Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Inferno MP9 thread >

Inferno MP9 thread

Like Tree1Likes

Inferno MP9 thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

Print Wikipost

Old 12-17-2012, 11:32 AM
  #12451  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 621
Default REAR WIEGHTS FOR MP9/TKI SERIES BUGGIES


M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our brass weight kit for the
PMP9/TKI SERIES buggies. these weights are made of brass and come in
5 and 10 gram weight. they can be combined to add up to 15 grams to the rear end per side. They bolt to the existing mud guard holes. these weights add unsprung weight to the rear end for added traction and help with foward bite.
part no. m2c2960

http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...ywords=m2c2960

Last edited by m2cracing; 12-17-2012 at 11:57 AM.
m2cracing is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 12:53 PM
  #12452  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
 
adrictan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 5,232
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by m2cracing

M2C RACING is pleased to announce the release of our brass weight kit for the
PMP9/TKI SERIES buggies. these weights are made of brass and come in
5 and 10 gram weight. they can be combined to add up to 15 grams to the rear end per side. They bolt to the existing mud guard holes. these weights add unsprung weight to the rear end for added traction and help with foward bite.
part no. m2c2960

http://m2cracing.com/searchquick-sub...ywords=m2c2960
Order placed for a set to try.
adrictan is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 06:00 PM
  #12453  
Tech Master
iTrader: (65)
 
GMS_Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Palm Harbor
Posts: 1,700
Trader Rating: 65 (100%+)
Default

Was Elliot Boots running the KYOSHO cab forward body?
GMS_Racing is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 07:03 PM
  #12454  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,349
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eddie10
Any word on a tki3 e buggy coming. Mp9e near impossible to find anywhere now.
most guys are converting tki3's to electric. No one has really said that they are going to come out with another ebuggy
evolution03 is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 07:36 PM
  #12455  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
AZRC4Me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 1,147
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
Was Elliot Boots running the KYOSHO cab forward body?
I believe so...

AZRC4Me is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:08 PM
  #12456  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (26)
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 929
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by evolution03
most guys are converting tki3's to electric. No one has really said that they are going to come out with another ebuggy
I was just going to convert but the conversion kits are out of stock everywhere as well
eddie10 is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:20 PM
  #12457  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
THE PHILLY JYNX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,385
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eddie10
I was just going to convert but the conversion kits are out of stock everywhere as well
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=1115
THE PHILLY JYNX is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:23 PM
  #12458  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
hookem34's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Texas.....Y'all!
Posts: 1,797
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Anyone got a spare TKI2/3 chassis they want to sell? If so, PM please. Thanks!
hookem34 is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:31 PM
  #12459  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
THE PHILLY JYNX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,385
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hookem34
Anyone got a spare TKI2/3 chassis they want to sell? If so, PM please. Thanks!
I DO...
THE PHILLY JYNX is offline  
Old 12-17-2012, 09:11 PM
  #12460  
HH
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
 
HH's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: So Cal
Posts: 750
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default TKI3 Chassis

The chassis that came in my TKI3 kit has kind of a dark bronze color to the anodizing and is 3mm thick exactly (which is typical for aluminum manufactured outside of the USA). The anodizing was almost completely worn off the bottom of this chassis after the first race day and it seems to have an abundance of flex to it. In fact whenever I race at night you can see sparks shooting out the bottom in those sections of the track that cause the chassis to flex severely (yes.. my mesh is proper and I have the chassis drilled below the clutch bell ). Sometimes the sparks are so large that if my pit guy was to get a little sloppy when refueling me, it could easily ignite the spilled fuel.
However.. with this chassis my buggy is totally hooooked-effin-up!

I had heard the replacement chassis KYOIF473 was more durable than the kit chassis with better quality anodizing etc... so I picked one up. The anodizing is kind of a light golden/tan color on this chassis and it measures 3.18mm thick (which equals .125" or 1/8" and is typical for aluminum manufactured in the USA ). After one practice session and a full race day with this newer chassis the anodizing on the bottom is barely even scratched and there haven't been any sparks shooting out the bottom from grinding the clutchbell either.
However.. with this chassis my buggy just doesn't feel hooked-up like it did with the kit chassis . I've found myself searching for setup changes to compensate for the lack of traction. That never even came into consideration with the original chassis.

My question is... Has anyone else had this problem? and if so, have you found a remedy for it??
HH is offline  
Old 12-18-2012, 01:06 AM
  #12461  
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Perth, West Australia.
Posts: 1,246
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

I always thought the replacement chassis was stiffer. Never thought to measure the thickness, always put it down to the hard anno making it stiffer.

I bet everyone has run off to measure their chassis now LOL.

Tebo used to run the TKI chassis which is even stiffer, not sure if he still does??
smelly62 is offline  
Old 12-18-2012, 02:28 AM
  #12462  
Tech Master
 
malcnz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: CHRISTCHURCH, NewZealand
Posts: 1,339
Default

Originally Posted by HH
The chassis that came in my TKI3 kit has kind of a dark bronze color to the anodizing and is 3mm thick exactly (which is typical for aluminum manufactured outside of the USA). The anodizing was almost completely worn off the bottom of this chassis after the first race day and it seems to have an abundance of flex to it. In fact whenever I race at night you can see sparks shooting out the bottom in those sections of the track that cause the chassis to flex severely (yes.. my mesh is proper and I have the chassis drilled below the clutch bell ). Sometimes the sparks are so large that if my pit guy was to get a little sloppy when refueling me, it could easily ignite the spilled fuel.
However.. with this chassis my buggy is totally hooooked-effin-up!

I had heard the replacement chassis KYOIF473 was more durable than the kit chassis with better quality anodizing etc... so I picked one up. The anodizing is kind of a light golden/tan color on this chassis and it measures 3.18mm thick (which equals .125" or 1/8" and is typical for aluminum manufactured in the USA ). After one practice session and a full race day with this newer chassis the anodizing on the bottom is barely even scratched and there haven't been any sparks shooting out the bottom from grinding the clutchbell either.
However.. with this chassis my buggy just doesn't feel hooked-up like it did with the kit chassis . I've found myself searching for setup changes to compensate for the lack of traction. That never even came into consideration with the original chassis.

My question is... Has anyone else had this problem? and if so, have you found a remedy for it??
This is the main reason i wouldnt go back to kyosho as they off load the crappy brown anodizing in the kit and charge you the earth for doing so and then try to tell you the aftermarket kyosho alloy parts with the lighter golden anodizing is the same..yeah right
malcnz is offline  
Old 12-18-2012, 03:03 AM
  #12463  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by smelly62
I always thought the replacement chassis was stiffer. Never thought to measure the thickness, always put it down to the hard anno making it stiffer.

I bet everyone has run off to measure their chassis now LOL.

Tebo used to run the TKI chassis which is even stiffer, not sure if he still does??
It's physically impossible for the anodic layer applied to the chassis to have any effect on the overall torsional stiffness or stiffness in any direction. It is only a absolutely incredibly thin layer on the very outside of the chassis or any anodized item, therefore it is not at all possible for the anodic layer itself to have even the slightest increase or benefit when it comes to the stiffness of the chassis. Absolutely same thing goes for the shock towers and any other MP9 part which is available in the kit brown
anodizing or the spare parts gold anodizing.

The easiest way to think of what anodizing is, would be to think of it as a 'kind of' rust. Of course, it's not an oxidization layer but apart from that, they're conceptually similar, to a degree.

And the only difference between hard anodizing and regular anodizing is the temperature and the voltage applied to the acid bath while performing the actual anodizing process and sometimes the degree of acidity/pH level.

One might notice slightly improved scratch resistance from hard anodizing, but as has been stated many times before today, the anodic layer itself isn't physically able to increase the stiffness or strength of the item being anodized.

Even Mr King elobarated on this very topic some months ago in this forum. No idea what page number though.

Originally Posted by malcnz
This is the main reason i wouldnt go back to kyosho as they off load the crappy brown anodizing in the kit and charge you the earth for doing so and then try to tell you the aftermarket kyosho alloy parts with the lighter golden anodizing is the same..yeah right
Believe what you want but it is such a tiny amount of money involved to make a chassis or other alloy part anodized versus hard anodizing it. Finances are almost never a determining factor as to whether something is anodized or HA. Surface scratch resistance, electrical insulation, sometimes chemical insulation, but I've never heard of a company saying "we'll just regular anodize this batch of parts because we'll save about 1/100th of a cent per anodized chassis and perhaps we might save 1/1000th of a cent if we regular anodize something like the suspension braces, rather than HA them".

I've never understood why most people seem to think than HA is a more expensive process to perform than regular anodizing because the differences are so tiny it's for all intents and purposes irrelevant.
aaron125 is offline  
Old 12-18-2012, 03:12 AM
  #12464  
Tech Master
 
malcnz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: CHRISTCHURCH, NewZealand
Posts: 1,339
Default

If that is true then and there is really no cost difference why dont kyosho include the golden HA anodizing in their kits as std? i see tebo, king etc seem to run it std so why cant it be included std?
malcnz is offline  
Old 12-18-2012, 04:19 AM
  #12465  
Tech Adept
 
juninho_foz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: BRASIL
Posts: 106
Default



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
juninho_foz is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.