Inferno MP9 thread
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Has anyone tried using Losi springs on the MP9 or has any idea whether the springs fit other buggies other than Losi ones?
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)

This is so true. There is no such thing as a magic setup, and instead of chasing setups all day, it's best to leave the car and learn how to drive it fast. I rarely make major setup changes, even if my car "feels" not right early on. Usually, it's because I'm overdriving it and need to relax more. For diffs, 5-5-3 for me just has the most overall balance and makes the car easy to drive even 44 minutes into a 45 minute main. While there may be a tenth or two out there with another diff setup, I'm not willing to trade a predictable easy to drive car for one that might be a tenth quicker on one lap. I'll take consistency and predictability over hero laps any day.
Back to your switch issue, it sounds to me like it might be the battery. If the problem persists even after changing switches, it's most likely the battery. Also, if it's doing it at a particular time into a run and only when both servos are working, this tells me that the battery can't keep up with the amps being drawn by the servos. Try swapping the battery and see if this clears it up. It might also be the receiver, try swapping that if a new battery doesn't clear it up.
nice! you'll love em, no doubt! ofna blue truggy box, not sure of the model number, but that box will do the trick just fine.
Back to your switch issue, it sounds to me like it might be the battery. If the problem persists even after changing switches, it's most likely the battery. Also, if it's doing it at a particular time into a run and only when both servos are working, this tells me that the battery can't keep up with the amps being drawn by the servos. Try swapping the battery and see if this clears it up. It might also be the receiver, try swapping that if a new battery doesn't clear it up.
nice! you'll love em, no doubt! ofna blue truggy box, not sure of the model number, but that box will do the trick just fine.
However, I too think it's the battery. I have changed receivers so I'm hoping that's not it. The only thing making me think it is not the battery is that I can plug this same battery directly into the receiver (bypassing the switch) and the issue goes away. We'll figure it out eventually...
As for the starter box, OFNA Blue Truggy Box, no doubt. I also have the Kyosho 2.0 box and it works very nice too.

From the Hudy Book:
Front (Thicker) - Increases stability into corners during braking
- Increases steering on-power at corner exit
Looking at my notes, it did give me more on power steering. However, I was getting a bit too aggressive (entering hotter and applying more throttle than normal and earlier than normal) and the rear-end was flying out on me. I had to slow myself down a bit and didn't feel like I was leaving myself an adequate margin for error.
For example, w/ 5-5-3 I can go hotter into a corner/turn because I have the confidence and knowledge of how hard I can go before the rear breaks loose.
For me, the 5-5-3 is great for our track. There is a 180 turn where I benefited from the 7-5-3, but I was all over the place on the rest of the track.
Hope this didn't confuse you too much.
Front (Thicker) - Increases stability into corners during braking
- Increases steering on-power at corner exit
Looking at my notes, it did give me more on power steering. However, I was getting a bit too aggressive (entering hotter and applying more throttle than normal and earlier than normal) and the rear-end was flying out on me. I had to slow myself down a bit and didn't feel like I was leaving myself an adequate margin for error.
For example, w/ 5-5-3 I can go hotter into a corner/turn because I have the confidence and knowledge of how hard I can go before the rear breaks loose.
For me, the 5-5-3 is great for our track. There is a 180 turn where I benefited from the 7-5-3, but I was all over the place on the rest of the track.
Hope this didn't confuse you too much.


Also, it comes as a kit! which really is in keeping to our hobby. Mugen also offers parts (there are part numbers) for the parts in the starter box, in case things wear out (although mine is working fine after years of use; mine is the purple version, so it's really old, newer versions are simply updated with parts to allow lipos to be used without modding the battery restraints).
-Alexander
-Alexander
i also have a Mugen starter box i can confirm they are awesome and super powerful, they can easily start a new engine without trouble.
Were is possible to buy spares online? Have you or can you give me a link to spare parts numbers.
Thanks.
WWD

Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)

I use the hudy aluminum horns for the throttle servo. I have always used them and did not change when I started to drive the K car. I have not heard any issues with the plastic standard ones though. More personal choice. If I was buying the horn now I would pick up the Hudy stepped horn as you need to add a 2.5mm washer to the standard Hudy horn in the K car.
In terms of squat and inserts I never change it on the Tki3. Its kind of set and forget to be honest.
In terms of squat and inserts I never change it on the Tki3. Its kind of set and forget to be honest.
I still want to change my eccentrics to 0* anti-squat. I didn't get the addendum papers that came with my manual, someone said to me they thought it was on there the eccentric settings.
Breaking in an OS Speed right now, should be on the track Saturday with my new K car

Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)

Thanks Nacho.
So it looks like Kyosho calls anti-squat "Skid Angle"?
So it looks like Kyosho calls anti-squat "Skid Angle"?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)

so i was thinking of putting the alum c hubs on, is it worth it?

I have about 7 full race days on the K car inlcuding practice, qualifiers, and mains. I have changed the fluid in the diffs about three times. I am still unable to put that single shim on the non-crown side in the front and the rear. The car has no room for it. I end up bending the shim. Any thoughts?
On another note, I have played around with the skid angle from stock settings to Cody Kings CRCR set up. No need to follow manual instructions if you are using his set-up which is pretty awesom and close to stock.
I am also little surprised on the wear of the diff gears. One of my sun gears has a small chip on it. No biggie, I reinstalled it. I will be getting new gears.
On another note, I have played around with the skid angle from stock settings to Cody Kings CRCR set up. No need to follow manual instructions if you are using his set-up which is pretty awesom and close to stock.
I am also little surprised on the wear of the diff gears. One of my sun gears has a small chip on it. No biggie, I reinstalled it. I will be getting new gears.
Last edited by Afun; 08-10-2012 at 07:04 PM.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)

Does anyone kno if mp777 parts are compatible with the mp9 tki2 or 3?
Want to upgrade but just looking at options...
Want to upgrade but just looking at options...
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)

I have about 7 full race days on the K car inlcuding practice, qualifiers, and mains. I have changed the fluid in the diffs about three times. I am still unable to put that single shim on the non-crown side in the front and the rear. The car has no room for it. I end up bending the shim. Any thoughts?
On another note, I have played around with the skid angle from stock settings to Cody Kings CRCR set up. No need to follow manual instructions if you are using his set-up which is pretty awesom and close to stock.
I am also little surprised on the wear of the diff gears. One of my sun gears has a small chip on it. No biggie, I reinstalled it. I will be getting new gears.
On another note, I have played around with the skid angle from stock settings to Cody Kings CRCR set up. No need to follow manual instructions if you are using his set-up which is pretty awesom and close to stock.
I am also little surprised on the wear of the diff gears. One of my sun gears has a small chip on it. No biggie, I reinstalled it. I will be getting new gears.