 5-6mm overall length difference. The long shocks have 66mm shafts and the med shocks have 63mm shafts.

Fully extended the long shocks are around 125mm centre to centre and the medium shocks are around 120mm.
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:03 PM
  #12758  
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I just mounted a mp777 fromt lower arms. Kinda read it somewhere here that they are tough. Havent tried it on track yet if theres a handling difference but they look solid though






Originally Posted by likeaboss
Assuming I have the latest front control arms (WC) version, is there anything else I can do to them to make them stronger? I broke two in a 5-7 hours worth of driving span of time at the fear farm this last weekend (low 60's high 50's). One broke on the outside (old version) and another broke on the inside (new version). I know I need to crash less too (given) ha! I know the temp also may have something to do with it?
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:52 PM
  #12759  
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Originally Posted by smelly62
Happy new year Sean! So Cody didn't try the 16 deg carriers or the unsprung weights? Any news about the upgrade parts and how they performed? I'm thinking of only getting the hard rear arms and not much else at this point. I'm curious about the weights and 16deg carriers though.
Happy New Year to you too smelly! I'm not sure if he ran the 16 deg carriers earlier in the event, but they weren't on his car so that's not what he ran on main day. The 16deg carriers were really meant for that track if the track stayed smooth - get some on-power steering. With how rough it got, this became a less critical handling characteristic as the corner speed just wasn't there.

I ran the weights with Cody a few weeks before the Worlds. He ran the 15s, I ran the 10s. Started by putting them in the front and ran, then added them to the rear. We were at a track that was pretty rough, and we were literally going out there with shovels chunking it out.

With the weights in the front, there was a noticeable effect, but the rear felt disconnected and sort of nervous compared to the front. I felt like the car was harder to put where I wanted it, but at the same time, you could power through stuff a lot easier (everything is a trade-off when it comes to handling). When I ran them on the front and rear, this really felt good on a rough track, but again, the car was sort of numb. It still turned great, but it was just sort of heavy feeling if that makes sense. I still want to try them at some other tracks that are notoriously rough around here just for kicks.

As I understood it, their intent at the Worlds was to go back to what they knew and what Cody was comfortable with. Often times you can throw a bunch of stuff at the car at an event like that and get lost, especially on a foreign-to-you track. I know I do that a lot - if I feel like I'm off in the weeds, I go back to square one and just drive it. A comfortable-to-me car is always faster in a long main than a car setup to be faster but feels odd.

I should edit my original post because they were probably running the stiffer rear arms, but to the naked eye, they're the same as the current kit arms.

With regards to the comments about droop - you have to be careful when you setup/build your shocks. If you're screwing your shock ends on all the way, you're probably going to be limiting the down-travel with the shock and not the droop screw. That's what it sounds like anyway. Either that or a really worn chassis. Screw the shock ends on so the locknut that holds the piston on is just below the top - remember the bladder actually sits inside the shock body just slightly so if the nut is coming out past the top of the shock body, you're going to be compressing the bladder. I always setup my shocks this way so when I go to install them on the arm, I have to compress them a little bit to get them on the tower. Then when I adjust my droop, I know I have a little shock travel to play with and the droop isn't limited by the shock piston.

Try that stuff and see if it works any better. When I measure droop, it's always with the wheels off. Hope everyone's gearing up for a great 2013 season...going to start my DNC 2013 builds here in the next week!
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:58 PM
  #12760  
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If you guys are having issues with lower front arms, I'd suggest ditching the aluminum upper arms if you're running them. Completely unnecessary, and transmits forces to other areas of the car that may be undesirable. Not saying the plastic upper front arms will prevent lower arms from braking during cartwheels or lawndarts, but running aluminum instead of plastic sends forces to the next weakest link 100 times out of 100. The same is true for running the aluminum front c-hubs, you're more prone to break the lower front arm on the outside of the arm if you clip pipes, etc than if you ran the plastic c-hubs. But the aluminum c-hubs provide some tangible setup benefit, whereas the aluminum upper arms don't to my knowledge.
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:03 PM
  #12761  
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Hi Sean
When you go testing do you take lap times and analyse it according to lap times or just from feel. ??
Sorry if this seems to be a dumb question but its always good to know. Often something that does not feel so great is fast and visa versa.

Thanks
Brett
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CoryD
HAHAHAHAHAHHAHHA!
i just watched a good 30 seconds before i realized there would be no rc car in the video, damn u
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:46 PM
  #12763  
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Originally Posted by J33
I just mounted a mp777 front lower arms.
Was the main reason? Supposedly stronger?
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:49 PM
  #12764  
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Originally Posted by sodi
Hi Sean
When you go testing do you take lap times and analyse it according to lap times or just from feel. ??
Sorry if this seems to be a dumb question but its always good to know. Often something that does not feel so great is fast and visa versa.

Thanks
Brett
Hey Brett, not a dumb question at all. Yeah, sometimes I take lap times, sometimes I don't, just depends. Often times I practice by myself (other people are around but I'm doing all my own stuff) so it makes it tough to keep track of my laps. Also, how I run in practice is very different from how I run in qualifying and mains. I would say I practice at 95-100% but qualify/race at 75-80%. I usually practice at a track where I know what fast lap times are and they have the loop live, so I can just look at my times that way and compare.

Like I said though, something that has a better feel to me usually wins over something that will give me a tenth a lap. I know this sounds weird, but my thinking is that over the course of 30mins, if it feels better and I'm more comfortable, I'll be less prone to make a mistake and therefore be faster than if I was to run a setup yielding 0.1s faster laps but made one more mistake. If a mistake costs me say conservatively 5sec, I'd have to run 50 laps before I'd make up that lost time with the faster setup for example. The best is when it feels better and is faster, that's a discount double check
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Old 01-04-2013, 12:25 AM
  #12765  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Hey Brett, not a dumb question at all. Yeah, sometimes I take lap times, sometimes I don't, just depends. Often times I practice by myself (other people are around but I'm doing all my own stuff) so it makes it tough to keep track of my laps. Also, how I run in practice is very different from how I run in qualifying and mains. I would say I practice at 95-100% but qualify/race at 75-80%. I usually practice at a track where I know what fast lap times are and they have the loop live, so I can just look at my times that way and compare.

Like I said though, something that has a better feel to me usually wins over something that will give me a tenth a lap. I know this sounds weird, but my thinking is that over the course of 30mins, if it feels better and I'm more comfortable, I'll be less prone to make a mistake and therefore be faster than if I was to run a setup yielding 0.1s faster laps but made one more mistake. If a mistake costs me say conservatively 5sec, I'd have to run 50 laps before I'd make up that lost time with the faster setup for example. The best is when it feels better and is faster, that's a discount double check
Hey Sean
Thanks for the reply
That makes perfect sense.
Brett
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