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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 11-15-2012, 05:36 PM
  #11926  
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I use 93mm shafts front and rear without problems. You can also flip driveshafts from left to right when the pins wear. This will allow you some extra use.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:16 PM
  #11927  
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Originally Posted by Energyzer
But more weight on the wheels (or as near to them as possible) should help keeping them in contact with the track, thus giving you more overall traction. I guess...

Isn't the advantage of unsprung weight, related to the fact that, when the buggy turns, it leans to one of the sides making the chassis roll. The more weight you have the more the chassis will roll (more or less, because you have other variables involved). Isn't it so? And since those weights are not "connected" to the suspension they won't make the chassis roll/wash out. Right?
The unsprung weight has no effect on how much the chassis will roll. It simply effects the speed at which the suspension operates. The more unsprung weight, the slower the suspension will react; the more "calm" a car will feel. 8th scales buggys react so quick to input, even with low roll center settings, and increasing shock oil weights and springs can only get you so far before they take you completely away from an effective setting. So adding the unsprung weight makes complete sense....to me at least

Definitely a cool application in our hobby and the parts look awesome. Just not sure they would be applicable to the typical motocross style tracks here in the states. I could be way out in left field with this, but my 1:1 racing days proved as I described above.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:58 PM
  #11928  
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From Red RC:

"Kyosho mastermind Yuichi Kanai has released a handful of pictures of suspension weights for the MP9 1/8th buggy in the wake of the upcoming 1/8th nitro buggy World Championships in Argentina. The parts are clamped to the front steering knuckles and rear uprights using set screws. Although automotive textbooks explain that adding weight to unsprung parts such as suspension components is a bad idea pre-Worlds testing revealed that the additional weight may help with one-track performance and drivability. Although the 10g and 15g parts sport a part number it is not clear if they are a one-off for the meeting or if they will hit the stores later."
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:15 PM
  #11929  
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Besides flipping shafts side to side like mkorn suggested above, you can always buy these:

IF144

Remove the pins, then install em. Someone posted this solution a while ago, so credit goes to whoever did that
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:36 PM
  #11930  
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any body had a new chassis out of the kit that is cracked around the edge all the way around.
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:51 PM
  #11931  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Besides flipping shafts side to side like mkorn suggested above, you can always buy these:

IF144

Remove the pins, then install em. Someone posted this solution a while ago, so credit goes to whoever did that
these pins do work i have used them
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:51 PM
  #11932  
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Originally Posted by kbmb
any body had a new chassis out of the kit that is cracked around the edge all the way around.
please post pics of this if u can ?????
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:52 PM
  #11933  
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Originally Posted by evolution03
these pins do work i have used them
i am getting ready to order some of them.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:44 PM
  #11934  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Besides flipping shafts side to side like mkorn suggested above, you can always buy these:

IF144

Remove the pins, then install em. Someone posted this solution a while ago, so credit goes to whoever did that
Thanks for the credit Sean I should have put the part number up again but I just get tired of repeating myself, probably cause I'm lazy

Guys if you need info like this just use the search function up top to save hours going back through the threads.

Last edited by smelly62; 11-15-2012 at 08:51 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:59 AM
  #11935  
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guys, I'm new to the MP9 TKI3 help me with setup for this track ... thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LASol...ature=youtu.be
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:26 AM
  #11936  
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Originally Posted by smelly62
Thanks for the credit Sean I should have put the part number up again but I just get tired of repeating myself, probably cause I'm lazy
I probably could have searched for your original post, but I'm lazy too

Originally Posted by juninho_foz
guys, I'm new to the MP9 TKI3 help me with setup for this track ... thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LASol...ature=youtu.be
Your best best is to start with this:

Cody King 2010 Worlds Setup

This will give you a great baseline, then make small incremental adjustments one at a time from there.
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Old 11-17-2012, 06:50 AM
  #11937  
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What body comes with the TKI3?
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:38 PM
  #11938  
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Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
What body comes with the TKI3?
my kit came with just a regular kyosho body not a cab forward one i dont think they come with kits
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Old 11-17-2012, 01:47 PM
  #11939  
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No matter what body it comes with the mp9 is one badass machine
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by kbmb
any body had a new chassis out of the kit that is cracked around the edge all the way around.

Yep, a TKI2 kit chassis (dark brown version) which I bought from ebay brand-new had this exact same problem - there was a (deep looking) 0.5mm-1mm deep crack or cracks going around the entire perimeter of the chassis, most obvious at the front kickup bend. I sent it back to the seller and they sent me a replacement which was perfect, exactly as it should have been.
Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
What body comes with the TKI3?
It comes with the TKI2 body shell, but it's a *very* slightly different body from the original TKI2 shell.

Both shells, TKI2 and TKI3 have the same part number and even the same text molded into the back of the shell, on the rearmost vertical panel, which is cut-out and not used, located at the very back of the shell.

The only difference that I can see between the original TKI2 shell and the version supplied with TKI3 kits is that the TKI3 kit shells have 2 holes (or at least the little bumps indicating where to ream out the hole) for the aerial, one in the usual position and another a bit further back, lining up with the new position of the aerial when using the TKI3 RX box. Also, all of the little indicator bumps for the aerial holes and for the front and rear body posts are much more obvious and a lot easier to see/locate.

Both TKI2 and TKI3 shells are the same IFB005 and have "MP-9 II" and "37-154" imprinted on the rearmost vertical portion of the shell (the part which is cut out and not used once the shell is mounted on the car).

Originally Posted by evolution03
my kit came with just a regular kyosho body not a cab forward one i dont think they come with kits
AFAIK, no TKI3 kit is yet being supplied with the new IFB006 'cab forward' style shell.

And speaking of MP9 body shells, does anyone at all have even the slightest clue or idea why the front left corner of the body, just in front of the fuel tank hole, has that strange looking square/triangular bit sticking out, unlike the right side of the body, which is nice and smooth, as one would expect both sides should be? And what are the 2 little bulging areas on the right side of the body for? One is right next to the original aerial hole position, the other is just forward of that, popping out of the window area?? What are they for? I've never been able to figure this out.
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