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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-22-2012, 06:15 AM
  #8851  
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You are correct, those pills in the front tower do adjust the roll centre. As to whether or not you will gain traction, that's not possible to say without qualifying exactly where and when you will gain traction and knowing what settings you had before making the change.

But think of it this way - there is only so much traction a car is able to generate and this is fixed. The traction can be moved around from front to rear or while in a corner, entering a corner, exiting a corner, etc. But whatever adjustment is made, if (for example) it gives more traction/steering on the way into a corner, it will usually reduce traction/steering coming out of the corner or if suspension works better in bumps, the car won't steer as well and will be less responsive. There is always a trade-off because the overall amount of traction the car can generate doesn't change unless the weight of the car changes.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:31 AM
  #8852  
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I found this :

So if we set the front pill in a way that the upper arm is parallel to lower one.

Parallel Link
(Parallel to lower arm) A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.
It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.


Angled Link
(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside) An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.
It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.
The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.
On bumpy tracks, it could be possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilising the car.

Can anyone validate this ?
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:28 AM
  #8853  
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Originally Posted by c2k
Guys ,

Thanks for the in depth explanation but i am afraid i did not explained myself . In the front tower you can change the upper bushing from H to L or 9. This changes the front upper arm height and angle. and i donīt understand what it does this affect the car handling. I believe that in the L position will affect the front Roll Center and i should gain more front traction . Am i right ???

Attached the eluding setting .

Thanks and Cheers, .
I think in our kyosho c-hub style suspension the upper arm is really just used used for stabilty , you just need to adjust its angle and f/b location so as not to let it bind during suspension travel
In a pillow ball suspension the upper arm is actually used to adjust the overall caster

Aside from camber angle
The goood ol hudy setup book

Last edited by houston; 03-22-2012 at 05:10 PM.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:27 AM
  #8854  
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Hey PK why did you guys run so much camber at The Dirt? I also see you went up on center diff oil??? I watched this race on Liverc and his car looked great until he went out.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:31 PM
  #8855  
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.

Last edited by likeaboss; 03-23-2012 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:52 PM
  #8856  
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i know its been answered a million times on here but whats the part number for the pistons you guys are running. most of you guys are running the straight hole pistons right? and the aprt number for the rear + rear hubs would be helpfull

Last edited by eper; 03-22-2012 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:20 PM
  #8857  
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Originally Posted by houston
I think in our kyosho c-hub style suspension the upper arm is really just used used for stabilty , you just need to adjust its angle and f/b location so as not to let it bind during suspension travel
In a pillow ball suspension the upper arm is actually used to adjust the overall caster

Aside from camber angle
The goood ol hudy setup book
+1 (mechanical bind) mugen
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:13 PM
  #8858  
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Default fuel tube

how about some fuel tube routing pics, keep getting a small tear in my tube right after the filter. Looking for some different ideas.
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kbone
how about some fuel tube routing pics, keep getting a small tear in my tube right after the filter. Looking for some different ideas.
round off the end of the filter
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:01 PM
  #8860  
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Originally Posted by kbone
how about some fuel tube routing pics, keep getting a small tear in my tube right after the filter. Looking for some different ideas.
Just put about 1 inch of heat shrink over the fuel tube starting at the back of the fuel filter. It is from the air filter bouncing when jumping and the housing hits right on the end of the fuel filter nipple. Heat shrink stops this problem

Scott
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:29 PM
  #8861  
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who's heading out to Thunder Alley this weekend for the Grass Roots series on Sunday...see you out there!
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:01 PM
  #8862  
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Thinking about picking up the front alloy hub carriers. Any noticed a performance difference over the plastic ones?
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:43 PM
  #8863  
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Originally Posted by hookem34
Thinking about picking up the front alloy hub carriers. Any noticed a performance difference over the plastic ones?
They'll take a little flex out of the front end. It's subtle, but there's a difference and it's pronounced on high bite tracks. Just makes the car feel more connected. I ran em at DNC and loved them. You do have to be a little more careful though, since you're replacing plastic with aluminum the stress the plastic hub carrier would have absorbed is now transmitted elsewhere.
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:07 AM
  #8864  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
who's heading out to Thunder Alley this weekend for the Grass Roots series on Sunday...see you out there!
See 'ya there Sean.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:41 AM
  #8865  
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2012 New Ride



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