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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 04-01-2012, 11:14 PM
  #9016  
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I usually measure mine where the chassis become flat/straight from front. The downstop screw area that you referring might not be right because it's still on the bend area.

I might be wrong but that's what Hudy said.

Btw you can download the Hudy setup manual here. Great stuff!

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...b7d94be37b8d20


Originally Posted by marmittone
Hi guys,
where do you measure the front ride height? I usually measure it where the downstop screws touch the chassis. Is it correct?

Last edited by drstrangelove; 04-01-2012 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:17 PM
  #9017  
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Originally Posted by drstrangelove
Hey Guys,

Managed to go down to Southern Alley track (Johor, Malaysia) yesterday (my first try on proper track) and I seems to have problem with cornering, when I turn and full throttle the back seems to skid left and right.

i believe it might be the BUKU clutch that I'm using, might not set them properly thus causing that. Maybe i'm being too ambitious to go with BUKU, should dial my driving first before considering BUKU. (Disclaimer, nothing to do with BUKU, just me not doing it correctly)

Next run I will try to use the stock clutch to see if it solve the problem and try to improve my driving (like what someone told me, learn how to walk before you start running ). But overall it's a tough buggy! had a few bad (some real bad) jump and even managed to go out of the track and into the drainage but it is still going strong!

On a separate note, do you guys maintain 2 buggies? One for practice and one racing or you guys just maintain 1? Using them for both practicing and racing. I was advise to maintain one as I was told no 2 buggies are similar even how similar the setup is. You tend to suffer if you are used to the practice buggy and on race day, you are using the racing buggy which you often don't drive. Your opinion on this?
I think the problem is you need to regulate the throttle.. if you try to full throttle out of a turn the rear end will wanna step out on you.. Try to be more gradual on the throttle.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PAGIE #536
i see time and time again people put option or hop up parts on their cars before getting to grips with the car at stock and wonder why the car is a pig to handle try find a base setup and start from there before adding parts etc, so you know whats going on with the car.
Can't help it, get all excited after reading about BUKU. But you are right. I should do that first.

Originally Posted by nicker619
I think the problem is you need to regulate the throttle.. if you try to full throttle out of a turn the rear end will wanna step out on you.. Try to be more gradual on the throttle.
I will give it a try, that's for the tip mate!
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:18 AM
  #9019  
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Originally Posted by ratjayfala
Why have you got a hot bodies sticker on your car?
LOL long story...I had a D8T that I got attached to and had a real hard time letting it go and actually kept it on the shelf for awhile...just in case.
Originally Posted by Taman
Nice looking car
thanks buddy
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:06 AM
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Hey I read a few pages back one of you guys used green slime to stop the center diff from leaking... how is that method compared to doubling up on the gaskets? Which will work better?
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:12 AM
  #9021  
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Originally Posted by Weazsel
Hey I read a few pages back one of you guys used green slime to stop the center diff from leaking... how is that method compared to doubling up on the gaskets? Which will work better?
Im not Paul King or anything but I have some methods. First, you can try lightly sanding the diff case on a piece of glass to ensure it's flat. Then instead of green slime, I use ultra copper. A very light coat on the paper gasket and Ive never had a leak.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:20 AM
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That would be me. I had an issue with the center diff when i changed to the 48T gear. Somehow, it keeps on leaking the diff oil. So what I did was to put some green slime at the back of the gasket (around it) and no more issue with the diff oil leaking out. Hope this help with you too.

Originally Posted by Weazsel
Hey I read a few pages back one of you guys used green slime to stop the center diff from leaking... how is that method compared to doubling up on the gaskets? Which will work better?
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:21 AM
  #9023  
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Originally Posted by Dyno-Dylan
Im not Paul King or anything but I have some methods. First, you can try lightly sanding the diff case on a piece of glass to ensure it's flat. Then instead of green slime, I use ultra copper. A very light coat on the paper gasket and Ive never had a leak.
Cool, thanks for the tip.

You're using this stuff?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002UEOPA

Also are you using a fine sand paper like 800 grit?
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Weazsel
Cool, thanks for the tip.

You're using this stuff?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002UEOPA

Also are you using a fine sand paper like 800 grit?
Yup that's the stuff. Walmart usually has it and so do most auto parts stores. And yes to the sand paper as well.
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:23 PM
  #9025  
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Default KO Propo Electronic Switch 2

Any one using the above switch? If so how long and how do you like it? Presently I use no switch just plug in every time. A little bit of a pain but no faulty mechanic switch run aways!!!!
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:36 PM
  #9026  
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Originally Posted by Retired09
Any one using the above switch? If so how long and how do you like it? Presently I use no switch just plug in every time. A little bit of a pain but no faulty mechanic switch run aways!!!!
I have 3 of them. I really like them but the one in my buggy failed on the third time out. When I turn the switch off the power remains on and vice versa.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:05 PM
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no switch here, power direct.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Retired09
Any one using the above switch? If so how long and how do you like it? Presently I use no switch just plug in every time. A little bit of a pain but no faulty mechanic switch run aways!!!!
I use them in both my bug and trug - love them. I have inadvertently sold a couple more people on them too.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Retired09
Any one using the above switch? If so how long and how do you like it? Presently I use no switch just plug in every time. A little bit of a pain but no faulty mechanic switch run aways!!!!
I love mine. Will never go back to using a mechanical switch. I probably have over 30 hrs of run time on mine and zero issues thus far.

I have run Lipo and Life batteries on them.
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Retired09
Any one using the above switch? If so how long and how do you like it? Presently I use no switch just plug in every time. A little bit of a pain but no faulty mechanic switch run aways!!!!
I love mine. Wont go back either. Once you get over the initial $ticker shock, you realize its well worth the dough for the peice of mind alone. The lipo cutoff and LED display are nice features as well.
Actually there is a a few posts a couple pages back where we were talking about how we were mounting the KO switch
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