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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 09-02-2012, 04:21 PM
  #11281  
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Originally Posted by SteveP
They're not built to be indestructible or they'd be much heavier, but please get in touch with Kyosho America customer service, and I'll be sure you get another set for free99. Even if it was unavoidable, they're expensive parts and I want you to have more than one run out of your new hubs. Talk to Derek - I'll give him the heads up that you'll be calling.
Wow Steve P...Thanks for the help. I will touch base with Derek on Tuesday afternoon to give you chance to get in touch with them. Alan

I only bent one of them which was enough
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Old 09-02-2012, 04:33 PM
  #11282  
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Alan - no problem. It won't be to tough to get in touch with them - I work there. ;o) I already emailed Derek regarding this, so he'll know of you when you call.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:01 PM
  #11283  
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Went to a local race broke a front outdrive one side of it broke off which caused the universal to bend so I put a new out drive from some original tki1 parts I had and a new tki1 universal in the front ran another heat everything was fine then during the main the broke a rear outdrive and the whole in broke off and only the shaft was left in the diff, today was the most problems I have had out my mp9's that I have had
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:46 PM
  #11284  
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Originally Posted by Stardust
Make sure your throttle linkage snaps back when you pull open the carburetor link no binding what so ever.. I worked with mine until it was silky smooth.. No throttle servo problems to speak of.

Youíre absolutely right I didnít have a good set of med tires to tryÖ Iím too cheap and run my tires into the ground.. haha

I run the BLS Futaba 352 for steering and a 451 on throttle.. 352 is a little overkill on throttle..

I race at JTec in Danville IL Awesome track !! I drive two hours one way just to race there..

Where at in central IL do you race ?

I was just doing a search for throttle linkage. I have been having some issues with my servos dying, I have only driven the car three times. I love it, but i keep losing servos fro throttle. I am running out of ideas for setup.
I have set the endpoints, and had my setup checked by a team driver. Wondering if anyone has any ideas. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-02-2012, 06:59 PM
  #11285  
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Space thee servo up off the chassis and put some foam under the servo do it has some padding, not sure why you are having problems, I haven't heard the of any servo issues but try what I said and see if it helps
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Old 09-02-2012, 07:16 PM
  #11286  
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Sure, I will give it a try. Thanks.
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:17 PM
  #11287  
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Kyosho win 1 2 3 at Italian Job Race

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...?storyid=12507
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:26 PM
  #11288  
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Anyone tried using the EU shock tower? With that bridge that runs across the top of the tower it will probably eliminate the issue of bending the stock one in some crashes. I still have the tendency to hit crap out on the track,LOL. I have the idea you need to run bigger shocks and a different body using the EU tower.

How about using the Firioni Ergal Grade aluminum shock tower? Anybody have experience with this one?

This is a great thread, thanks guys.
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:46 PM
  #11289  
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Originally Posted by Afun
Anyone tried using the EU shock tower? With that bridge that runs across the top of the tower it will probably eliminate the issue of bending the stock one in some crashes. I still have the tendency to hit crap out on the track,LOL. I have the idea you need to run bigger shocks and a different body using the EU tower.

How about using the Firioni Ergal Grade aluminum shock tower? Anybody have experience with this one?

This is a great thread, thanks guys.
I ran the EU tower at Psycho Nitro this year for the added suspension travel ( you can achieve a greater amount of droop ) for the extremely rough track. You will need to run shocks the same length that's on the rear ( TKI2-TKI3 ).
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:45 AM
  #11290  
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Default set ups

I got to drive a box stock tki3 buggy, how does the tebo set upto differ???
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:46 AM
  #11291  
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Originally Posted by 4ptss
I ran the EU tower at Psycho Nitro this year for the added suspension travel ( you can achieve a greater amount of droop ) for the extremely rough track. You will need to run shocks the same length that's on the rear ( TKI2-TKI3 ).
Thanks.. I wonder how that Firioni shock tower would do?
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:21 AM
  #11292  
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Originally Posted by SEF
Do most people run normal wheel hubs front and rear for the tki3?

Or do you use the narrow wheel hubs in the rear as shown in the exploded view in the manual.

I'll probably end up testing several combinations, but wanted to see what the majority of people run. Thanks.
The reason for the narrow wheel hub is for tech inspection. You need to use them in the rear for iFMAR spec.. it will give you slightly more side grip in the rear. Whatever someone said about problems or cutting them off? that's total garbage. If they get galled and strip out, that's operator error. If you put a tiny bit of grease on the threads (especially with the locking nuts) you won't have any issues.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:23 AM
  #11293  
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Hi All,
I would like to state this upfront, please don't flame me for expressing my opinion and please shine me with your pointers to make this a constructive post. I am not bashing any brand and in fact I am still going to order one despite the problem that I faced today...

I am racing Serpent 811 TE, really really satisfied with my Serpent but was really interested in trying out TKI3 as I like to try out different things, and I have tried a few laps with my mate's TKI2 WC and was really impressed with how the Kyosho handles the track. Today I had an opportunity to build a TKI3 latest batch that my friend bought and asked me to help with building the kit.

Upon opening the box, reading the manual, reviewing the parts, etc, I got my expectation sky high as everything within this kit screams quality. I might argue that the plastic material and metal machining quality of the Serpent is a tad higher but the overall package was really impressive with the TKI3, more than the Serpent.

However, after finished building all the diffs, I began questioning my own ability to build it properly and the fit of the kit as I had problem with fit and smoothness with 2 out of 3 diffs....The rear and front diff are very very tight and very notchy to turn after assembly, I dismantled and reassembled for 3 times both front and rear and still had the same problem, oil is 70-80% filled definitely not too much. I had to back off the 4 screws about half a turn to decrease the tightness and notch and even after that I still felt it's not as smooth as it supposed to be.

I went ahead to assemble the bulkhead and encountered with another problem. The manual indicated to shim gear side of diff to adjust play but it is not possible at all to fit the diff with extra shim attached, I ended up bending the shim and decided not to shim at all.

After finished with rear bulkhead assembly, I tried to turn the driveshaft by hand to test fit and smoothness of the rear bulkhead assembly and was freaked out when one of the diff joint side actually got stuck the the diff case and wouldn't turn, I had to back off the bulkhead screw about half a turn to free it up, and no I don't have Hulk hand and over tighten everything.

Wew so many problem on first bag, did I do anything wrong?? Very confused .... With way too many rave review of TKI3, I know I shouldn't encounter these problem. So the question is, will everything free up after running? Did I do anything wrong or there are some pointers that I missed? I had experience building many kits with various different brands for myself or mate's, I know this is not the worst but definitely not what I should expect from such a high end kit such as Kyosho...

Any advices?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:30 AM
  #11294  
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The diffs should be smooth. On the shimming, sometimes they don't need a shim, and sometimes they don't feel smooth at first. After 10cc fuel, it will be smooth. Double check and maybe it needs a shim later.

Originally Posted by Uwiikz
Hi All,
I would like to state this upfront, please don't flame me for expressing my opinion and please shine me with your pointers to make this a constructive post. I am not bashing any brand and in fact I am still going to order one despite the problem that I faced today...

I am racing Serpent 811 TE, really really satisfied with my Serpent but was really interested in trying out TKI3 as I like to try out different things, and I have tried a few laps with my mate's TKI2 WC and was really impressed with how the Kyosho handles the track. Today I had an opportunity to build a TKI3 latest batch that my friend bought and asked me to help with building the kit.

Upon opening the box, reading the manual, reviewing the parts, etc, I got my expectation sky high as everything within this kit screams quality. I might argue that the plastic material and metal machining quality of the Serpent is a tad higher but the overall package was really impressive with the TKI3, more than the Serpent.

However, after finished building all the diffs, I began questioning my own ability to build it properly and the fit of the kit as I had problem with fit and smoothness with 2 out of 3 diffs....The rear and front diff are very very tight and very notchy to turn after assembly, I dismantled and reassembled for 3 times both front and rear and still had the same problem, oil is 70-80% filled definitely not too much. I had to back off the 4 screws about half a turn to decrease the tightness and notch and even after that I still felt it's not as smooth as it supposed to be.

I went ahead to assemble the bulkhead and encountered with another problem. The manual indicated to shim gear side of diff to adjust play but it is not possible at all to fit the diff with extra shim attached, I ended up bending the shim and decided not to shim at all.

After finished with rear bulkhead assembly, I tried to turn the driveshaft by hand to test fit and smoothness of the rear bulkhead assembly and was freaked out when one of the diff joint side actually got stuck the the diff case and wouldn't turn, I had to back off the bulkhead screw about half a turn to free it up, and no I don't have Hulk hand and over tighten everything.

Wew so many problem on first bag, did I do anything wrong?? Very confused .... With way too many rave review of TKI3, I know I shouldn't encounter these problem. So the question is, will everything free up after running? Did I do anything wrong or there are some pointers that I missed? I had experience building many kits with various different brands for myself or mate's, I know this is not the worst but definitely not what I should expect from such a high end kit such as Kyosho...

Any advices?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:02 AM
  #11295  
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Originally Posted by pitpop
The diffs should be smooth. On the shimming, sometimes they don't need a shim, and sometimes they don't feel smooth at first. After 10cc fuel, it will be smooth. Double check and maybe it needs a shim later.
The center diff is as smooth as it can get, the front and rear are tight to turn and notchy. So is it safe for me to assume that everything is normal and just wait for a little run time then check again?
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