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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 10-28-2011, 09:18 AM
  #7381  
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Any input on which after market chassis is preferred? Will king heads extended motor mount take care of clutch bell hitting?
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:48 AM
  #7382  
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Originally Posted by Dusttt
Any input on which after market chassis is preferred? Will king heads extended motor mount take care of clutch bell hitting?
So far I would have to say BCE is the top choice. Just about every platform the BCE is the upgrade for the stock chassis. Better wear, added length....etc..etc
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:57 AM
  #7383  
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Who is selling BCE mp9 chassis?

I tried to order one from bcespeed but I get no feedback from them about order progress, shipment and so on, maybe I have to cancel this order and try my luck somewhere else.
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Old 10-28-2011, 03:56 PM
  #7384  
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First off I like to say sorry if I am posting this on the wrong thread. If there is a better place to ask the below questions please let me know.

With that said I have an MP9 pre TKI2 spec. I want to convert it to Brushless.

My questions are:

- What is the best conversion kit?
- Should I upgrade to TKI2 specs in the process?
- Is there a upgrade kit for that ?
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:47 PM
  #7385  
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Originally Posted by NEMMITH
First off I like to say sorry if I am posting this on the wrong thread. If there is a better place to ask the below questions please let me know.

With that said I have an MP9 pre TKI2 spec. I want to convert it to Brushless.

My questions are:

- What is the best conversion kit?
- Should I upgrade to TKI2 specs in the process?
- Is there a upgrade kit for that ?
1 I like the K conversion as it keeps the Kyosho geometry

2 its really up to you.. threaded shock are nice.. (im selling some fronts for cheap)

3 No
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Old 10-29-2011, 06:36 AM
  #7386  
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I went last night and ran indoors with a buddy that also has a TKI 2 with the stock chassis. We ran nose to tail tank after tank after tank, after doing that, on the way home we discussed the differences.
There IS a extremely noticeable difference, the BCE calms the car in the rough and alows you to push it in areas without geting the nervous car feel. Corner speed is very noticeable between the two chassis, we would enter the sweeper and you could see me close the gap by 3 to 4 car lenghts when i was following.
Last but not least, when he drove my car(with the exact same setup as his) he was turning into tubes for a couple laps *steering* is awsome !!! It must be a weight balance thing idk, the chassis (BCE) gives the car awsome steering but not like the steering you get when you take away castor (twitchy,nervous) its just steering that you have and can use to attack you competitor.

Must say ,,,,,,, I LOVE THIS CAR !!!!!!!!! It is a true blast to drive and has improved my lap times over the MBX6. Competition beware

Scott
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:15 AM
  #7387  
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ok so new kit will be here today. I ordered BCE chassis, alum chubs,and battery forward. Anything else suggested?
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:21 AM
  #7388  
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Dammit Scott Im glad you love the car. I'm going to run the tki1 chassic b/c
it stiffer than the tki2 chassis. I'll give feed on it as well
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:14 PM
  #7389  
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Originally Posted by Coach Townsend
Dammit Scott Im glad you love the car. I'm going to run the tki1 chassic b/c
it stiffer than the tki2 chassis. I'll give feed on it as well
LOL,

I have a question about the difference in the rear hubs??? I have the offset rear hubs and the standard allumi. hubs. I ran the offset hubs out side because they were on the car when i assembled it but with them on there is NO visable toe?? Even with the 3 deg pill.
When we went indoors my car was loose BAD, so i put the standard alluminum hubs on and the car was locked down! Out side the car was very good with the offset hubs, actually better than anyone else at the track that day and the out doors track was dusty and loose. The indoors track is hard packed and gets slick at the end of the day.

So anyone that has some knowledge in this area would be greatly appricated, thanks in advance.

Scott
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:27 PM
  #7390  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
LOL,

I have a question about the difference in the rear hubs??? I have the offset rear hubs and the standard allumi. hubs. I ran the offset hubs out side because they were on the car when i assembled it but with them on there is NO visable toe?? Even with the 3 deg pill.
When we went indoors my car was loose BAD, so i put the standard alluminum hubs on and the car was locked down! Out side the car was very good with the offset hubs, actually better than anyone else at the track that day and the out doors track was dusty and loose. The indoors track is hard packed and gets slick at the end of the day.

So anyone that has some knowledge in this area would be greatly appricated, thanks in advance.

Scott
Changing the rear hub carriers will change your rear roll stiffness, as you will need to lengthen your rear camber links when going from the 2mm offset to the std. hub carriers. I'm not sure because I didn't see your car, but chances are you were overpowering the rear end indoors and it was breaking loose with the 2mm offset hubs on (lower rear roll stiffness). Lengthening the camber links caused you to have an increased rear roll stiffness and made it so you could take advantage of the increased traction. Vice versa for outdoors - the 2mm offset hubs will decrease your rear roll stiffness and make the car a bit better through the bumps - the camber link is shorter so the moment arm connecting the rear hub carrier to the tower is shorter, allowing the hub carrier to move more freely. These differences are very small - what were your running for tires in both cases?

Not sure about the toe difference you noticed - I ran both hub carriers back to back this past weekend and didn't notice a difference in toe. Check your hinge pins and pills and make sure nothing's bent or out of place; also check your arms and make sure they aren't tweaked.
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Old 10-29-2011, 12:55 PM
  #7391  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Changing the rear hub carriers will change your rear roll stiffness, as you will need to lengthen your rear camber links when going from the 2mm offset to the std. hub carriers. I'm not sure because I didn't see your car, but chances are you were overpowering the rear end indoors and it was breaking loose with the 2mm offset hubs on (lower rear roll stiffness). Lengthening the camber links caused you to have an increased rear roll stiffness and made it so you could take advantage of the increased traction. Vice versa for outdoors - the 2mm offset hubs will decrease your rear roll stiffness and make the car a bit better through the bumps - the camber link is shorter so the moment arm connecting the rear hub carrier to the tower is shorter, allowing the hub carrier to move more freely. These differences are very small - what were your running for tires in both cases?

Not sure about the toe difference you noticed - I ran both hub carriers back to back this past weekend and didn't notice a difference in toe. Check your hinge pins and pills and make sure nothing's bent or out of place; also check your arms and make sure they aren't tweaked.
All pills are new and placed in their proper position, no arms are tweaked or cracked, hindge pins are all straight.
If you install a offset hub on one side and a standard hub on the other, then look down from above your car and compare the tread of your tire to the side dam of your wing. When i did this the offset side,,, the tire tread lines up almost parallel to the wing and the standard side looks like a normal 3deg toe in would, it points in toward the chassis. Try this and see if it is the same for you?

Tires i ran were the same as everyone runs at both tracks, the tracks are very tire spacific.

Scott
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:08 AM
  #7392  
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I would like to get some ideas on which clutch to run on the TKI2. Are most of you guys useing the stock clutch or one of the after market clutches..ie werks or M2C. Thanks for the information.
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:15 AM
  #7393  
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i run the ascendancy clutch works really well clutch shoes last a long a time ,comes with .09,1.0 and 1.1 clutch springs,clutch is so smooth
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Old 10-30-2011, 07:20 AM
  #7394  
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Originally Posted by kwilke
i run the ascendancy clutch works really well clutch shoes last a long a time ,comes with .09,1.0 and 1.1 clutch springs,clutch is so smooth
Same here, really like the 2 x 0.9mm and 2 x 1.0mm springs in buggy. Smooth and lasts a long time, doesn't need much maintenance either.
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:08 AM
  #7395  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
All pills are new and placed in their proper position, no arms are tweaked or cracked, hindge pins are all straight.
If you install a offset hub on one side and a standard hub on the other, then look down from above your car and compare the tread of your tire to the side dam of your wing. When i did this the offset side,,, the tire tread lines up almost parallel to the wing and the standard side looks like a normal 3deg toe in would, it points in toward the chassis. Try this and see if it is the same for you?

Tires i ran were the same as everyone runs at both tracks, the tracks are very tire spacific.

Scott
Is it the same situation if you flip the hub carriers to the opposite sides of the car? The only thing I can think of is check your rear track width pills, maybe on one side of the car the rear one is on the inner setting and the front is on the outer setting giving you toe out at the hub carrier...?? Do you set the camber so that both sides have the same negative camber with the different hub carriers?
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