chirivita

It's not weird at all. Why spend money in making new parts(which is NOT cheap) when you can use something similar from another brand? You try it and then depending on the results you decide if it's worth making it or not. It's part of the development process.

Correct

TIX

iTrader: (17)

Here is a pic of my TIX Race Developments Pistons



They are available for sale at www.tixracedevelopments.com in kits with drill bits to customize them to your liking. Or as pistons only for those that already have a kit.

With so many people looking for the right mix of piston / oil for their shocks, I have decided to start selling my blank pistons to help find that balance your looking for.

They have a 1mm leading edge for minimal resistance against the shock body, and are tapered for optimal flow.

They are currently available for the Kyosho MP9. AE RC8 line. Xray XB9, 808 and XT8. Serpent Cobra 811 line. Losi 8ight line and Mugen MBX6 line of buggies and truggies.

All lines are currently available and ready for shipping

TIX

iTrader: (17)

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oghobavo

iTrader: (10)

I don't like anything other than 5 in the rear, tried 4 and 3, not bad but not quite suited for my driving style. It feels too tail whippish for my liking with anything lower than 5

I always use 7 in the front no matter what. I feel it helps the car pull/tract straight out of corners. Tried 5 and 6 but alway come back to 7.

The center is where I make the most changes when it comes to diff setup. I use 9-12 adjusting in 1k increments(PTRC Oils). Higher oil in the center will cause oversteer/more aggressive setup which I like because I am able to dial it out by reducing the dual rate on my control. The 5 in the rear combats the tail from spinning out with the added oversteer with this setup. So I basically have all the controllable steering in the world with minimum controller input which helps me drive my rig easier.

So 7/9-12/5 is my go to. This is what works for me, most probably will not like it or say its to high of oils for the mp9 and that I'm crazy lol...if you try it let me know what you think

nacho_gas

Thank you very much.
This is the kind of answer I wanted to hear.
maybe I can make a test 7-9-5 . It is the only way to know if it's good for my driving.
thanks friend

Any more reviews?

305M3

iTrader: (43)

I have settled on 5-5-3. I have tried up to +2 in the front and back, for example:
6-5-3
7-5-3
5-5-4
5-5-5
5-5-6
5-5-7
6-5-7
7-5-7

I did it more to figure out what the changes will actually do. I'm a "gotta see it" type of person and the experience I got from the day I spent trying all these setups was invaluable.

All that being said, the 5-5-3 leaves the car in a "neutral" setup and allows me to tweak my driving style as the track/weather/tires etc changed.

GL on the chase and I'd argue that a magic step is harder to find than flat out practice.

Afun

iTrader: (19)

I agree that 5-5-3 feels pretty awesome. I just have not tried anything else because I like it so much.

If you remember, what were the characteristics of the buggy at 7-5-3?

305M3

iTrader: (43)

From the Hudy Book:

Front (Thicker) - Increases stability into corners during braking
- Increases steering on-power at corner exit

Looking at my notes, it did give me more on power steering. However, I was getting a bit too aggressive (entering hotter and applying more throttle than normal and earlier than normal) and the rear-end was flying out on me. I had to slow myself down a bit and didn't feel like I was leaving myself an adequate margin for error.

For example, w/ 5-5-3 I can go hotter into a corner/turn because I have the confidence and knowledge of how hard I can go before the rear breaks loose.

For me, the 5-5-3 is great for our track. There is a 180 turn where I benefited from the 7-5-3, but I was all over the place on the rest of the track.

Hope this didn't confuse you too much.

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

i have made my decision, i will be getting 2 tli3. in september!!!! alpha powered!!!

I LOOKED AT NITRO HOUSE for parts cost, parts r not 2 bad???? prices look good.
what brand of starter box do i need to get for this buggy, i want a hi power starter box.

AZRC4Me

iTrader: (8)

This is so true. There is no such thing as a magic setup, and instead of chasing setups all day, it's best to leave the car and learn how to drive it fast. I rarely make major setup changes, even if my car "feels" not right early on. Usually, it's because I'm overdriving it and need to relax more. For diffs, 5-5-3 for me just has the most overall balance and makes the car easy to drive even 44 minutes into a 45 minute main. While there may be a tenth or two out there with another diff setup, I'm not willing to trade a predictable easy to drive car for one that might be a tenth quicker on one lap. I'll take consistency and predictability over hero laps any day.

Back to your switch issue, it sounds to me like it might be the battery. If the problem persists even after changing switches, it's most likely the battery. Also, if it's doing it at a particular time into a run and only when both servos are working, this tells me that the battery can't keep up with the amps being drawn by the servos. Try swapping the battery and see if this clears it up. It might also be the receiver, try swapping that if a new battery doesn't clear it up.

nice! you'll love em, no doubt! ofna blue truggy box, not sure of the model number, but that box will do the trick just fine.

evolution03

iTrader: (8)

ebay parts are cheaper. The ofna blue truggy box is what i use also.

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

this one ??? http://www.nitrohouse.com/Ofna-18-Sc...rs_p_4592.html

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

u need to be in bed chase

foampervert

iTrader: (5)

Hiya folks,

I've always found good success with Mugen Seiki's starter box pro. It's small and compact (relatively), super powerful and the electrical contacts make the most sense (of all the starter boxes I've used before).

Also, it comes as a kit! which really is in keeping to our hobby. Mugen also offers parts (there are part numbers) for the parts in the starter box, in case things wear out (although mine is working fine after years of use; mine is the purple version, so it's really old, newer versions are simply updated with parts to allow lipos to be used without modding the battery restraints).

I've also used "hard racing" styled starter boxes, GS styled boxes and Ofna (world RC) styled boxes, but the electrical contacts tend to arc and oxidize very quickly. No parts are available for these, so you'll have to buy a new one or jerry rig a new contact (I used nimh battery bars)

Mugen boxes are more expensive, but if you're ready to buy a Mp9, I doubt that the price of a mugen box is going to put you off...

-Alexander

LOSIRACER77

iTrader: (2)

KINDA, but i want the best damn buggy i have ever drove, the second one will be a parts car. cause the lhs is lazy, and there will only 4 tki3 buggys racing at the track, so we all will share parts.

i drove this tki3 for 5 back-to-back tanks!!! and was making the same lap times as the ower was. his name is bill mason, some of u guys might know him. i could put this car anywhere on the track and it was stable. ( better than my losi ever was).

AND I GET MORE FUN OUT OF RACING THAN BUYING THE OLD LADY AND SET OF B00____!!!!!