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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 09-04-2012, 02:19 PM
  #11311  
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Default Aluminum c-HUB

@ Afun:
I have also had an aluminum C hub bend at the same place you did; this weekend as a matter of fact.

I did'nt notice it until I brought the car in to charge the RX pack and noticed the front right camber was WAY off. Neddless to say I was not happy, but what can you do?

Slaped on the plastic ones and kept on racing Ordered some new ones and hope that I just had a fluke crash at the right angle to cause this.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:46 PM
  #11312  
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Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Check if your cushion (small fuel tube) on throttle & brake linkage is turning freely, they should turn freely as not to give any preload to your poor servo, then check if you have too much preload on the return spring on your throttle & brake linkage as well. On neutral with servo and radio on, you should not hear any buzz sound from the servo AT ALL, it should be dead quiet. If after loosening your preload spring and fuel tube cushion you ended up with throttle not closing quick enough on release, simply install rubber band throttle return on your carb (carb return spring won't be strong enough). In my opinion, servo being hit by chassis flex won't kill it that quick, but bad linkage or excessive preload to servo can kill it real quick, been there done that.
Thanks, I will give this a try as well.....
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:12 PM
  #11313  
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Originally Posted by hookem34
@ Afun:
I have also had an aluminum C hub bend at the same place you did; this weekend as a matter of fact.

I did'nt notice it until I brought the car in to charge the RX pack and noticed the front right camber was WAY off. Neddless to say I was not happy, but what can you do?

Slaped on the plastic ones and kept on racing Ordered some new ones and hope that I just had a fluke crash at the right angle to cause this.
Thats terrible. They are about $79 bucks. I was driving the buggy hard, but I did not expect them to bend that way. My camber was way off too. Thats how I figured it out.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:23 PM
  #11314  
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Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Hi All,
I would like to state this upfront, please don't flame me for expressing my opinion and please shine me with your pointers to make this a constructive post. I am not bashing any brand and in fact I am still going to order one despite the problem that I faced today...

I am racing Serpent 811 TE, really really satisfied with my Serpent but was really interested in trying out TKI3 as I like to try out different things, and I have tried a few laps with my mate's TKI2 WC and was really impressed with how the Kyosho handles the track. Today I had an opportunity to build a TKI3 latest batch that my friend bought and asked me to help with building the kit.

Upon opening the box, reading the manual, reviewing the parts, etc, I got my expectation sky high as everything within this kit screams quality. I might argue that the plastic material and metal machining quality of the Serpent is a tad higher but the overall package was really impressive with the TKI3, more than the Serpent.

However, after finished building all the diffs, I began questioning my own ability to build it properly and the fit of the kit as I had problem with fit and smoothness with 2 out of 3 diffs....The rear and front diff are very very tight and very notchy to turn after assembly, I dismantled and reassembled for 3 times both front and rear and still had the same problem, oil is 70-80% filled definitely not too much. I had to back off the 4 screws about half a turn to decrease the tightness and notch and even after that I still felt it's not as smooth as it supposed to be.

I went ahead to assemble the bulkhead and encountered with another problem. The manual indicated to shim gear side of diff to adjust play but it is not possible at all to fit the diff with extra shim attached, I ended up bending the shim and decided not to shim at all.

After finished with rear bulkhead assembly, I tried to turn the driveshaft by hand to test fit and smoothness of the rear bulkhead assembly and was freaked out when one of the diff joint side actually got stuck the the diff case and wouldn't turn, I had to back off the bulkhead screw about half a turn to free it up, and no I don't have Hulk hand and over tighten everything.

Wew so many problem on first bag, did I do anything wrong?? Very confused .... With way too many rave review of TKI3, I know I shouldn't encounter these problem. So the question is, will everything free up after running? Did I do anything wrong or there are some pointers that I missed? I had experience building many kits with various different brands for myself or mate's, I know this is not the worst but definitely not what I should expect from such a high end kit such as Kyosho...

Any advices?

Thanks in advance.
Wow... I just built mine about 2 gallons ago. Several months old. The kit went together so good for me, I could not stop talking about it. I have also gotten so fast with this thing its unreal. The only problem I have had is the stock Uni's kept popping out during some landings. I installed the 93mm Uni's now the problem is gone. Thanks PITPOP for the advice. I have redone the diffs about 6 times. I am still unable to shim the front and rear diff on the non-crown side. I have tried, but still too tight. At first when the diffs went into the housing everything was fairly tight and not as smooth. DRIVE THE CAR A BIT! I promise that drivetrain will turn into the smoothest drivetrain on the planet. Good Luck
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Old 09-04-2012, 05:01 PM
  #11315  
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The diffs being notchy is a good thing and the gears will wear together after a few tanks and will be smooth, the bulkheads being tight is also a good thing if the diffs were loose you would have to keep shimming the diff to make it fit good and you can get the shims in there but you have to make sure the shim is against the bearing and make sure when putting the diff inside the bulkhead that you use a small screw driver to hold the shim against the bearing other wise as soon as you try to put the diff in, the shim will not go inside the bulkead and you will bend it
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:11 PM
  #11316  
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Originally Posted by Jammin57
The diffs being notchy is a good thing and the gears will wear together after a few tanks and will be smooth, the bulkheads being tight is also a good thing if the diffs were loose you would have to keep shimming the diff to make it fit good and you can get the shims in there but you have to make sure the shim is against the bearing and make sure when putting the diff inside the bulkhead that you use a small screw driver to hold the shim against the bearing other wise as soon as you try to put the diff in, the shim will not go inside the bulkead and you will bend it
Don't you think that having to go out of your way with a screw driver to fit this shim in the tightest of spaces is putting a shim in a place that may not be needed? When its too tight like this, I rather not shim. When I redo my diffs I will always check if things have loosened up a bit. Right now I will not shim. PITPOP said sometimes the diffs do not require shimming. I guess all the kits coming off the line will have small variance off size when it comes to all these little plastic pieces. The Kyosho Quality is the best, so the variance will be very small. These are my assumptions. A good edumacated guess.
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:22 PM
  #11317  
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Originally Posted by CoryD
Here is my starting setup; would work pretty well on the track you described; however, there are a few option parts required.

- Normal rear hex hubs (instead of narrow)
- 2.5mm front sway bar

CoryD's Starting Setup

Enjoy,
Thank you very much. By the way, you mentioned about normal rear hex hubs as optional, so what rear hex hubs actually coming with the kit?
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:28 PM
  #11318  
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Compare yr 4 wheel hubs. 2 of them should be the narrower ones.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:48 AM
  #11319  
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Originally Posted by adrictan
Compare yr 4 wheel hubs. 2 of them should be the narrower ones.
Ahhhhh I see.... Thanks a bunch..
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:53 AM
  #11320  
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Originally Posted by Afun
Wow... I just built mine about 2 gallons ago. Several months old. The kit went together so good for me, I could not stop talking about it. I have also gotten so fast with this thing its unreal. The only problem I have had is the stock Uni's kept popping out during some landings. I installed the 93mm Uni's now the problem is gone. Thanks PITPOP for the advice. I have redone the diffs about 6 times. I am still unable to shim the front and rear diff on the non-crown side. I have tried, but still too tight. At first when the diffs went into the housing everything was fairly tight and not as smooth. DRIVE THE CAR A BIT! I promise that drivetrain will turn into the smoothest drivetrain on the planet. Good Luck
Yeap, I can see that happening, it is already loosening after many many turns by hand and the car is 90% finished.....WoW!! Now I would like to edit my statement and would gladly say this car kick some serious ass!!! I never build a car this free....Even the steering linkage is 100% free with the ackerman screw tightened to the max, that never happened to other car before, I had to be careful with ackerman screw with all previous cars....... Very very nice.... I got one on order for myself and will come tomorrow.....
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:07 AM
  #11321  
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Originally Posted by adrictan
Compare yr 4 wheel hubs. 2 of them should be the narrower ones.
What he said.

The narrow hubs, I believe, offer more rear side grip. Somehow this makes the car "feel" less stable to me. I prefer the normal hex hubs as a result.

Regards,
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:53 AM
  #11322  
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Originally Posted by Afun
Don't you think that having to go out of your way with a screw driver to fit this shim in the tightest of spaces is putting a shim in a place that may not be needed? When its too tight like this, I rather not shim. When I redo my diffs I will always check if things have loosened up a bit. Right now I will not shim. PITPOP said sometimes the diffs do not require shimming. I guess all the kits coming off the line will have small variance off size when it comes to all these little plastic pieces. The Kyosho Quality is the best, so the variance will be very small. These are my assumptions. A good edumacated guess.
Nah, I dont....the shim is used to offset the natural inconsistencies with a plastic mold..and if the diff is locked, then that has nothing to do with the shim...it has got to be the screw, as mentioned in an earlier post....happens all the time.....the wrong screw is used and it touches the ring gear...
hope this helps...
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:12 AM
  #11323  
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Hello all.
This is my first post here after reading many times some topics on the forum.
My name is Christophe, I am French and I have a question about the MP9 TKI3.
When looking at a set up sheet, we must make adjustments with the buggy riding position or with the wheels in the air?
Thank you for your help and excuse my modest mastery of your language.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:56 AM
  #11324  
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Originally Posted by SEF
Are most people using the stock clutch?

I'm running stock clutch with aluminum shoes (silver) and 1.0 springs.

Reason I ask, is that I came from running Losi and then Mugen. In the Losi and Mugen, I ran a Nova 21-4C engine both with the same 4 shoe clutch setup using a steel flywheel, and I was easliy able to pit at 10 minutes.

Put the same engine and pipe in my tki3 with the kyosho clutch and I am getting about 45 seconds to a minute less runtime. It must be the clutch, or are others that have run different clutch setups not seeing this type of drop in runtimes?
The kyosho fuel tank is alot smaller than the losi and the mugen. Are you running enough fuel line to make up the difference?
I have been looking for more run time as well. I have been running the kyosho clutch but might have to dig out the werks clutch and try it again.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:15 PM
  #11325  
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Originally Posted by CoryD
What he said.

The narrow hubs, I believe, offer more rear side grip. Somehow this makes the car "feel" less stable to me. I prefer the normal hex hubs as a result.

Regards,
i never noticed this until you guys brought it up. I looked at my buggy and the rear hubs are more narrow. What would i expect if i put the ones like on the front on rear ?
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