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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 12-03-2012, 10:42 AM
  #12121  
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Found it.
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Old 12-03-2012, 02:56 PM
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I think the best thing that we have as Tki3 drivers is our cars wont be outdated post worlds and the factory guys are driving exactly what we can buy or own now.

Kanai has released the part numbers for the worlds parts (rear arms, 16deg hub carriers, discs and weights) there are no other parts that the guys are using over there.

The anodizing is annoying I totally agree. When I was in Japan 3 weeks ago I talked to Kanai and the guys about this but he told me its just too expensive to go to the aftermarket anodizing. Sean is spot on about the $$$. The way I look at it is I got 9 months out of my rear bodies, they are pretty worn now and need replacing. Not bad when there is nothing else to add to the kit except pistons....

Our biggest problem might be sourcing shock bodies given how many other cars are running the Kyosho shocks at the worlds. You can bet everyone will be after them even more now!


Engine mounts

I have short mounts and locknuts on my race car just for safety. On my practice car I use the long mounts and I used M4x10mm with red loctite. The mounts have never moved. I have tested this for 6 months now without issue.

Chassis Hole

This mod is also for safety really. I never had an issue with a flameout from chassis hitting the clutchbell but I did have marks on the bell. At FEMCA Kanai drilled a new chassis for me and I have not had marks on the bell since. Its really just a little insurance and it takes 2 min to do. Drill a 12mm hole in the recess thats under the clutchbell. The hole needs to leave about 3mm of material in between the front of the flywheel hole and the 12mm hole you drill.

Photo here http://gallery.neobuggy.net/Archive/...6703&k=9H6nWJw


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Old 12-03-2012, 03:17 PM
  #12123  
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Originally Posted by ben73

Chassis Hole

This mod is also for safety really. I never had an issue with a flameout from chassis hitting the clutchbell but I did have marks on the bell. At FEMCA Kanai drilled a new chassis for me and I have not had marks on the bell since. Its really just a little insurance and it takes 2 min to do. Drill a 12mm hole in the recess thats under the clutchbell. The hole needs to leave about 3mm of material in between the front of the flywheel hole and the 12mm hole you drill.

Photo here http://gallery.neobuggy.net/Archive/...6703&k=9H6nWJw


Ben
Regarding the hole... I just drilled my new chassis a few days ago and went a little big on the hole. There is 1.5 maybe 2mm of material left. What kind of problems should I expect?
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:22 PM
  #12124  
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Those are even kyosho springs
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:55 PM
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I want to run the car, and I had one in the cart as of last night. I just feel for $850 they could of put the different shock bodies in the kit along with the short engine mounts. At JBRL in Palm Desert (2011) it was 118 by 1pm the heat from the sun and engine caused my mounts to move. I believe Kyosho is dedicated to making a top notch racing machine but they also can be stubborn to changes. The universals should be 92mm long. I had three DNF's from failure not crashes. The expensive parts don't bother, not even the cost of the kit. If I'm going to pay another $850 for a kit I need all the lil bugs to be worked out... The funny thing is I really want the TKI3.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:58 PM
  #12126  
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New rear arms, 16deg hub carriers, discs and weights...

OK, I AM READY TO ORDER THE NEW PARTS ABOVE.. Where do I order?
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:12 PM
  #12127  
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Originally Posted by McD44
Regarding the hole... I just drilled my new chassis a few days ago and went a little big on the hole. There is 1.5 maybe 2mm of material left. What kind of problems should I expect?
what you can expect is that small piece of aluminium will eventually crack when you hit something hard enough.

just leave a little more aluminium there next time.

Its also worth mentioning that this hole is best drilled with a stepped drill bit. it makes this job much easier
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by McD44
Regarding the hole... I just drilled my new chassis a few days ago and went a little big on the hole. There is 1.5 maybe 2mm of material left. What kind of problems should I expect?
i would say youll be fine ive seen guys completely remove the relief area under the bell with no ill affects.
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:16 PM
  #12129  
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Originally Posted by BIGTIME
I want to run the car, and I had one in the cart as of last night. I just feel for $850 they could of put the different shock bodies in the kit along with the short engine mounts. At JBRL in Palm Desert (2011) it was 118 by 1pm the heat from the sun and engine caused my mounts to move. I believe Kyosho is dedicated to making a top notch racing machine but they also can be stubborn to changes. The universals should be 92mm long. I had three DNF's from failure not crashes. The expensive parts don't bother, not even the cost of the kit. If I'm going to pay another $850 for a kit I need all the lil bugs to be worked out... The funny thing is I really want the TKI3.
I dont know if this helps you make the decision but the car is bulletproof. Take the advice of those that offer a few tips in terms of small mods and utilise them.

I had ZERO dnf's all year. ZERO. That pretty good in my books. I raced in 20+ large meetings here in Asia all with 30 minute semis and 60 minute mains. The car did not fail once.

Its never popped a Uni, engine mount never loosened up and I ran the stock shock bodies all year. And I was competitive in every race......

Its money worth spending.

ps. if you are wanting to put locknuts on the engine mounts you dont need to buy other ones. I just hit the kit ones with the dremel and they work fine with locknuts
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:46 PM
  #12130  
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Inferno MP9 thread-img_0041-s.jpg
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me

Frankly, I think a rule should be in place for the Worlds requiring manufacturers to run out-of-the-box vehicles with only 2-5% changes allowed (a Ti screw kit, hubs or maybe another small part). The kit should have to have been released to the public for 1 month prior to the event, and all parts on the entered cars should have to be readily available to the public at the time of the event. But that's just my opinion, I'm sure others may feel differently.

But back to Kyosho business - the Kyosho team looks very fast and are going to be tough to beat in Argentina...look out!

I agree with you Sean, knowing that manufacturers have all year to build and tweak a car to perfection and then show up to the race with some hybrid Kyosho car seems lazy to me. Then what happens if they win? False advertising if you ask me because I know that like in all or most Motorsports what wins on sunday sells on monday... and what you would be buying on monday is not even close! I am however amazed with how well the Kyosho's handle right out of the box I recently bought a Durango and worked on the setup for a couple of day to no good result. Then, I drive my friends mp9 and the difference was staggering. Like our local track guru said you can work on the setup all you want but you will not have the authority. One of the first things I noticed in driving the MP9 was just that you can put the car where you want it and it will stick.

I like it so much I just bout the STRR and am selling everything else!
Proud member of the red army now.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:31 PM
  #12132  
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So pathetic how all the other manufacturers are running 50% kyosho parts

Anyhow, I've got this shock absorber conundrum.
Already planning ahead for 2013 so I bought a TKi3. Out of the box it handled pretty good, with the stock pistons I had a lot of grip, but on the corners it would sort of list over to the one side and lift the rear wheel up, and thereby drop all the rear grip. On power in corners though it was still allright.

So I went with the 1.3x8 pistons everyone on here recommends. Then it seems a lot harder in the rear, I'm guessing I have to go with a lot softer oils or what?
With the stock pistons I was running 400 oils in the rear and it was soft.
With the upgrade 1.3x8's I ran 35wt (different brand) and it was hard as hell.

Anyone got any input on how soft you have to go before it gives sort of the same action?
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:38 PM
  #12133  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
So pathetic how all the other manufacturers are running 50% kyosho parts

Anyhow, I've got this shock absorber conundrum.
Already planning ahead for 2013 so I bought a TKi3. Out of the box it handled pretty good, with the stock pistons I had a lot of grip, but on the corners it would sort of list over to the one side and lift the rear wheel up, and thereby drop all the rear grip. On power in corners though it was still allright.

So I went with the 1.3x8 pistons everyone on here recommends. Then it seems a lot harder in the rear, I'm guessing I have to go with a lot softer oils or what?
With the stock pistons I was running 400 oils in the rear and it was soft.
With the upgrade 1.3x8's I ran 35wt (different brand) and it was hard as hell.

Anyone got any input on how soft you have to go before it gives sort of the same action?
Im running 450 in the rear and 650 up front with the 1.3x8's seems to be the setup around these parts!
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:50 PM
  #12134  
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Originally Posted by BIGTIME
I want to run the car, and I had one in the cart as of last night. I just feel for $850 they could of put the different shock bodies in the kit along with the short engine mounts. At JBRL in Palm Desert (2011) it was 118 by 1pm the heat from the sun and engine caused my mounts to move. I believe Kyosho is dedicated to making a top notch racing machine but they also can be stubborn to changes. The universals should be 92mm long. I had three DNF's from failure not crashes. The expensive parts don't bother, not even the cost of the kit. If I'm going to pay another $850 for a kit I need all the lil bugs to be worked out... The funny thing is I really want the TKI3.
I was at that JBRL '11 Palm Desert race. No car is designed to handle that abuse. With that said, I won the Int. Buggy A-main with my MP9 TKI2. I appreciate your thoughts on the shock bodies, but the reality is that they simply cannot. Exchange rates are something often over-looked, and Kyosho is at the mercy of the anodizer in terms of pricing. It is what it is, and I understand your expectations, but if something cosmetic really truly bothers you that much, buy the aftermarket bodies from day one.

I respectfully disagree, the shafts don't need to be 92mm. I've never, and I mean never had anything happen in the rear to make me think I needed longer shafts. 93s should come in the kit up front, but in all honesty, I run my MP9 TKI3 converted e-buggy with 91s all around and I've yet to pop anything or break drive-line parts. I've run em on my nitro car also with only one pop out in 2 yrs and it was a neutral drop from about 10 feet up.

Did you ever contact Kyosho America regarding your failures and explain the situation? Their customer service is top-notch and I'm sure they'd be happy to work with you.

You can buy the Kyosho now, or buy something else, buy Kyosho shocks/springs, any upgrades like aluminum rear hubs absent from said kits, sell that car to buy a Kyosho and be in the hole a lot more than $850. There is no such thing as a perfect "issue free" car, but the Kyosho is as damn close as you're gonna get.

Next time you're at the track with me, come up and say hey, I don't know if I know you or not. I'll hand over my transmitter to you and I'll take the Pepsi challenge with any car you want in the pits - friendly wager says you will like mine better.

Originally Posted by Afun
New rear arms, 16deg hub carriers, discs and weights...

OK, I AM READY TO ORDER THE NEW PARTS ABOVE.. Where do I order?
Not available as of now...soon I imagine.

Originally Posted by Eivind E
So pathetic how all the other manufacturers are running 50% kyosho parts

Anyhow, I've got this shock absorber conundrum.
Already planning ahead for 2013 so I bought a TKi3. Out of the box it handled pretty good, with the stock pistons I had a lot of grip, but on the corners it would sort of list over to the one side and lift the rear wheel up, and thereby drop all the rear grip. On power in corners though it was still allright.

So I went with the 1.3x8 pistons everyone on here recommends. Then it seems a lot harder in the rear, I'm guessing I have to go with a lot softer oils or what?
With the stock pistons I was running 400 oils in the rear and it was soft.
With the upgrade 1.3x8's I ran 35wt (different brand) and it was hard as hell.

Anyone got any input on how soft you have to go before it gives sort of the same action?
What setup are you running? Size of rear sway bars, rear camber link positions, springs, shock position, rear hub position? For oils, I'd recommend starting at 30-32.5. I don't think I've ever gone up to 35 unless it's really hot out.

By comparison, the kit pistons, the SP angled hole pistons, should yield more pack than the straight hole pistons of the same hole size. But it's more of a progressive pack so it might feel a tad softer initially. To me, the car always seems more consistent with the straight hole pistons, just what I feel anyway.

I'm gonna be at work for a while longer, and I'm bored so fire away guys
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:57 PM
  #12135  
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After reading Neobuggy for several days, it looks like this worlds may be the worst ever. We could still hope for good competition, but its lacking the enthusiasm and interest 1/8th usually brings. I know Thailand put on a good show two years ago. Thailand on the other hand, has RC manufacturing and are heavy into the hobby. How did Argentina get picked? Serious discussion will begin after this Worlds to where and if the current Ifmar strategy will exist. These companies that sponsor the racers have to get involved and help Ifmar make the right moves. The U.S.A, England, and Italy are all good for RC. Lets keep it simple. This hobby is expensive, and hard for the public eye to see. Lets grow it to the best of our ability. My two cents. I am upset I have not been able to see any live action.
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