1LikesInferno MP9 thread
10-10-2016, 02:30 PM - Wikipost
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06-05-2012, 04:59 AM
Hey Everyone,
Thanks for all the advise. I've already dremel the engine and it already clear the CVD well. I actually dremel more on the this engine than my bashing engine which are both OS Speed.
I think Sean is right that it might be due to crash I had few weeks back during the race (I suspected that too). It was a bad, someone t-bone me on the rear causing my right upper up to came off from the shock stay.
But I did tear down all the parts and check them and both the rod and the cvd looks good. But than I didn't run this buggy after that till last week practice so I guess something 'broke/weaken' during the bad crash and my inspection didn't detect them
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one. 
Anyway, good to know that it's not some stupid setup mistake by me. The crash is not my fault (I believe so), the track was muddy after heavy rain and when I brake to turn after long straight, the car behind me drove straight to my rear. I guess he did try to brake but due to the track condition he should have brake earlier. Anyway, I will never run my buggy after rain again. One time is enough!
Thanks for all the advise. I've already dremel the engine and it already clear the CVD well. I actually dremel more on the this engine than my bashing engine which are both OS Speed.
I think Sean is right that it might be due to crash I had few weeks back during the race (I suspected that too). It was a bad, someone t-bone me on the rear causing my right upper up to came off from the shock stay.
But I did tear down all the parts and check them and both the rod and the cvd looks good. But than I didn't run this buggy after that till last week practice so I guess something 'broke/weaken' during the bad crash and my inspection didn't detect them
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did
so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one. Anyway, good to know that it's not some stupid setup mistake by me. The crash is not my fault (I believe so), the track was muddy after heavy rain and when I brake to turn after long straight, the car behind me drove straight to my rear. I guess he did try to brake but due to the track condition he should have brake earlier. Anyway, I will never run my buggy after rain again. One time is enough!
06-05-2012, 05:07 AM
Tech Apprentice
Which aluminum rod?
Hey Everyone,
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one.
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did
so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one.
06-05-2012, 05:08 AM
06-05-2012, 05:23 AM
Hiya Doc,
the pics you've included looks like you've rounded off the engine mounting lug. That's not enough to clear the rear shaft.
Take a look at mine. The engine mounting lug is literally dremelled off to ensure space between the lug and the shaft. even then, I still see a little silvery band around the shaft where it contacts the engine at extreme flex.
Whip out the dremel and go to town!
-Alexander
the pics you've included looks like you've rounded off the engine mounting lug. That's not enough to clear the rear shaft.
Take a look at mine. The engine mounting lug is literally dremelled off to ensure space between the lug and the shaft. even then, I still see a little silvery band around the shaft where it contacts the engine at extreme flex.
Whip out the dremel and go to town!
-Alexander
06-05-2012, 05:24 AM
Hey Everyone,
Thanks for all the advise. I've already dremel the engine and it already clear the CVD well. I actually dremel more on the this engine than my bashing engine which are both OS Speed.
I think Sean is right that it might be due to crash I had few weeks back during the race (I suspected that too). It was a bad, someone t-bone me on the rear causing my right upper up to came off from the shock stay.
But I did tear down all the parts and check them and both the rod and the cvd looks good. But than I didn't run this buggy after that till last week practice so I guess something 'broke/weaken' during the bad crash and my inspection didn't detect them
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one.
Anyway, good to know that it's not some stupid setup mistake by me. The crash is not my fault (I believe so), the track was muddy after heavy rain and when I brake to turn after long straight, the car behind me drove straight to my rear. I guess he did try to brake but due to the track condition he should have brake earlier. Anyway, I will never run my buggy after rain again. One time is enough!
Thanks for all the advise. I've already dremel the engine and it already clear the CVD well. I actually dremel more on the this engine than my bashing engine which are both OS Speed.
I think Sean is right that it might be due to crash I had few weeks back during the race (I suspected that too). It was a bad, someone t-bone me on the rear causing my right upper up to came off from the shock stay.
But I did tear down all the parts and check them and both the rod and the cvd looks good. But than I didn't run this buggy after that till last week practice so I guess something 'broke/weaken' during the bad crash and my inspection didn't detect them
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did
so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one. Anyway, good to know that it's not some stupid setup mistake by me. The crash is not my fault (I believe so), the track was muddy after heavy rain and when I brake to turn after long straight, the car behind me drove straight to my rear. I guess he did try to brake but due to the track condition he should have brake earlier. Anyway, I will never run my buggy after rain again. One time is enough!
How did you get it clean?
Last edited by 305M3; 06-05-2012 at 06:38 AM.
06-05-2012, 05:39 AM
Tropic thunder!
Hey Everyone,
Thanks for all the advise. I've already dremel the engine and it already clear the CVD well. I actually dremel more on the this engine than my bashing engine which are both OS Speed.
I think Sean is right that it might be due to crash I had few weeks back during the race (I suspected that too). It was a bad, someone t-bone me on the rear causing my right upper up to came off from the shock stay.
But I did tear down all the parts and check them and both the rod and the cvd looks good. But than I didn't run this buggy after that till last week practice so I guess something 'broke/weaken' during the bad crash and my inspection didn't detect them
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one.
Anyway, good to know that it's not some stupid setup mistake by me. The crash is not my fault (I believe so), the track was muddy after heavy rain and when I brake to turn after long straight, the car behind me drove straight to my rear. I guess he did try to brake but due to the track condition he should have brake earlier. Anyway, I will never run my buggy after rain again. One time is enough!
Thanks for all the advise. I've already dremel the engine and it already clear the CVD well. I actually dremel more on the this engine than my bashing engine which are both OS Speed.
I think Sean is right that it might be due to crash I had few weeks back during the race (I suspected that too). It was a bad, someone t-bone me on the rear causing my right upper up to came off from the shock stay.
But I did tear down all the parts and check them and both the rod and the cvd looks good. But than I didn't run this buggy after that till last week practice so I guess something 'broke/weaken' during the bad crash and my inspection didn't detect them
Paul, thanks for the information on the aluminum rod as some people on the track was telling me that I should not be using a plastic one. I told them Cody and Tebo did
so I'm going to follow them. Now that you explain, I will use that to explain to them why I'm using the plastic rod and not the aluminum one. Anyway, good to know that it's not some stupid setup mistake by me. The crash is not my fault (I believe so), the track was muddy after heavy rain and when I brake to turn after long straight, the car behind me drove straight to my rear. I guess he did try to brake but due to the track condition he should have brake earlier. Anyway, I will never run my buggy after rain again. One time is enough!
You just need to come prepared for wet weather racing. We live in the tropics and our local races are a 1 day affair. The chances that rain might happen at some point of the race schedule is super high! And it's worse during the monsoons.
For tires, you need to make or buy skinny, soft tires from GRP (jolly narrow).
For bodyshell and the car at large, buy a huge spray can of dry -Teflon (for bike chains), spray liberally over bodyshell and the car in general, let it dry before your run. The more layers you spray, the less mud will stick.
For engine, get a good wet weather filter, don't jury rig one from coke cans.
For electronics, I silicon my servos and radio box during the build, rx and batt are always ballooned and siliconed.
And you're ready for your typical tropical buggy race.
On another note, use only diamond grinding bits in your dremel for dremeling engine mounting lugs! They are cheap and I find them infinitely useful for all things. (trimming clutch shoes, for instance)
-Alexander
06-05-2012, 05:44 AM
06-05-2012, 05:49 AM
Oh WOW, thanks for the tips Alexander, really appreciate it! I will try to do all the stuff you recommended. One thing though, do you happen to know if GRP narrow tire approved at Southern and the KL track?
Btw, how do you silicon your servos? Do you have to tear them apart?
Btw, how do you silicon your servos? Do you have to tear them apart?
Hiya Doc,
You just need to come prepared for wet weather racing. We live in the tropics and our local races are a 1 day affair. The chances that rain might happen at some point of the race schedule is super high! And it's worse during the monsoons.
For tires, you need to make or buy skinny, soft tires from GRP (jolly narrow).
For bodyshell and the car at large, buy a huge spray can of dry -Teflon (for bike chains), spray liberally over bodyshell and the car in general, let it dry before your run. The more layers you spray, the less mud will stick.
For engine, get a good wet weather filter, don't jury rig one from coke cans.
For electronics, I silicon my servos and radio box during the build, rx and batt are always ballooned and siliconed.
And you're ready for your typical tropical buggy race.
On another note, use only diamond grinding bits in your dremel for dremeling engine mounting lugs! They are cheap and I find them infinitely useful for all things. (trimming clutch shoes, for instance)
-Alexander
You just need to come prepared for wet weather racing. We live in the tropics and our local races are a 1 day affair. The chances that rain might happen at some point of the race schedule is super high! And it's worse during the monsoons.
For tires, you need to make or buy skinny, soft tires from GRP (jolly narrow).
For bodyshell and the car at large, buy a huge spray can of dry -Teflon (for bike chains), spray liberally over bodyshell and the car in general, let it dry before your run. The more layers you spray, the less mud will stick.
For engine, get a good wet weather filter, don't jury rig one from coke cans.
For electronics, I silicon my servos and radio box during the build, rx and batt are always ballooned and siliconed.
And you're ready for your typical tropical buggy race.
On another note, use only diamond grinding bits in your dremel for dremeling engine mounting lugs! They are cheap and I find them infinitely useful for all things. (trimming clutch shoes, for instance)
-Alexander
06-05-2012, 06:59 AM
06-05-2012, 07:13 AM
06-05-2012, 07:45 AM
Tech Initiate
Good advice
"These cars (not just Kyosho but rc's in general) go through so much stress during a race it's unreal. Look at some slow motion video or some pics of cars landing, it's insane. Durability is highly subjective and boils down to your preparation, your driving, and you managing your equipment and the track. Sometimes making the quad isn't worth it and you need to reign it in to save the car and finish the race. In order to finish first, first you have to finish"
amen to that
amen to that
It is all so true.
06-05-2012, 07:45 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
That mob has been making alloy MP9 bits for a few years now, arms, tank mounts, servo saver/bellcranks, wing mounts, shock towers, etc. I wanted to buy one of their front shock towers but they only sell them as a set, with the rear, so I didn't end up buying anything from them.
Also, they could at least try to get the colours right, or even just something which will suit the car. They only make silver and blue AFAIK. The silver's not too bad but the blue is just garish.
Also, they could at least try to get the colours right, or even just something which will suit the car. They only make silver and blue AFAIK. The silver's not too bad but the blue is just garish.
06-05-2012, 07:50 AM
Tech Initiate
Good point
Nope, the cvds are thicker. They come in at about 3.5mm thick compared to the stock unis that are about 3.2mm thick.
Your second point, possible, but highly unlikely. That picture is a result of crashing - either the driver or someone crashing on him. I've bent shafts before, and all were due to me blowing out or getting hacked. I'd rather have a shaft bend than break, which is the alternative. I'm sure everyone has seen the pic of Cody's World Champion car with the banana front drive shaft - if that breaks instead of bends, well...not good.
These cars (not just Kyosho but rc's in general) go through so much stress during a race it's unreal. Look at some slow motion video or some pics of cars landing, it's insane. Durability is highly subjective and boils down to your preparation, your driving, and you managing your equipment and the track. Sometimes making the quad isn't worth it and you need to reign it in to save the car and finish the race. In order to finish first, first you have to finish.
Your second point, possible, but highly unlikely. That picture is a result of crashing - either the driver or someone crashing on him. I've bent shafts before, and all were due to me blowing out or getting hacked. I'd rather have a shaft bend than break, which is the alternative. I'm sure everyone has seen the pic of Cody's World Champion car with the banana front drive shaft - if that breaks instead of bends, well...not good.
These cars (not just Kyosho but rc's in general) go through so much stress during a race it's unreal. Look at some slow motion video or some pics of cars landing, it's insane. Durability is highly subjective and boils down to your preparation, your driving, and you managing your equipment and the track. Sometimes making the quad isn't worth it and you need to reign it in to save the car and finish the race. In order to finish first, first you have to finish.
Dirtn
06-05-2012, 07:55 AM
Tech Apprentice
06-05-2012, 08:08 AM
