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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 12-31-2012, 10:27 PM
  #12721  
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in regards to the unis you may want to check the actual uni joint also. my pins are not wearing nearly as bad as other cars I have owned, they are lasting 3x as long. but eventually the uni gets sloppy.

thats where I would be more concerned and when it slops out there I replace.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:23 AM
  #12722  
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Originally Posted by ben73
in regards to the unis you may want to check the actual uni joint also. my pins are not wearing nearly as bad as other cars I have owned, they are lasting 3x as long. but eventually the uni gets sloppy.

thats where I would be more concerned and when it slops out there I replace.
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:25 AM
  #12723  
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[QUOTE=smelly62;11617288]In cold weather boiling the plastics is reccommended.

Thanks, Smelly. So 60 deg. would be considered cold in the control arms world?
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:29 AM
  #12724  
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Originally Posted by likeaboss

Thanks, Smelly. So 60 deg. would be considered cold in the control arms world?
I would say not really too cold but I guess it depends on the wreck

I have personally never had any problems with front a arms with any except the very first kits when the mp9 very first came out
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:13 PM
  #12725  
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Originally Posted by houston
I would say not really too cold but I guess it depends on the wreck

I have personally never had any problems with front a arms with any except the very first kits when the mp9 very first came out
Cooked or uncooked Also where were they breaking mostly?
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:01 AM
  #12726  
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Hi guys
I went out testing today just thought I would get back to you regarding the diff oils and shock pistons
Started and finished with 8/8/3 it was really good very stable with good traction through the whole duration of the corner. Good exit bight with great power on steering. Think I have found the diff combo for the circuit as is. Regarding the pistons I put the 1,3/8 in to the car after doing a session with the std kyosho pistons. Wow what a diffrence its amazing the rebound is so much better with the wheels returning to the ground so much better especially through the rough fast parts of the track. Defenately better suited as stated earlier in the forum that for bumpy big jump tracks its better. Ended up with 35 rear 40 front Losi oil.
Thanks for all the possitive feedback from you guys it really helps you get to a starting point a lot quicker.

Thanks guys
Brett
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:34 AM
  #12727  
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[QUOTE=likeaboss;11619136]
Originally Posted by smelly62
In cold weather boiling the plastics is reccommended.

Thanks, Smelly. So 60 deg. would be considered cold in the control arms world?
It was 50 degrees out tonight. Cart wheeled it into the corrogated pipe after the double and broke my TKI3's front arm originating from the rear side of the outter hinge pin hole to about where the cut out for the c-hub begins. The front part of the outter hinge pin hole was still intact. I was very surprised it broke from that. Time to start boiling.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:44 AM
  #12728  
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Originally Posted by sodi
Hi guys
I went out testing today just thought I would get back to you regarding the diff oils and shock pistons
Started and finished with 8/8/3 it was really good very stable with good traction through the whole duration of the corner. Good exit bight with great power on steering. Think I have found the diff combo for the circuit as is. Regarding the pistons I put the 1,3/8 in to the car after doing a session with the std kyosho pistons. Wow what a diffrence its amazing the rebound is so much better with the wheels returning to the ground so much better especially through the rough fast parts of the track. Defenately better suited as stated earlier in the forum that for bumpy big jump tracks its better. Ended up with 35 rear 40 front Losi oil.
Thanks for all the possitive feedback from you guys it really helps you get to a starting point a lot quicker.

Thanks guys
Brett
Brett, thanks for that update. What was the tempurature where you were testing? These winter temps are messing my set up up. I haven't heard of anyone using 8/8/3 before. Did you like that better than the 5/5/3? Good info on the 1.3x8's. If Amain ever ships my stuff... What's your shock mount center to shock mount center droop setting? I reduced mine to 99mm front / 118mm rear and it was slipping and sliding.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:54 AM
  #12729  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
Brett, thanks for that update. What was the tempurature where you were testing? These winter temps are messing my set up up. I haven't heard of anyone using 8/8/3 before. Did you like that better than the 5/5/3? Good info on the 1.3x8's. If Amain ever ships my stuff... What's your shock mount center to shock mount center droop setting? I reduced mine to 99mm front / 118mm rear and it was slipping and sliding.
Sorry was silly not to give temperature.
Today it was over cast and windy the temp was 22/24 max degrees cel.

Regarding the diffs I have come down from 10/10/5 so still going to try 5/5/3.
Car was very good settled well and dialed tyre wear was good very even. on 10/10/5 I was eating front tyres.
I will be testing 5/5/3 next outing.
My droop in front is max droop 103mm shock mounted inner bottom hole and top mounting is middle hole. Camber link is inner hole on hub front
Rear shock droop is 120mm outer bottom hole middle on shock post.
Camber link is top inner and top outer on hub.
Ackerman is in the centre hole
Our track is very bumpy and rutted.
I am also going to try heavier shock oils. I feel I can stiffen it up more on the oils.
Front roll bar is 2,8mm rear is 3,0mm
Hope this helps.
Brett
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:24 AM
  #12730  
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Originally Posted by sodi
Sorry was silly not to give temperature.
Today it was over cast and windy the temp was 22/24 max degrees cel.

Regarding the diffs I have come down from 10/10/5 so still going to try 5/5/3.
Car was very good settled well and dialed tyre wear was good very even. on 10/10/5 I was eating front tyres.
I will be testing 5/5/3 next outing.
My droop in front is max droop 103mm shock mounted inner bottom hole and top mounting is middle hole. Camber link is inner hole on hub front
Rear shock droop is 120mm outer bottom hole middle on shock post.
Camber link is top inner and top outer on hub.
Ackerman is in the centre hole
Our track is very bumpy and rutted.
I am also going to try heavier shock oils. I feel I can stiffen it up more on the oils.
Front roll bar is 2,8mm rear is 3,0mm
Hope this helps.
Brett
Thanks for the info. Some useful stuff in there. Have you played much with your ackerman setting? I use the rear hole as I prefer the stearing to feel a bit more responsive. Found the middle made the stearing feal a bit lazy. That must be one bumpy track judging by those droop settings. I seem to remember that Savoya ran 10,10,x weight diff oil (or there abouts) at some point. I remember trying it on an mbx6 myself but found I just couldn't control the car :-)
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:30 AM
  #12731  
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Originally Posted by ratjayfala
Thanks for the info. Some useful stuff in there. Have you played much with your ackerman setting? I use the rear hole as I prefer the stearing to feel a bit more responsive. Found the middle made the stearing feal a bit lazy. That must be one bumpy track judging by those droop settings. I seem to remember that Savoya ran 10,10,x weight diff oil (or there abouts) at some point. I remember trying it on an mbx6 myself but found I just couldn't control the car :-)
Do you have the offset facing the rear or the front of the car? Would you say the car feels twitchy at all with your settings? I'm going to start experimenting with ackerman settings next practice day now that I feel that I have my suspension sorted.
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:41 AM
  #12732  
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Originally Posted by ratjayfala
Thanks for the info. Some useful stuff in there. Have you played much with your ackerman setting? I use the rear hole as I prefer the stearing to feel a bit more responsive. Found the middle made the stearing feal a bit lazy. That must be one bumpy track judging by those droop settings. I seem to remember that Savoya ran 10,10,x weight diff oil (or there abouts) at some point. I remember trying it on an mbx6 myself but found I just couldn't control the car :-)
Your correct with the Ackerman setting. I run the bull dog body which gives the car massive steering so I prefer to run the the middle hole otherwise its to responsive. So the centre holes work well for me with that body. I also did back to back testing with the std body versus the bull dog today again. The car jumps much better with the bull dog body keeping a slightly nose down flight. The std body seems to have a rear down flight. Regarding our track its very bumpy the guys did some great work the other night to the track and its much better now but still requires alot of droop.

Anyway just my 2cents worth hope it helps.

Brett
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:57 AM
  #12733  
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Are there any rumors of a TKI4 yet? I'm considering buying a new buggy and don't want to drop the hammer if a new version is just around the corner...
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:08 AM
  #12734  
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[QUOTE=likeaboss;11619136]
Originally Posted by smelly62
In cold weather boiling the plastics is reccommended.

Thanks, Smelly. So 60 deg. would be considered cold in the control arms world?
My pleasure 60 F is around 15 C so yes that is cold enough for an increased risk of breakages, in fact anything less than 25 C is going to be increasing the likelyhood of cold related breakages.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Akhor
Are there any rumors of a TKI4 yet? I'm considering buying a new buggy and don't want to drop the hammer if a new version is just around the corner...
+1
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