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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 09-08-2012, 06:32 PM
  #11371  
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EDIT: wrong thread.

Last edited by CaptainHowdyt13; 09-09-2012 at 06:22 AM.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:37 PM
  #11372  
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Originally Posted by Uwiikz
hi All,
Had a maiden track day with the K today, it definitely a crazy nice car to drive, unbelievable stability both on ground and air, lands like a cat, bery very forgiving and fast... I NEVER try a car that drive this nice out of the box....full stop....However, i can use more steering as i always got beaten on tight 180 or chicanes. I also drive well sorted serpent and team c and both crave corner like flipping a book, off course both are well sorted already as i have owned both for months and today was only my first day with the K.

The setup of the K car is box stock except FRONT orange spring, 1.3x6 piston, 500 cst, REAR stock blue spring, 1.3 x8 piston, 475 cst. Everything else box stock.

Any advice to get more steering? Both on and off power... Thanks in advance folks....
Nobody care to share?
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:14 PM
  #11373  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Are you sure your clutch bearings may not be the issue?
Ill be tearing the clutch apart today when I do my cleanup of the car. So Ill check the bearings.

Apart from this problem the car runs and jumps great, Im running the stock set up (shock pistons are the 1,3 x 8 ones front and back). And I have the TKI3 cab-forward-body.
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:49 AM
  #11374  
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Clutch questions

Should you be able to move the clutch bell (Play) or should it be shimmed so there is no play?

When you shim from the clutch bell up to the end of the motor shaft, do you shim past it and then put the screw on, or du you shim so its flush with the end of the motor shaft and then ad the screw?

My clutch bearings seem ok, spinning freely and so, no sticking what so ever. But as I stated before after a few tanks (runs) it sticks. Im missing something, doing something wrong but what?

Be gentle as Im just a beginner
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:54 AM
  #11375  
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Q: "Should you be able to move the clutch bell (Play) or should it be shimmed so there is no play?"

A:
You should always allow for 0.5mm of movement (play), or more if required.

What happens if you leave no play is there's expansion when it heats up, then the bearings will overheat and selfdestruct, and then your clutchbell will wobble about and ultimately grind all it's teeth off. I've had it happen myself even when there was some play - just not enough, it needs to be more than 0.5mm and even up towards 1mm.
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:24 AM
  #11376  
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Originally Posted by hookem34
Recently when resetting my ride height (29/29) I am almost running out of threads on the shock bodies to move the collars down. I recently replaced all my front and rear plastics and my droop is set to 99/118.

I don't notice any adverse affects from this, but it sure looks strange compared to other's K cars. Thoughts?
if you are running lt blue springs then something is a little off.

I would

- remove your new plastics and check for a bent hinge pin
- with shocks off make sure the arms drop nice and free under there own weight with no wheels and hubs on them
- make sure you have your rebound set in the shock as this will make a difference to preload of the spring
- if the springs are really old you need to replace them also

My guess is one or a number of these will fix the issue for you
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:20 AM
  #11377  
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Originally Posted by ben73
if you are running lt blue springs then something is a little off.

I would

- remove your new plastics and check for a bent hinge pin
- with shocks off make sure the arms drop nice and free under there own weight with no wheels and hubs on them
- make sure you have your rebound set in the shock as this will make a difference to preload of the spring
- if the springs are really old you need to replace them also

My guess is one or a number of these will fix the issue for you
Rebuilt shocks with appropriate rebound, running brand new Orange rear springs and fairly new blue front springs (with coating removed), no bent hinge pins and arms are buttery smooth with shocks removed......I can't figure it out

Here is what it currently looks like with ride height set to 28/29:
This is a 11mm gap:


This is a 7mm gap:
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:33 AM
  #11378  
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The gap on my front springs is about the same as yours (mine is converted to run electric) and I run lt blue springs. Just a thought - are they definately rear springs on the rear or could they be fronts?

Edit: I have no idea then lol . Be interested to hear what it is when you work it out. Good luck!

Last edited by Taman; 09-09-2012 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:37 AM
  #11379  
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Originally Posted by Taman
The gap on my front springs is about the same as yours (mine is converted to run electric) and I run lt blue springs. Just a thought - are they definately rear springs on the rear or could they be fronts?
lol.... definitely rears...i checked that too
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:31 AM
  #11380  
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Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Nobody care to share?
not sure what kind of track you run on but i use codys setup as my base setup. all of tebos and codys setups are very close.
http://www.infernosonly.com/v/vspfil...winder_Win.jpg
it could be that u have to much front brake. that will definatly cause a push. but i would try getting the right piston and oil in the car first
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:36 AM
  #11381  
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Originally Posted by hookem34
lol.... definitely rears...i checked that too
Looks like you are running the tall rear shock tower and most likely the long shocks too. So make sure you also use the long rear springs.
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:38 AM
  #11382  
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Originally Posted by evolution03
i never noticed this until you guys brought it up. I looked at my buggy and the rear hubs are more narrow. What would i expect if i put the ones like on the front on rear ?
One thing you could expect is to fail tech inspection There are other ways to reduce the rear traction if you find you have too much with the narrow hubs.

Originally Posted by SEF
I haven't measured how many cc's of fuel each car could hold. I would like to know how close I am to legal limits. I did measure the losi at a race and I was 4 cc below the legal limit of 125 cc. But if it's a fuel capacity issue, I might have to try a little more fuel tubing.

I might also get a 4 shoe clutch with steel flywheel and test it out.
Just use the stock fuel system with the fuel line going around the front body mount like the team drivers and you should be fine.

As for the clutch King, Tebo and I'm sure other team drivers use the stock Kyosho clutch. There are many options eg for more shoe grip use the blue shoes. The silver shoes are the go imo and with the right spring combo (eg 2 x 1.1 and 1 x 1mm spring) these clutches are awesome.
We were at a big race where there was a ton of traction and runtime was an issue. We were running 46/13 gearing with 1.1 springs with blue shoes to get the holeshot we needed but 7 mins was the best we could do. Anyway after going to 48/14 gearing and changing the springs to 1mm with silver shoes we gained over a minute runtime and were able to do 7.5 min pitstops with ease in the 1 hour final.

Originally Posted by LosiPRRACER
just paid for my TKI3...

any building tips etc?
cheers!
Be good to your Mother and she will let you stay up all night building the car

Originally Posted by ben73
also there is a HD front uni, Kanai installed them all on my car at FEMCA. No way anyone is bending one of these new HD centre uni's now
I'm intrigued as we have never bent or broke any centre shafts although the front do wear fast.

Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
front shock tower, rear shock tower, universals (91 HDs). there are also some 93 HDs coming out, an HD rear center uni, a thicker tki3 cab forward body. most all of the changes were to add a little more material (towers, unis, etc).

if you drove a tki2 and a tki3 back to back, you wouldn't know the difference.

redrc broke the news about some new parts coming out a couple days ago.

New Kyosho Parts
Nice

Originally Posted by flap jack
What rx batteries is everyone using in the tki3 and evo truggy.

Thanks
I found some IP 2700 lipo hump packs at RC Mushroom for 18 bucks the other day. They are exactly the same size as protec 2300's.

Originally Posted by KarBro
Clutch questions

Should you be able to move the clutch bell (Play) or should it be shimmed so there is no play?

When you shim from the clutch bell up to the end of the motor shaft, do you shim past it and then put the screw on, or du you shim so its flush with the end of the motor shaft and then ad the screw?

My clutch bearings seem ok, spinning freely and so, no sticking what so ever. But as I stated before after a few tanks (runs) it sticks. Im missing something, doing something wrong but what?

Be gentle as Im just a beginner
I like to shim as tight as possible with the stock Kyosho clutch as the bell butts up to the flywheel and one should always try to have as much of the shoe covered by the bell as possible. I use the large shim supplied along with a 5 x 8 x .1mm shim just to keep the outer race of the bearing off the large shim and then shim to suit on the outer bearing so there is around 1/4mm free play. Doing this you won't have any problems. I have done it this way for years.

Originally Posted by hookem34
Rebuilt shocks with appropriate rebound, running brand new Orange rear springs and fairly new blue front springs (with coating removed), no bent hinge pins and arms are buttery smooth with shocks removed......I can't figure it out

Here is what it currently looks like with ride height set to 28/29:
This is a 11mm gap:


This is a 7mm gap:
Front looks like normal but it looks like you have a TKI1 tower on the back so there is your problem.

Last edited by smelly62; 09-09-2012 at 07:43 AM. Reason: typo's
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:07 AM
  #11383  
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Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Nobody care to share?
+1 on properly set brake bias. Makes a huge difference in the tight turns.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:09 AM
  #11384  
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Hookem, Like everyone has said you have the long rear shock tower, did you buy the long rear threaded shocks or did you buy them off eBay? If you bought those shocks off eBay they are probably the medium rear shocks and are shorter than the ones used for the tower. If they are the long rear shocks then just buy the long rear springs and that's all you need
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:15 AM
  #11385  
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long rear shock tower? hmmmm....I guess that's possible since I bought this as a used TKI2 roller. How can you tell it's the long tower though?

Edit: Just found a pic of the short rear tower....yep, I have the long one with medium shocks.....ha!
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