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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 11-26-2012, 12:10 PM
  #12031  
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I WANT TO share this.. so you who do you spot in this video..


http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x8j...986-parti_auto



It will be around the 5:00 mark. WOW the good old days.


OMG i seen michael phelps Dad in the video too. hahahah
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:11 PM
  #12032  
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Yankee World Champs 1986


http://rcspecial.com/news/?p=117075

Good info

Very good memory, I was not involved but I had a lot of pictures It was the year Hinge for Yankee who started 10 years earlier stages TT thermal eighth iem. The Japanese who were there not been inactive following years, the French market was invaded by the concurrency Asia.

Last edited by Motorman007; 11-26-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:19 PM
  #12033  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Ok, there's two types of rear hubs. There's a "standard" set, which were standard on the earlier MP9 kits:

IFW410

And these are the 2mm offset hubs which are now standard in the MP9 TKI3 kits:

IFW414

I believe the kits come with these in the rear for wheel hexes:

IFW326GM

They're 1mm narrower than the ones in the front, which are these:

IFW107GM

We typically run the IFW107s in the rear as well as front. The narrower hubs will help lock the rear in a little bit more. Hope that clears it up a bit for you.

Ok Sean, let me double check this. I ordered a set of the IFW107GM hubs to go on the rear of my buggy to replace the narrow ones when I build it! Now, what is the main handling characteristic of going from the skinny to the wider hexes? Are you saying the wider hexes will free up the rear of the buggy, and running the narrower hexes the buggy will essentially have more grip and feel more under the buggy? Can you tell a big difference from switching hexes?
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:14 PM
  #12034  
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Originally Posted by mjealey
Ok Sean, let me double check this. I ordered a set of the IFW107GM hubs to go on the rear of my buggy to replace the narrow ones when I build it! Now, what is the main handling characteristic of going from the skinny to the wider hexes? Are you saying the wider hexes will free up the rear of the buggy, and running the narrower hexes the buggy will essentially have more grip and feel more under the buggy? Can you tell a big difference from switching hexes?
The difference between the two hubs is pretty minor, but there is a difference. The wider hubs should give you a little more grip at corner entry, and also have more high speed on-throttle steering. The narrower hubs will give you a bit more grip on corner exit, and will make the buggy more prone to high speed understeer (borrowed from the Hudy setup guide).

This really isn't something I ever tune with; I've gone to the narrower hubs once as a last resort type option to get a bit more grip on power out of slower corners. The car overall will feel a tad more stable with the wider hubs out back, which is what I prefer.
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:24 PM
  #12035  
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Originally Posted by adrictan
Which Clutch Removal tool do u use on yr MP9 clutch?
i just ordered this one http://www.infernosonly.com/Racer_s_..._p/rce7074.htm
but befor this piece i used a small screw driver or needle nose pliers. i hope this works
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:30 PM
  #12036  
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hey sean do u have a setup for a high traction indoor track???
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:26 PM
  #12037  
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
hey sean do u have a setup for a high traction indoor track???
Not really, I have an ebuggy that I've been meaning to run indoors here, but haven't had a chance yet. I'd probably look to make the car more agressive - drop the front kickup to 9 (be sure to use the 9 upper arm bushing in the front and adjust the arm spacing plastic clips), go to max caster setting (ends up being -1 deg caster from base setup with the reduced kickup, busing in c-hub is with hole in bottom), start with light blue springs all around and maybe go to greys in front, 2.5 sway bars all the way around, maybe 7/7/5 in the diffs. I'd do the front first, then the center, then the rear. I'd also investigate the rear hub position and play with that a bit. I would probably make the front kickup change first along with the caster, then go from there changing one thing at a time.

All this being said, I'd start with the baseline setup with the rear hubs in the middle and I'd only really make changes if I was severely lacking on more than just one section of the track. Just my two cents.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:52 PM
  #12038  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Not really, I have an ebuggy that I've been meaning to run indoors here, but haven't had a chance yet. I'd probably look to make the car more agressive - drop the front kickup to 9 (be sure to use the 9 upper arm bushing in the front and adjust the arm spacing plastic clips), go to max caster setting (ends up being -1 deg caster from base setup with the reduced kickup, busing in c-hub is with hole in bottom), start with light blue springs all around and maybe go to greys in front, 2.5 sway bars all the way around, maybe 7/7/5 in the diffs. I'd do the front first, then the center, then the rear. I'd also investigate the rear hub position and play with that a bit. I would probably make the front kickup change first along with the caster, then go from there changing one thing at a time.

All this being said, I'd start with the baseline setup with the rear hubs in the middle and I'd only really make changes if I was severely lacking on more than just one section of the track. Just my two cents.
i did sean, the car was ok, the buggy wanted to roll over hard in the turns, i ran the book setup with long wheelbase. 45wt ft 30 in the rear. and the track is hard on tires!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. i ran a set of older aka grid iron, soft. and smoked them in 4 tanks.(bald)!!!!

so i changed the upper arm to the lower setting. and this time soft impacts
and shorted the wheelbase to 2mm in ft of the hub an 3mm in back. i do have a set of grey springs now, and i like the wide hex hub in the rear. it makes the car feel more locked in.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:14 PM
  #12039  
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
i just ordered this one http://www.infernosonly.com/Racer_s_..._p/rce7074.htm
but befor this piece i used a small screw driver or needle nose pliers. i hope this works
You should quit being so hard headed and buy another clutch it would make life much easier
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:32 PM
  #12040  
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Originally Posted by evolution03
You should quit being so hard headed and buy another clutch it would make life much easier
i got also most 2 gallons on the stock shoes and the 9.5 springs.
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:50 PM
  #12041  
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
i did sean, the car was ok, the buggy wanted to roll over hard in the turns, i ran the book setup with long wheelbase. 45wt ft 30 in the rear. and the track is hard on tires!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. i ran a set of older aka grid iron, soft. and smoked them in 4 tanks.(bald)!!!!

so i changed the upper arm to the lower setting. and this time soft impacts
and shorted the wheelbase to 2mm in ft of the hub an 3mm in back. i do have a set of grey springs now, and i like the wide hex hub in the rear. it makes the car feel more locked in.
Look at your camber. If it's really high grip, try -3 in the rear. Also look at going to larger sway bars.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Look at your camber. If it's really high grip, try -3 in the rear. Also look at going to larger sway bars.
will do sean, the first time on the track i ran -1 front an -2
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:26 AM
  #12043  
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
i just ordered this one http://www.infernosonly.com/Racer_s_..._p/rce7074.htm
but befor this piece i used a small screw driver or needle nose pliers. i hope this works

Oops... I misphrased my qn. I'm asking abt the flywheel removal tool advice.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:57 AM
  #12044  
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
hey sean do u have a setup for a high traction indoor track???
I've been using Tebo's indoor setup at WCRC (high traction indoor track). Granted it is for a tki3 electric conversion, but it works well. Might be a place to start if you are running nitro.

http://www.infernosonly.com/v/vspfil...Coast_2012.pdf
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:02 AM
  #12045  
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Does anybody use a torque wrench to tighten their flywheel nut?

Is there a recommended torque?

Thanks
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