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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 08-09-2012, 05:14 AM
  #11101  
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Has anyone tried using Losi springs on the MP9 or has any idea whether the springs fit other buggies other than Losi ones?
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:51 AM
  #11102  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
This is so true. There is no such thing as a magic setup, and instead of chasing setups all day, it's best to leave the car and learn how to drive it fast. I rarely make major setup changes, even if my car "feels" not right early on. Usually, it's because I'm overdriving it and need to relax more. For diffs, 5-5-3 for me just has the most overall balance and makes the car easy to drive even 44 minutes into a 45 minute main. While there may be a tenth or two out there with another diff setup, I'm not willing to trade a predictable easy to drive car for one that might be a tenth quicker on one lap. I'll take consistency and predictability over hero laps any day.

Back to your switch issue, it sounds to me like it might be the battery. If the problem persists even after changing switches, it's most likely the battery. Also, if it's doing it at a particular time into a run and only when both servos are working, this tells me that the battery can't keep up with the amps being drawn by the servos. Try swapping the battery and see if this clears it up. It might also be the receiver, try swapping that if a new battery doesn't clear it up.



nice! you'll love em, no doubt! ofna blue truggy box, not sure of the model number, but that box will do the trick just fine.
Thanks for the advice. The second I got to the track, about an hour away, I opened the car door and it started POURING. I hung out for about 45 minutes to see if it was passing rain, but the track was puddling pretty good so I left w/o troubleshooting.

However, I too think it's the battery. I have changed receivers so I'm hoping that's not it. The only thing making me think it is not the battery is that I can plug this same battery directly into the receiver (bypassing the switch) and the issue goes away. We'll figure it out eventually...

As for the starter box, OFNA Blue Truggy Box, no doubt. I also have the Kyosho 2.0 box and it works very nice too.
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:31 AM
  #11103  
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Originally Posted by 305M3
From the Hudy Book:

Front (Thicker) - Increases stability into corners during braking
- Increases steering on-power at corner exit

Looking at my notes, it did give me more on power steering. However, I was getting a bit too aggressive (entering hotter and applying more throttle than normal and earlier than normal) and the rear-end was flying out on me. I had to slow myself down a bit and didn't feel like I was leaving myself an adequate margin for error.

For example, w/ 5-5-3 I can go hotter into a corner/turn because I have the confidence and knowledge of how hard I can go before the rear breaks loose.

For me, the 5-5-3 is great for our track. There is a 180 turn where I benefited from the 7-5-3, but I was all over the place on the rest of the track.

Hope this didn't confuse you too much.
Thanks for the help. I now feel like trying it.
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:28 PM
  #11104  
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Originally Posted by foampervert
Also, it comes as a kit! which really is in keeping to our hobby. Mugen also offers parts (there are part numbers) for the parts in the starter box, in case things wear out (although mine is working fine after years of use; mine is the purple version, so it's really old, newer versions are simply updated with parts to allow lipos to be used without modding the battery restraints).
-Alexander
Hi Alexander,
i also have a Mugen starter box i can confirm they are awesome and super powerful, they can easily start a new engine without trouble.
Were is possible to buy spares online? Have you or can you give me a link to spare parts numbers.
Thanks.
WWD
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:01 PM
  #11105  
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Originally Posted by wildwillydriver
Hi Alexander,
i also have a Mugen starter box i can confirm they are awesome and super powerful, they can easily start a new engine without trouble.
Were is possible to buy spares online? Have you or can you give me a link to spare parts numbers.
Thanks.
WWD
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Wheel-BII-RII

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ey-Set-BII-RII
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:06 PM
  #11106  
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Originally Posted by ben73
I use the hudy aluminum horns for the throttle servo. I have always used them and did not change when I started to drive the K car. I have not heard any issues with the plastic standard ones though. More personal choice. If I was buying the horn now I would pick up the Hudy stepped horn as you need to add a 2.5mm washer to the standard Hudy horn in the K car.

In terms of squat and inserts I never change it on the Tki3. Its kind of set and forget to be honest.
So looking at the kyosho stock throttle horn, it uses a smaller 2.5 mm screw. Yet the Hudy and Robitronic are drilled with 3mm holes. Are you guys just drilling the hole out larger in the kyosho plastic horn?

I still want to change my eccentrics to 0* anti-squat. I didn't get the addendum papers that came with my manual, someone said to me they thought it was on there the eccentric settings.

Breaking in an OS Speed right now, should be on the track Saturday with my new K car
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:59 PM
  #11107  
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Originally Posted by Vortexted

I still want to change my eccentrics to 0* anti-squat. I didn't get the addendum papers that came with my manual, someone said to me they thought it was on there the eccentric settings.
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Old 08-09-2012, 09:22 PM
  #11108  
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Thanks Nacho.

So it looks like Kyosho calls anti-squat "Skid Angle"?
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Vortexted
Thanks Nacho.

So it looks like Kyosho calls anti-squat "Skid Angle"?
yeah, I can only think its referenced to the skid plate or chassis.
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:51 AM
  #11110  
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so i was thinking of putting the alum c hubs on, is it worth it?
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:40 PM
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I have about 7 full race days on the K car inlcuding practice, qualifiers, and mains. I have changed the fluid in the diffs about three times. I am still unable to put that single shim on the non-crown side in the front and the rear. The car has no room for it. I end up bending the shim. Any thoughts?

On another note, I have played around with the skid angle from stock settings to Cody Kings CRCR set up. No need to follow manual instructions if you are using his set-up which is pretty awesom and close to stock.

I am also little surprised on the wear of the diff gears. One of my sun gears has a small chip on it. No biggie, I reinstalled it. I will be getting new gears.

Last edited by Afun; 08-10-2012 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:27 PM
  #11112  
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Does anyone kno if mp777 parts are compatible with the mp9 tki2 or 3?
Want to upgrade but just looking at options...
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:34 PM
  #11113  
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Originally Posted by Tyson72
Does anyone kno if mp777 parts are compatible with the mp9 tki2 or 3?
Want to upgrade but just looking at options...
No! Nothing is the same at all! Get a MP9, you wont regret it
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:20 PM
  #11114  
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Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO
No! Nothing is the same at all! Get a MP9, you wont regret it
He will if the Mrs finds out
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:03 AM
  #11115  
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Originally Posted by Afun
I have about 7 full race days on the K car inlcuding practice, qualifiers, and mains. I have changed the fluid in the diffs about three times. I am still unable to put that single shim on the non-crown side in the front and the rear. The car has no room for it. I end up bending the shim. Any thoughts?

On another note, I have played around with the skid angle from stock settings to Cody Kings CRCR set up. No need to follow manual instructions if you are using his set-up which is pretty awesom and close to stock.

I am also little surprised on the wear of the diff gears. One of my sun gears has a small chip on it. No biggie, I reinstalled it. I will be getting new gears.
Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
There's really no wrong way to shim a diff, it's all based on manufacturing tolerances. Just don't make them too tight or
On your diff gear wear, I know I'm not the only one suffering from dirt entering the bulkheads from the mating surface to chassis. I am on to sealant now after trying grease to create a seal in this area
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