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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 12-24-2012, 01:19 AM
  #12571  
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I race my TKI3 about one hour per week. When I'm not racing it, the car is elevated and the suspension is relaxed. Does anyone have any experience with how long the shock springs last? I noticed that they don't spring the car back up to ride height as readily as they once did and I'm not sure if its due to the springs loosing their power or the weather getting way colder, or some other issue.
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:37 AM
  #12572  
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Also, I can't seem to find any medium length grey springs for the rear of my tki3. Does anyone sell them?
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:29 AM
  #12573  
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Originally Posted by sugelle
Need some advice. I'm presently building a TKI3 kit and working on rear diff. The instructions call for 1 shim to be placed over the outdrive on the ring side of rear diff. When I assemble the case, the diff feels really notchy and tight. Is this shim required? I removed it and diff spins really smoothly but not sure if this would cause issues without shim?
This question comes up often. Once the bulkhead is bolted to the chassis it is better and any remaining tightness will dissappear after one tank of fuel.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:23 AM
  #12574  
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Just like ring and pinions in really cars they need to be a tight and then wear into each other. Also it ensure that you are using the full tooth.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:30 AM
  #12575  
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Originally Posted by smelly62
This question comes up often. Once the bulkhead is bolted to the chassis it is better and any remaining tightness will dissappear after one tank of fuel.
Originally Posted by Speedracer1600
Just like ring and pinions in really cars they need to be a tight and then wear into each other. Also it ensure that you are using the full tooth.
Ok...sounds like I need to put the shim back in and let gears wear in after running a bit.
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:44 AM
  #12576  
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Originally Posted by sugelle
Ok...sounds like I need to put the shim back in and let gears wear in after running a bit.
When u built mine I left them out. I tried them but it was very tight with 0 mesh. Even without them I had Very minimal movement. Seems to me that all the bulkheads are not gonna be exactly precise.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:24 AM
  #12577  
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Originally Posted by sugelle
Ok...sounds like I need to put the shim back in and let gears wear in after running a bit.
That's what I did and it worked out smooth
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:28 PM
  #12578  
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I also never put my shims in it seemed tight and notchy with them in. I have not driven the new car yet so I think I will put them in to before I run it.
Thanks
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:33 PM
  #12579  
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Someone please correct me if i am wrong but if there is No Backlash and its metal to metal it seems to me that there is no room for much grease between gears.

Last edited by EastTxRacer; 12-24-2012 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:40 PM
  #12580  
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Originally Posted by Jammin57
No... It is US dollars $858 with FedEx free shipping
don't know what's going on here, i just checked it on my phone it says 858$ and on my pc the prices are in euros and it says 858 euros...

Shady if you ask me...
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:48 PM
  #12581  
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Anyone know if there's an editable setup sheet anywhere online? Thanks
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:08 PM
  #12582  
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Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
Anyone know if there's an editable setup sheet anywhere online? Thanks
http://www.infernosonly.com/Download...heets_s/24.htm
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:13 PM
  #12583  
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Originally Posted by sugelle
Need some advice. I'm presently building a TKI3 kit and working on rear diff. The instructions call for 1 shim to be placed over the outdrive on the ring side of rear diff. When I assemble the case, the diff feels really notchy and tight. Is this shim required? I removed it and diff spins really smoothly but not sure if this would cause issues without shim?
If you read the instructions carefully, it says to "adjust with shim to set the optimal gear backlash (so there is still slight movement between the gears." So, it doesn't state that you actually require a shim when building the bulkheads/adjusting pinion mesh, just saying that you might require some adjustment to get the mesh set correctly, and that if you do, that's when the shim(s) is to be used.

I've said this many times before but how is anyone actually meant to know just what Kyosho is referring to when they say "optimal gear backlash" or "slight movement"??? They are both such stupidly ambiguous statements, they might as well either not be there at all or just say "do whatever you reckon's right" because that's all one can infer from the instructions. Kyosho instruction manuals have been this way for at least 10-15 years in my experience, since the MP7.5.

Best thing to do to actually get an of idea as to how much movement actually constitutes "slight movement" is to read the diff-pinion shimming section from the ST-RR Evo manual (page 14 I think). Almost a perfect expanation and very easy to understand and follow.
Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
Also, I can't seem to find any medium length grey springs for the rear of my tki3. Does anyone sell them?
That's coz there ain't any. No such thing as rear grey springs, just like there's no front red springs. Not all spring rates (colours) are available in all lengths.
Originally Posted by EastTxRacer
When u built mine I left them out. I tried them but it was very tight with 0 mesh. Even without them I had Very minimal movement. Seems to me that all the bulkheads are not gonna be exactly precise.
I've built well over 50 bulkheads using brand-new parts for both bulkheads and ring gears and also used parts for both and also combinations, so perhaps used ring gear but new bulkheads, etc.

In every single case, one just has to see how it feels when all bolted in and only then can the mesh be set using the correct shims or in some cases no shims at all.

Obviously not all bulkheads will ever be identical as these are just injection molded plastic parts made in the thousands in a run. And we aren't using parts made for the Space Shuttle or something which actually requires any sort of decent tolerances. And if the ambient temp is a little hotter or cooler than the day the moulds were made, the bulkheads made on the hotter/cooler days will be ever so slightly different size because the mould itself would have expanded/contracted. Or maybe the fella mixing up the plastic put a tiny bit too much of this ingredient or a bit too little of another, so again, the bulkheads will be slightly different size from the (thoeretical, obviously) perfect size.
Originally Posted by EastTxRacer
Someone please correct me if i am wrong but if there is NO mesh and its metal to metal it seems to me that there is no room for grease!!
I don't know what you mean by "NO mesh" as that's only possible if the gears are not touching each other at all, as in no teeth are interlocking. But there will always be room for grease or lubrication of some sort. It simply isn't possible to get a complete metal to metal contact between the diff and pinion because once even the thinnest layer of grease/lube has been applied, it will always remain as the forces on diff-pinion gear teeth is nowhere near what's needed to completely cause any and all lube to be completely dispelled to the point of a metal to metal contact situation.

Also, if you don't use any lube whatsoever, you're going to be chewing through ring and pinion gears at a very fast rate and be constantly replacing them.
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:20 PM
  #12584  
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Been messing with electrics for awhile what is the ride height on buggy
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:21 PM
  #12585  
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Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
Anyone know if there's an editable setup sheet anywhere online? Thanks
I put a link in a post a while back for a current setup sheet I uploaded, which is editable and is the only editable setup sheet I've ever seen which has a 'reset' button (and it only has the reset button because I added it in) so that one can get back to a clean/new setup sheet that doesn't have all the previous settings still there.

If you can't find my old post with the link, let me know and I'll upload it and give you the URL.
Damn, that thing is ancient and UGLY!! Mine is the almost newest version, either TKI2 v1.05 or WC v1.00, can't remember which (and can't be bothered checking right now).
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