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R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 06-04-2012, 12:56 PM
  #10336  
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Thats what im using. You can drill a hole in the end of the extention and bolt it there too for more stiffness around the gears. I havent found that to be needed though
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:45 PM
  #10337  
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It is the 1st time it has happened but the car only has less than a 1/2 gallon on it. The chassis seems to have a great deal of flex causing the clutchbell to groove the chassis and may have been the cause of the spur gear breaking a tooth. I had to drill a relief hole to help with this issue but the extended motor mount should help spur gears from breaking teeth.
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Old 06-04-2012, 03:43 PM
  #10338  
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Does anyone know if there are any companies that make a direct drop in ( work with Kyosho shoes and springs) steel flywheel for the MP9?
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:29 PM
  #10339  
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i asked the same thing a few weaks ago and only came up with a whole new clutch system which i never bought
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:18 PM
  #10340  
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we have put so many gallons on Cody's cars until the spur gear is worn out, and never broken one with the TKI2 chassis. Check the alignment to make sure the spur gear is in the middle of the clutch bell gear. Also make sure the mesh isn't too loose or the teeth hanging out the bottom of the chassis. I think you will find your problem goes away if those 3 things are perfected.
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:01 PM
  #10341  
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And if I may add that with the OS XZB the engine touches the inside engine mount plate, chamfer this plate and you will get the last bit of adjustment you need for proper spur gear mesh.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:27 PM
  #10342  
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Hello drstrangelove,

Did You cut or chamfer the rear right side of the engine mount? The rear right side of the engine mount is very close to the rear center shaft if You do not cut that part thus make the rear center shaft prone to bend when You have a bad crash.

Originally Posted by drstrangelove
Anyone experience bending their rear centre CVD before? Was doing my practice last weekend and running my race buggy (which have been running no more than 30 mins previously during the race) and after 2 tanks I realized that the rear centre CVD was bend and so was the plastic rear rod. I don't remember having any real bad jump or hitting anything hard. Kind of disappointed to see that happening. My bashing buggy is using the stock centre shaft and that buggy was driven more aggressive, tons of bad jumps and all but all are good.

Anyway, will be replacing them and I'm interested to try the CNC rear rod. Anyone using them? Hopefully that will prevent the CVD from bending again.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:29 PM
  #10343  
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Hi standleyw808,

I've done that actually. I'm trying to figure out what might be the problem. I think it might be due to bad crash I had during the race few weeks back, someone crash on my car from rear quite badly. I did a tear down after that and checked all the parts and all looks good. But I think the crash might have weaken the rear CVD, that's the only think I can think off.

Anyway, anyone uses the aluminum rear rob before?





Originally Posted by stanleyw808
Hello drstrangelove,

Did You cut or chamfer the rear right side of the engine mount? The rear right side of the engine mount is very close to the rear center shaft if You do not cut that part thus make the rear center shaft prone to bend when You have a bad crash.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:00 PM
  #10344  
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If your rear torque rod is bent it can cause this. Straighten it, or if it's old and soft, replace it. It needs to be absolutely straight. I don't really recommend the aluminum piece because the flex is concentrated into the center where the hole is for your flywheel.

Originally Posted by drstrangelove
Hi standleyw808,

I've done that actually. I'm trying to figure out what might be the problem. I think it might be due to bad crash I had during the race few weeks back, someone crash on my car from rear quite badly. I did a tear down after that and checked all the parts and all looks good. But I think the crash might have weaken the rear CVD, that's the only think I can think off.

Anyway, anyone uses the aluminum rear rob before?



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Old 06-04-2012, 10:02 PM
  #10345  
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Originally Posted by drstrangelove
Hi standleyw808,

I've done that actually. I'm trying to figure out what might be the problem. I think it might be due to bad crash I had during the race few weeks back, someone crash on my car from rear quite badly. I did a tear down after that and checked all the parts and all looks good. But I think the crash might have weaken the rear CVD, that's the only think I can think off.

Anyway, anyone uses the aluminum rear rob before?



I think you still need to grind off a little more material from your engine as a big, bright silver area can be seen on the driveshaft, just next to the rear engine mount hole. Obviously this has happened due to the driveshaft making contact with the engine.
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:34 PM
  #10346  
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drstrange, i noticed in your picture you are running the rear centre CVD's instead of the box stock uni's... perhaps the CVDs are weaker?

Another view: As Aaron pointed out, your driveshaft might be making contact with the edge of your engine (evidence by the shiny rub patch) this effect in a race may be producing unneccessary stress / heat on to the drive shaft, resulting in a weaken driveshaft,

some food for thought..
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:53 PM
  #10347  
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Originally Posted by Shadows
drstrange, i noticed in your picture you are running the rear centre CVD's instead of the box stock uni's... perhaps the CVDs are weaker?

Another view: As Aaron pointed out, your driveshaft might be making contact with the edge of your engine (evidence by the shiny rub patch) this effect in a race may be producing unneccessary stress / heat on to the drive shaft, resulting in a weaken driveshaft,

some food for thought..
Nope, the cvds are thicker. They come in at about 3.5mm thick compared to the stock unis that are about 3.2mm thick.

Your second point, possible, but highly unlikely. That picture is a result of crashing - either the driver or someone crashing on him. I've bent shafts before, and all were due to me blowing out or getting hacked. I'd rather have a shaft bend than break, which is the alternative. I'm sure everyone has seen the pic of Cody's World Champion car with the banana front drive shaft - if that breaks instead of bends, well...not good.

These cars (not just Kyosho but rc's in general) go through so much stress during a race it's unreal. Look at some slow motion video or some pics of cars landing, it's insane. Durability is highly subjective and boils down to your preparation, your driving, and you managing your equipment and the track. Sometimes making the quad isn't worth it and you need to reign it in to save the car and finish the race. In order to finish first, first you have to finish.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:12 PM
  #10348  
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Default not enuff chamfer

Originally Posted by drstrangelove
Hi standleyw808,

I've done that actually. I'm trying to figure out what might be the problem. I think it might be due to bad crash I had during the race few weeks back, someone crash on my car from rear quite badly. I did a tear down after that and checked all the parts and all looks good. But I think the crash might have weaken the rear CVD, that's the only think I can think off.

Anyway, anyone uses the aluminum rear rob before?



Hiya Doc,

the pics you've included looks like you've rounded off the engine mounting lug. That's not enough to clear the rear shaft.

Take a look at mine. The engine mounting lug is literally dremelled off to ensure space between the lug and the shaft. even then, I still see a little silvery band around the shaft where it contacts the engine at extreme flex.

Whip out the dremel and go to town!

-Alexander
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:44 PM
  #10349  
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It looks to me like the shaft hit the engine when it bent..
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:52 AM
  #10350  
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"These cars (not just Kyosho but rc's in general) go through so much stress during a race it's unreal. Look at some slow motion video or some pics of cars landing, it's insane. Durability is highly subjective and boils down to your preparation, your driving, and you managing your equipment and the track. Sometimes making the quad isn't worth it and you need to reign it in to save the car and finish the race. In order to finish first, first you have to finish"


amen to that
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