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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 04-19-2012, 05:22 PM
  #9451  
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Originally Posted by Happy Meal
What is the dis-advantage to using the pistons that are drilled at an angle? I thought they had better pack characteristics? Just wondering...
were i race they have to much pack for my likeing and i ended up going down to 30 25 wt losi oils it made the car very responsive at low speed and some corners it was understeering i then channged to 1.3 x8 went 100 times better but i now use 1.2x8 with 37.5 27.5 i found this to be a great combo and havent changed it since trying it out most of the other guys use 1.3 x8
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:00 PM
  #9452  
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How do you guys bend the shaft that connects the exhaust pipe to the chasis? Im finding it hard to do..
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:14 PM
  #9453  
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2 pliers will do that job. Hold the pliers close to where you want to bend them and using all the strength God given you, bend them When I do that, I will always curse and swear at Kyosho for getting me to do that and when it's done I will always praise the quality of Kyosho products

Originally Posted by p@p@nut
How do you guys bend the shaft that connects the exhaust pipe to the chasis? Im finding it hard to do..
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:39 PM
  #9454  
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Originally Posted by drstrangelove
2 pliers will do that job. Hold the pliers close to where you want to bend them and using all the strength God given you, bend them When I do that, I will always curse and swear at Kyosho for getting me to do that and when it's done I will always praise the quality of Kyosho products
Nothing like going balls deep with a pair of pliers into your left hand.. But hey, the exhaust sits nice
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:00 PM
  #9455  
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Anyone know if Cody and Tebo will be at the silver state nitro challenge? man, I have to burn midnight oil again. this sunday I will be a busy man, morning practice at Southern Alley, after that F1 and then Silver State. Sweet!
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:23 PM
  #9456  
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Originally Posted by p@p@nut
How do you guys bend the shaft that connects the exhaust pipe to the chasis? Im finding it hard to do..
I use a sway bar and cut it with a dremel, then install it in the mount on the chassis, then use one pair of pliers to bend it into position. Pretty easy and the sway bar is already bent and is more sturdy than anything else I've used. PK suggested it to me and it's great.

Originally Posted by drstrangelove
Anyone know if Cody and Tebo will be at the silver state nitro challenge? man, I have to burn midnight oil again. this sunday I will be a busy man, morning practice at Southern Alley, after that F1 and then Silver State. Sweet!
I'm 99% sure Tebo is there and 100% sure Cody is, just talked to Cody today as a matter of fact. Wish I could be there but couldn't get the time off work...
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:09 AM
  #9457  
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Default Kyosho clutch bell

I have broken the entire gear section off of 3 - 13 tooth clutch bells in the last 2 months on my TKI2. I have drilled the hole in the chassis. Has this happened to any one else?
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:17 AM
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Wow, that is really something. Never experience that. I've seen a guy running without even drilling the hole and no problem (but I can see deep cuts on his chassis). Did you say 3 of them? did you ensure you shime them properly? also, make sure the gap between the spur gear and clutch bell is about 1 piece of paper. I feel that take a lot of pressure between the clutch bell and the spur gear. The first time I set them up, I put them too close and something feel wrong so I try to get both of them to touch 'gently' and it does feel better.

Originally Posted by Retired09
I have broken the entire gear section off of 3 - 13 tooth clutch bells in the last 2 months on my TKI2. I have drilled the hole in the chassis. Has this happened to any one else?
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Old 04-20-2012, 12:18 AM
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Man, that sucks! Work sucks but without them... no TKI3

Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
I'm 99% sure Tebo is there and 100% sure Cody is, just talked to Cody today as a matter of fact. Wish I could be there but couldn't get the time off work...
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Old 04-20-2012, 01:26 AM
  #9460  
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Originally Posted by Retired09
I have broken the entire gear section off of 3 - 13 tooth clutch bells in the last 2 months on my TKI2. I have drilled the hole in the chassis. Has this happened to any one else?
i have not broke the entire gear section but i was breaking teeth every time out. Check the rear chassis brace. Mine was bent a little and it allowed the chassis to flex just enough to unmesh the gear mesh. Hope this helps you out a bit.
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:52 AM
  #9461  
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When using a after market clutch like buku or m2c, do you need a different clutch bell or will the stock one work on both
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:54 AM
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I think you need a different one. For BUKU, you definitely need those vented clutch bell and highly recommended to be a new one, not used if you are using BUKU for the first time. There is Ascendency clutch bell which is highly recommended.

Last I measured the Kyosho clutch bell is shorter in height comparing to Ascendency or Ofna.

Originally Posted by bkuff-losi
When using a after market clutch like buku or m2c, do you need a different clutch bell or will the stock one work on both
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:54 AM
  #9463  
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Hiya all!

You could check to see if the clutch bell is overheating.
If your clutch bell is all sorts of funky blues, purples and browns... Chances are, the clutch is overheated, and causing the bell to be heat hardened and brittle.

Causes of clutch heating are:
-improper throttling (of cos)
-improper clutch setup
-improper engine tuning
-improper radio setup
-bearings leaking oil or grease into clutch bell
-bearings seizing due to lack of oil or grease or overheating
-clutchbell not shimmed properly
-worn shoes or springs
-too tight gear mesh
-not using the big thin washer in the clutch

If your clutch bell isn't heat discoloured, then it's prolly caused by impact or tight gear mesh (mechanical cause)

Just check your build carefully, rebuild with new clutch items.

Ain't GP buggy fun?

-Alexander
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:17 AM
  #9464  
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Originally Posted by p@p@nut
How do you guys bend the shaft that connects the exhaust pipe to the chasis? Im finding it hard to do..
I have had great success using just a wire hanger you get from the cleaners. Cut it, bend it, and vualla.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:25 AM
  #9465  
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Originally Posted by Retired09
I have broken the entire gear section off of 3 - 13 tooth clutch bells in the last 2 months on my TKI2. I have drilled the hole in the chassis. Has this happened to any one else?
Bill when I first got my K Car I was having the exact same problem as you. After many conversations with some pretty seasoned Kyosho guys, I determined it was my gear mesh causing the problem. I was running a 13/46 combo on factory mounts. I solved the issue by purchasing a KH 3 piece engine mount. This let me slide the engine just a bit more towards the spur gear. Problem solved.

In retrospect, I could have also opened up the holes from the bottom of the chassis to allow for more slide over to the center. Or you could also switch to 14/48 gearing with no modifications and be set.
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