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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 09-10-2012, 12:51 PM
  #11401  
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one more question: the MP9 doesn't use springs to keep the brake ads apart. Wouldn't this cause some sticking? Would it hurt if I put springs between the pads?
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by pointforward
one more question: the MP9 doesn't use springs to keep the brake ads apart. Wouldn't this cause some sticking? Would it hurt if I put springs between the pads?
I dont see why you couldnt just have to make sure then can compress enough that your brakes will still engage. I have a buggy who put springs in the brakes of his 8ight 2.0's and it works great. I've thought about trying it just haven't gotten to it yet. As far as the brakes sticking on without springs on the pads I personally haven't had any problems with that so far. (knock on wood)
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:35 PM
  #11403  
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I use the answer rc brake springs in between my pads and they work great. No issues at all.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:47 PM
  #11404  
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Originally Posted by pointforward
This MP9 thread is probably one of the most intelligently-participated ones on RCTech, and thank you for that. Just a scan of the past couple of pages has already taught me much (and now cause me to order some more on AMain!).

I recently acquired a used TKI2 here, put the 1.3x8 white pistons on it with 600-400 cst oils in it, and initially blue springs front and back for a medium grip, rutty, bumpy, technical track. After running it that way, I found that it got a bit too unsettled on the ruts, and had a bit of understeer. I changed the springs to greens, but also changed the stabs to 2.8 front and 2.5 rear for the A main. After starting 4th on the grid, I managed to take the lead in the first lap, which I held for about 20 minutes, which I also managed without once needing to be marshalled. After thinking what a glorious run it would be to win the A main on my first full drive of the K car, alas, I jinxed myself, turned over, marshal took to long to pick me up, and I flamed out.

Got back out, but by that time was chasing, and managed to break the rear universal (broke right through), ran down got that replaced in about 2 minutes, had the left rear hinge pin come out (rear diff case threads for the long screws holding the rear bracket were already worn out, causing the bracket to come out), fixed that in 3 minutes, came back out to finish the race.

Well, it was a second hand car, but it sure felt great! Needless to say, I've now got a new TKI3 on the way (is AMain a publicly listed company?), and I'd like to thank (blame for my recent poverty) BenP, CJ, and the McBrides for making me a believer of the K.

Questions:

- are the usual pro set-ups good for this type of track too?
- what can be used to replace the drive pins, which are 2.9mm as opposed to the usual 3mm ones?
- are 2.8/2.5 sways just right for this car? I'm used to a serpent for which this would be way too much.
- is a frog's ass watertight?


CaptainHowdyt13: I emailed the French Kyosho store about ordering from the Philippines which isn't on their drop down menu, and they replied promptly that they'll address my situation. I'm sure if you drop them a note they'll reply quickly as well.

Thanks.
Most people us Cody Kings setup as a baseline start
You can use the Mugen or Hudy pin removal kit and buy KYOIF144. Just remove the pins from KYOIF144 and insert them into your driveshafts.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:46 PM
  #11405  
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Originally Posted by pointforward
one more question: the MP9 doesn't use springs to keep the brake ads apart. Wouldn't this cause some sticking? Would it hurt if I put springs between the pads?
go ahead and use them I do
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:51 PM
  #11406  
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Originally Posted by pointforward
one more question: the MP9 doesn't use springs to keep the brake ads apart. Wouldn't this cause some sticking? Would it hurt if I put springs between the pads?
It wont hurt to put springs in between the pads but it's not needed.

One thing I like to do is to file a small chamfer around the outer edge of the brake pads to keep the brakes operating smoothly.

After a while a lip forms on the pads and the brakes become erratic causing lap times to increase.

To test the brakes just trim the radio or turn the servo so the brakes are slightly grabbing and then rotate the brakes to check for smoothness.

Last edited by smelly62; 09-11-2012 at 02:46 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:40 PM
  #11407  
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Cody's Website

Click on Setups, then on the 2010 worlds setup. The only changes I would make to this setup, depending on your track conditions, like say a track with not as much traction as Pattaya, is to run a 2.3 sway bar up front, and adjust your hub spacing in the rear. Hub spacing is often overlooked and 1mm of adjustment makes a huge difference in how the car feels. The less traction there is, the further forward the rear hubs should be, i.e. less spacers up front, more behind the hubs. I usually run either 1/4 f/r or 2/3 f/r on lower traction tracks.

Also with regards to clutch setup - make sure you use the small shims that come with the clutch shoes, I forget who it was a few pages back that said they forgot them then added them and their problems went away. The shoes need to be spaced off the flywheel so they can expand freely. Try using the blue aluminum clutch shoes for a little more bite on the bottom:

Blue Aluminum Clutch Shoes - IFW136

And for clutch bell/spur gear mesh. I had no idea this was even possible, but PK showed me the light last weekend. I had my mounts shifted as far over as possible, and still didn't have a tight enough mesh (13/46 gearing). PK told me that the final mesh should be set from the top, with the screws that bolt the engine to the mounts. He loosened them slightly, used a pair of needle nose from the bottom of the chassis and wedged the clutch bell over a bit. If it was too much, he wedged it the other way. Back and forth a few times, and it was perfect. Tightened the engine mount screws on top and that was that. I never knew this little trick and thought it would be helpful for anyone on here.
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:14 PM
  #11408  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Cody's Website

Click on Setups, then on the 2010 worlds setup. The only changes I would make to this setup, depending on your track conditions, like say a track with not as much traction as Pattaya, is to run a 2.3 sway bar up front, and adjust your hub spacing in the rear. Hub spacing is often overlooked and 1mm of adjustment makes a huge difference in how the car feels. The less traction there is, the further forward the rear hubs should be, i.e. less spacers up front, more behind the hubs. I usually run either 1/4 f/r or 2/3 f/r on lower traction tracks.

Also with regards to clutch setup - make sure you use the small shims that come with the clutch shoes, I forget who it was a few pages back that said they forgot them then added them and their problems went away. The shoes need to be spaced off the flywheel so they can expand freely. Try using the blue aluminum clutch shoes for a little more bite on the bottom:

Blue Aluminum Clutch Shoes - IFW136

And for clutch bell/spur gear mesh. I had no idea this was even possible, but PK showed me the light last weekend. I had my mounts shifted as far over as possible, and still didn't have a tight enough mesh (13/46 gearing). PK told me that the final mesh should be set from the top, with the screws that bolt the engine to the mounts. He loosened them slightly, used a pair of needle nose from the bottom of the chassis and wedged the clutch bell over a bit. If it was too much, he wedged it the other way. Back and forth a few times, and it was perfect. Tightened the engine mount screws on top and that was that. I never knew this little trick and thought it would be helpful for anyone on here.
This clears up my confusion.... Everyone keep on saying to use Cody's as baseline setup. But He's got some setup there and I don't know which one everyone's are referring to....
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:16 PM
  #11409  
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Default Rear Wheel Hub Offset

Excuse my noob question, but which rear hub carrier is coming standard with TKI3 kit? The alum normal one or Alum -2 offset?
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:06 AM
  #11410  
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Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Excuse my noob question, but which rear hub carrier is coming standard with TKI3 kit? The alum normal one or Alum -2 offset?
you tell us

IFW410

or

IFW414

(it's IFW414)
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:55 AM
  #11411  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
you tell us

IFW410

or

IFW414

(it's IFW414)
Okey Dokey You saved my wallet, I almost bought another -2 carrier Thanks mate...
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:57 AM
  #11412  
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Originally Posted by pointforward
one more question: the MP9 doesn't use springs to keep the brake ads apart. Wouldn't this cause some sticking? Would it hurt if I put springs between the pads?
Me too have been wondering about this. If you take off the engine and push the car back and forth, you'll feel that the brake pad is prone to sticking interminently.....If this is happening while we push the car by hand, I am sure this also happen while on track.....
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Old 09-11-2012, 03:11 AM
  #11413  
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Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Me too have been wondering about this. If you take off the engine and push the car back and forth, you'll feel that the brake pad is prone to sticking interminently.....If this is happening while we push the car by hand, I am sure this also happen while on track.....
if your brakes are dragging with the engine in or out you have not set them correctly. Your Kyosho should spin its wheels for ages and ages if you spin them by hand.

an easy way to check your settings is turn on your radio and servos and if the brakes are grabbing you need to reset the servo and linkages.

Take you time, set the neutral point on the servo and make sure your carb is fully closed also. then you can set throttle EPA.

After that adjust the brake linkages so you only need to dial in a small amount of EPA like 40% to produce your desired max braking. You can adjust the brakes manually with the thumb screws for bias and also the link stoppers on the other end. Make sure with the servo at neutral the spring or fuel tube you use is not being engaged. It should be close being engaged but not touching.

If your brakes are engaging at neutral you need to back this off just a fraction and they should free up. Also make sure you have set the caliper correctly on the centre diff housing, there should be enough room for the pad in there if you have it set right. check manual for settings

The throttle/brake linkage on a buggy is super critical, there is a lot going on in terms of throttle/brake settings and if one is slightly off it makes the car REALLY hard to drive. I would suggest anyone with questions on this seek the advice of someone who can help you.

A little guidance here will make a big difference for you. Make sure you watch and learn as you will be setting/checking these linkages all the time.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:30 AM
  #11414  
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Originally Posted by ben73
if your brakes are dragging with the engine in or out you have not set them correctly. Your Kyosho should spin its wheels for ages and ages if you spin them by hand.

an easy way to check your settings is turn on your radio and servos and if the brakes are grabbing you need to reset the servo and linkages.

Take you time, set the neutral point on the servo and make sure your carb is fully closed also. then you can set throttle EPA.

After that adjust the brake linkages so you only need to dial in a small amount of EPA like 40% to produce your desired max braking. You can adjust the brakes manually with the thumb screws for bias and also the link stoppers on the other end. Make sure with the servo at neutral the spring or fuel tube you use is not being engaged. It should be close being engaged but not touching.

If your brakes are engaging at neutral you need to back this off just a fraction and they should free up. Also make sure you have set the caliper correctly on the centre diff housing, there should be enough room for the pad in there if you have it set right. check manual for settings

The throttle/brake linkage on a buggy is super critical, there is a lot going on in terms of throttle/brake settings and if one is slightly off it makes the car REALLY hard to drive. I would suggest anyone with questions on this seek the advice of someone who can help you.

A little guidance here will make a big difference for you. Make sure you watch and learn as you will be setting/checking these linkages all the time.
Yes I had my brakes locking up at 60% EPA, I could adjust it to 40% but I felt that is too close for my comfort. I have looked at it closely and I actually had my servo tray out when I rocked the car. What causes the intermitent sticking (not all the time) is the pad is not pushed back to fully without help of a spring. I had the distance setup properly by the manual and digital caliper.
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:03 AM
  #11415  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Cody's Website

Click on Setups, then on the 2010 worlds setup. The only changes I would make to this setup, depending on your track conditions, like say a track with not as much traction as Pattaya, is to run a 2.3 sway bar up front, and adjust your hub spacing in the rear. Hub spacing is often overlooked and 1mm of adjustment makes a huge difference in how the car feels. The less traction there is, the further forward the rear hubs should be, i.e. less spacers up front, more behind the hubs. I usually run either 1/4 f/r or 2/3 f/r on lower traction tracks.

Also with regards to clutch setup - make sure you use the small shims that come with the clutch shoes, I forget who it was a few pages back that said they forgot them then added them and their problems went away. The shoes need to be spaced off the flywheel so they can expand freely. Try using the blue aluminum clutch shoes for a little more bite on the bottom:

Blue Aluminum Clutch Shoes - IFW136

And for clutch bell/spur gear mesh. I had no idea this was even possible, but PK showed me the light last weekend. I had my mounts shifted as far over as possible, and still didn't have a tight enough mesh (13/46 gearing). PK told me that the final mesh should be set from the top, with the screws that bolt the engine to the mounts. He loosened them slightly, used a pair of needle nose from the bottom of the chassis and wedged the clutch bell over a bit. If it was too much, he wedged it the other way. Back and forth a few times, and it was perfect. Tightened the engine mount screws on top and that was that. I never knew this little trick and thought it would be helpful for anyone on here.
Sean,

You or Paul should do a quick youtube video on how to set the mesh the way you're talking about....
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