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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-31-2012, 03:01 AM
  #8986  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
Funny that you should ask that as I was just about to post the following.

Scott and Mr Smelly: Do you guys (and everyone else, of course) reckon there is anything strange going on with my car and the amount of space from the end of the dogbone to the bottom of the outdrive? From what you've been saying, about having problems if running the 93mm axles and the narrow tread setting, I shouldn't have as much room as is visible in the pic. There is easily more than 2mm there at all points in the range of suspension travel, hence I could very easily run the 93mm axles in the narrow setting and still have some wiggle room, so that the axle won't bottom out.

Does anyone else have so much room with the same setup as what I'm using? How much room should there be with the 91mm axles/2mm offset/narrow tread settings?

Thanks guys.
In your pics the dog pins are parralell to the chassis, turn the axles so they are perpendicular to the chassis then compress the suspension fully. Take a look at the pin in the top groove of the outdrive and you will see what I mean. With 93mm they are very close but not quite bottomed out but in a crash or rollover sometimes not only does the suspension get fully compressed but the suspension gets temporarily distorted causing the axle to bottom out in the groove and either severely flex the end of the shaft or put a permanant bend in the end of the axle right where the ball is. A few of these instances and you have a snapped off ball and dog pin.
Shimming the axles out with the short arm setting will improve the situation but will not get rid of the problem altogether. With 93mm axles shimmed out and with the short setting there is only enough scope to have a maximum of 2 deg neg camber before you are risking a broken axle even more. The track in Canberra is one example where you may need up to 3 deg neg camber due to very high grip levels. In Australia we must use the short setting (especially with normal hubs) in order to pass tech inspection.
We went to 91mm axles with no popout problems but they were twisting and breaking due to poor manufacturing so the next fix was to find and alternative. I had some 777 axles lying around and discovered that the IFW333 was the perfect reliable answer to my problems (perceived or real). And as some would say, the rest is history.
Hope this clarifys it a little.
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:02 AM
  #8987  
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my understanding is that the purpose of running 2mm offset rear hub was to widen the rear tread. am i missing something here. y would everyone run the 93mm drives if we are narrowing the tread width? if i just spent 100 buks to run the same width tread pattern as the stock hubs i'm gonna be a little disappointed can someone explain the purpose of the 2mm rear hubs. i understand the effects of widening or narrowing the width. man this is making me feel like a newb
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Old 03-31-2012, 04:48 AM
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Sorry to give you the bad news eper but the 2mm offset alloy uprights were not designed with the intentions of making the tread width any wider at all. If you read the Kyosho blurb about what's been changed/improved on the TKI2, they make mention of a shorter suspension arm for increased handling response or something of that nature.

So what they mean is that by putting the rear arm pill on the narrow setting, the arm is indeed shortened by the amount of difference between the wide and the narrow setting. I'm guessing this is a difference of 2mm, hence the 2mm offset uprights, to bring the geometry back to where it should be, or at least to where it was on the TKI when running in the wide setting.

Also, what did you spend that $100 on? Please don't say the 2mm rear uprights!! They're all over ebay for $40-$50, brand-new, taken from a kit.
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:55 AM
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Hy aaron,

I did not have any issue with the setup of running 91mm narrow with shimmed on the outside. Did quite a few jumps and had quite a few bad landing too and everything is good.

But my friend who has the same setup as me except that he is using the plastic rear hub carrier had his 91mm popping out on him when he did a jump. Are those plastic rear hub carrier 2mm offset?

He will be changing to the CNC one to see if he still get such issue.

Anyway, Sean, my dirty buggy
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:09 AM
  #8990  
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If he is running the stock plastic hubs with the 91 axles. With the wide setting on the arm he should try to shim the axles on the inside. Otherwise he can move the setting to the middle to help with the popping out issues. If you want to run the wide and shimming don't help the 93's will solve the problem. The plastic hubs are not plus 2mm.
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:33 AM
  #8991  
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Hey ON A MISSION

Thanks. I will double check his setup tomorrow when we head down to Johor track. Will double confirm if he's running narrow or wide, just in case he put them wrongly.

Originally Posted by ON A MISSION
If he is running the stock plastic hubs with the 91 axles. With the wide setting on the arm he should try to shim the axles on the inside. Otherwise he can move the setting to the middle to help with the popping out issues. If you want to run the wide and shimming don't help the 93's will solve the problem. The plastic hubs are not plus 2mm.
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:25 PM
  #8992  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
Sorry to give you the bad news eper but the 2mm offset alloy uprights were not designed with the intentions of making the tread width any wider at all. If you read the Kyosho blurb about what's been changed/improved on the TKI2, they make mention of a shorter suspension arm for increased handling response or something of that nature.

So what they mean is that by putting the rear arm pill on the narrow setting, the arm is indeed shortened by the amount of difference between the wide and the narrow setting. I'm guessing this is a difference of 2mm, hence the 2mm offset uprights, to bring the geometry back to where it should be, or at least to where it was on the TKI when running in the wide setting.

Also, what did you spend that $100 on? Please don't say the 2mm rear uprights!! They're all over ebay for $40-$50, brand-new, taken from a kit.
now iget it. thanks for the help

Last edited by eper; 04-01-2012 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:54 PM
  #8993  
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This might be a lame question. Today was my first day this year with my Kyosho. It was a gloomy day say I didnt get much practice time in. Well at first when I started for the day I had no brakes. Then by the time I got to the main I think added way too much brake. What I mean by this the back end always seemed to want to come around on me. Is that too much front brake or should I be happy with it the way it is?
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:02 PM
  #8994  
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Finally learned how to post pictures...heres my CRE P5XLT powered MP9;


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Old 04-01-2012, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Tanq72
This might be a lame question. Today was my first day this year with my Kyosho. It was a gloomy day say I didnt get much practice time in. Well at first when I started for the day I had no brakes. Then by the time I got to the main I think added way too much brake. What I mean by this the back end always seemed to want to come around on me. Is that too much front brake or should I be happy with it the way it is?
I too thought I had a similar problem a while back when I first started driving my MP9 but for me it was happening at all times, not just while braking. By that, I mean even when just slowing by engine braking/backing off the throttle, the back-end would always want to come around and the car would oversteer even with just a little bit of steering input.

Not sure how you came to the conclusion it might be too much front brakes for you, as normally too much front brake would cause the car to plow straight on, understeering heaps. Too much rear brake would cause a car to oversteer.

Anyway, for me, it turned out to be because of the ride height. I started out with Cody's general baseline setup and the way he sets up his ride, with 1-2mm lower front ride height than rear, just made my car have WAY too much off throttle steering. I setup the car so that front and rear ride heights are the same and problem solved.

A quick and easy way for you to figure out if the problem is being caused by too much front or rear brakes would be to simply unscrew the rear brake rod by quite a bit, so that the car has only front brakes. Then see if the problem is still there. Do the opposite, so fronts are effectively disabled and you only have rear brakes and you'll know exactly what's causing the oversteer issue, whether it's too much front or rear brakes.

If the oversteer still happens even when not using the brakes, perhaps like me, it could be a setup thing. Give that a try and see if it helps. At the very least, you'll know for future reference, what too much front or rear brakes feels like.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:46 AM
  #8996  
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Originally Posted by Neesh
Finally learned how to post pictures...heres my CRE P5XLT powered MP9;


Why have you got a hot bodies sticker on your car?
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Neesh
Finally learned how to post pictures...heres my CRE P5XLT powered MP9;
Nice looking car
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:24 PM
  #8998  
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Here is my MP9 for 2012
Attached Thumbnails Inferno MP9 thread-img_0007.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2012, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by joecool
Here is my MP9 for 2012
Nice ride ...
It is just me,or you'r shock body is in black ?
Did some re anodize ?
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Old 04-01-2012, 04:50 PM
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Whats everyones diff setups?
ive tried 5-5-3 and 7-4-4
The 553 was good but the car felt like it wasnt pulling itself out of the corners, but 744 did but make the car snap hard out of the corners, sometimes almost spinning the car out.
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