Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Inferno MP9 thread >

Inferno MP9 thread

Like Tree1Likes

Inferno MP9 thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

Print Wikipost

Old 09-04-2012, 01:22 AM
  #11296  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Jakarta-Indonesia
Posts: 150
Default

Originally Posted by ATMHOBBY
I was just doing a search for throttle linkage. I have been having some issues with my servos dying, I have only driven the car three times. I love it, but i keep losing servos fro throttle. I am running out of ideas for setup.
I have set the endpoints, and had my setup checked by a team driver. Wondering if anyone has any ideas. Thanks in advance.
Check if your cushion (small fuel tube) on throttle & brake linkage is turning freely, they should turn freely as not to give any preload to your poor servo, then check if you have too much preload on the return spring on your throttle & brake linkage as well. On neutral with servo and radio on, you should not hear any buzz sound from the servo AT ALL, it should be dead quiet. If after loosening your preload spring and fuel tube cushion you ended up with throttle not closing quick enough on release, simply install rubber band throttle return on your carb (carb return spring won't be strong enough). In my opinion, servo being hit by chassis flex won't kill it that quick, but bad linkage or excessive preload to servo can kill it real quick, been there done that.
Uwiikz is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 03:01 AM
  #11297  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
CJ RC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 427
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Uwiikz
after finished building all the diffs, I began questioning my own ability to build it properly and the fit of the kit as I had problem with fit and smoothness with 2 out of 3 diffs....The rear and front diff are very very tight and very notchy to turn after assembly, I dismantled and reassembled for 3 times both front and rear and still had the same problem, oil is 70-80% filled definitely not too much. I had to back off the 4 screws about half a turn to decrease the tightness and notch and even after that I still felt it's not as smooth as it supposed to be.

I went ahead to assemble the bulkhead and encountered with another problem. The manual indicated to shim gear side of diff to adjust play but it is not possible at all to fit the diff with extra shim attached, I ended up bending the shim and decided not to shim at all.

After finished with rear bulkhead assembly, I tried to turn the driveshaft by hand to test fit and smoothness of the rear bulkhead assembly and was freaked out when one of the diff joint side actually got stuck the the diff case and wouldn't turn, I had to back off the bulkhead screw about half a turn to free it up, and no I don't have Hulk hand and over tighten everything.
I dont use the diff shims that comes in the kit I always shim behind the bearings (96644 Kyosho 8x10mm Shim Set) this way the shims dont get lost or bent when doing fluid changes

I run .2 shim inside bearing on diff case side opposite side to the ring gear even this way from new the diffs can still feel a slight notchy but disappears after first trigger pull I have also run .1 each side but the true mesh does not appear until you mount the bulk head to the chassis and all screws are tight so you need to check then

However you shim though you must at least run shims! otherwise the diff will move inside the bulk head!

and I always do a lap of the ring gear with Eureka Pro Gear Lube
CJ RC is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 05:55 AM
  #11298  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (55)
 
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 2,721
Trader Rating: 55 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Afun
Thanks.. I wonder how that Firioni shock tower would do?
thats what I run..works perfect with zero bending issues. still on the tki2 though I believe its fixed on the tki3. had a couple head ons with some truggys with the stock one and one side would bend, the fioroni hasnt budged
Mo Denton is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:03 AM
  #11299  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Jakarta-Indonesia
Posts: 150
Default

Originally Posted by CJ RC
I dont use the diff shims that comes in the kit I always shim behind the bearings (96644 Kyosho 8x10mm Shim Set) this way the shims dont get lost or bent when doing fluid changes

I run .2 shim inside bearing on diff case side opposite side to the ring gear even this way from new the diffs can still feel a slight notchy but disappears after first trigger pull I have also run .1 each side but the true mesh does not appear until you mount the bulk head to the chassis and all screws are tight so you need to check then

However you shim though you must at least run shims! otherwise the diff will move inside the bulk head!

and I always do a lap of the ring gear with Eureka Pro Gear Lube
that's what I thought!! I used to skip gear and chipped tooth without shim on my serpent, and I can tell you, serpent's gear are definitely harder (and heavier)
Uwiikz is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:09 AM
  #11300  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Jakarta-Indonesia
Posts: 150
Default

This has probably been asked a trillion times, but I'd ask again... What base setup should I run with what comes in the box? I heard some people advising to just follow manual box stock setup and tweak from there, but many people also advised to follow Cody's Neobuggy 4/25/2011 setup which is very very close to box stock setup and require no optional parts purchase (aside from piston which is mandatory anyway). The track is packed with super tight 180 turns, hard packed clay with rather thick damp red soil on top in the morning and grooved up very dusty with loose soil after midday, typical Asian track. I don't wanna buy any optional part for now as this is not my car.

Thanks a lot in advance...

Last edited by Uwiikz; 09-04-2012 at 06:37 AM.
Uwiikz is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:20 AM
  #11301  
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
 
305M3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,222
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Hi All,

However, after finished building all the diffs, I began questioning my own ability to build it properly and the fit of the kit as I had problem with fit and smoothness with 2 out of 3 diffs....The rear and front diff are very very tight and very notchy to turn after assembly, I dismantled and reassembled for 3 times both front and rear and still had the same problem, oil is 70-80% filled definitely not too much. I had to back off the 4 screws about half a turn to decrease the tightness and notch and even after that I still felt it's not as smooth as it supposed to be.
I had this happen to me.

Look at page 12 of the TKI2 manual, Step 1. There is a 4x4mm set screw that you MAY have screwed in TOO much. I screwed this in too much and it locked up the diffs just like you are explaining. This screw is there to remove/access the 2.5x13mm shaft. Back this screw out a couple of 1/4 turns until the diffs move smoothly.

Hope this helps.
305M3 is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:36 AM
  #11302  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Jakarta-Indonesia
Posts: 150
Default

Originally Posted by 305M3
I had this happen to me.

Look at page 12 of the TKI2 manual, Step 1. There is a 4x4mm set screw that you MAY have screwed in TOO much. I screwed this in too much and it locked up the diffs just like you are explaining. This screw is there to remove/access the 2.5x13mm shaft. Back this screw out a couple of 1/4 turns until the diffs move smoothly.

Hope this helps.
Thank you for the help, but this was the first thing I looked when I had the problem and it wasn't that. The tightness felt like the bevel gear is not perfectly round or uniform, so it nice and smooth for 1/2 a turn then tight and notchy for 1/4-1/2 turn, and yes, I assembles everything correctly. It was super duper tight before I backed out the gear screw half a turn each on all four, now it's still a bit tight but not binding. I'll try what the other had advised, run it on ground and re check.
Uwiikz is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 07:18 AM
  #11303  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Happy Meal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,137
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Afun
Hey Guys two thumbs down for the Aluminum C Hubs... My first jump 15 seconds into my practice lap I crashed. The buggy did about two cartwheels and landed on its lid. Cracked arm collar bushing. The C-Hub bent in the joint that has the hole to screw on to the knuckle arm. One freakin jump.

You think if I call Kyosho America I could get my money back or maybe even a replacement so I could give it another shot?

I guess I have been driving the buggy harder than ever because I have bent two front shock towers exactly in the same place. Is that Firioni shock tower any stronger? I am getting plenty fast with this car. I love it.
Holy Crap

Ive had a cvd pop out...and I broke a plastic arm, but I had been running the same arms for a year and I wrecked HARD on a severely blow out track....thats it

Everything else is just as strong as anyone elses stuff...

I dont think that meny of us have had the experience that you have had....maybee a bad batch?
Happy Meal is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 07:22 AM
  #11304  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
CoryD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,187
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Happy Meal
I dont think that meny of us have had the experience that you have had....maybee a bad batch?
I've sold those to some of the worlds most awful drivers; and witnessed the worlds most awful crashes. No one has bent the actual c-hub. I would suspect a bad batch and/or a defective piece?

Kyosho America really stands behind their product; I would contact them and see if they can send you a replacement.

Regards,
CoryD is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 07:38 AM
  #11305  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
 
Afun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 2,370
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Mo Denton
thats what I run..works perfect with zero bending issues. still on the tki2 though I believe its fixed on the tki3. had a couple head ons with some truggys with the stock one and one side would bend, the fioroni hasnt budged
Thanks, I am going to buy one but everyone seems out of stock.
Afun is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 07:40 AM
  #11306  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
 
Afun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 2,370
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Happy Meal
Holy Crap

Ive had a cvd pop out...and I broke a plastic arm, but I had been running the same arms for a year and I wrecked HARD on a severely blow out track....thats it

Everything else is just as strong as anyone elses stuff...

I dont think that meny of us have had the experience that you have had....maybee a bad batch?
Its probably just me. I have never wanted to push a buggy so hard before.
Afun is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 10:26 AM
  #11307  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Jakarta-Indonesia
Posts: 150
Default

Originally Posted by Uwiikz
This has probably been asked a trillion times, but I'd ask again... What base setup should I run with what comes in the box? I heard some people advising to just follow manual box stock setup and tweak from there, but many people also advised to follow Cody's Neobuggy 4/25/2011 setup which is very very close to box stock setup and require no optional parts purchase (aside from piston which is mandatory anyway). The track is packed with super tight 180 turns, hard packed clay with rather thick damp red soil on top in the morning and grooved up very dusty with loose soil after midday, typical Asian track. I don't wanna buy any optional part for now as this is not my car.

Thanks a lot in advance...
Anyone?
Uwiikz is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 10:31 AM
  #11308  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
CoryD's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,187
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Anyone?
Here is my starting setup; would work pretty well on the track you described; however, there are a few option parts required.

- Normal rear hex hubs (instead of narrow)
- 2.5mm front sway bar

CoryD's Starting Setup

Enjoy,
CoryD is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 01:37 PM
  #11309  
SEF
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
SEF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: LA
Posts: 2,151
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Are most people using the stock clutch?

I'm running stock clutch with aluminum shoes (silver) and 1.0 springs.

Reason I ask, is that I came from running Losi and then Mugen. In the Losi and Mugen, I ran a Nova 21-4C engine both with the same 4 shoe clutch setup using a steel flywheel, and I was easliy able to pit at 10 minutes.

Put the same engine and pipe in my tki3 with the kyosho clutch and I am getting about 45 seconds to a minute less runtime. It must be the clutch, or are others that have run different clutch setups not seeing this type of drop in runtimes?
SEF is offline  
Old 09-04-2012, 01:57 PM
  #11310  
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
 
305M3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,222
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

I love the Kyosho clutch and also came from the Losi 4-shoe clutch (8B and 8T). I never paid attention to run times, but I have since changed from the Kyosho clutch. Reason? I H-A-T-E rebuilding 3-shoe clutches. I'll be the first to admit that I am not proficient, or even good, at rebuilding clutches so I found an easier system w/ the Werks. Love it...

The Kyosho clutch is spectacular and if I wasn't so lazy, I'd still be running one...

Originally Posted by SEF
Are most people using the stock clutch?

I'm running stock clutch with aluminum shoes (silver) and 1.0 springs.

Reason I ask, is that I came from running Losi and then Mugen. In the Losi and Mugen, I ran a Nova 21-4C engine both with the same 4 shoe clutch setup using a steel flywheel, and I was easliy able to pit at 10 minutes.

Put the same engine and pipe in my tki3 with the kyosho clutch and I am getting about 45 seconds to a minute less runtime. It must be the clutch, or are others that have run different clutch setups not seeing this type of drop in runtimes?
305M3 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.