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Inferno MP9 thread

Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 10-12-2011, 08:21 AM
  #7246  
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hey guys,

just a small question. i still run my TKI1 since day one and never had a problem with the stock dogbones!!!

why is everyone going to CVDs??
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:53 AM
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You guys that are replacing the universals......still using the KYOIF456's??

I have been running mine now for several long practices and several races now and see just a small sign of wear. Not sure why folks are having problems. My TKi2 has been bulletproof.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by KWT-NITRO View Post
hey guys,

just a small question. i still run my TKI1 since day one and never had a problem with the stock dogbones!!!

why is everyone going to CVDs??
That would have to depend on your definition of 'everyone' as I'm sure that a large majority would be using the standard universals, IF456. As for this minority author, I have been running IF419 up front since they were released and IF456 in the rear.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:09 AM
  #7249  
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I just recently switched to the TKI2 alum rear hubs. I have broke one used 91mm universal since putting them on. I have installed a new set of 91 universals to test if i run into more problems. I personally have not seen the outdrives wear at the rate people are talking about. I will get back on and post after i run.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:11 AM
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The driveaxles are fine , it was a problem with the outdrives

All is good in yoshi land now
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:11 AM
  #7251  
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When running the +2mm rear aluminum hubs, you can't change the tread width with bushings can you?

I bought my tki2 with wc upgrades second hand and noticed the 91mm in the rear and 93mm shafts in the front. Just want to know if I can quickly change rear tread witdth.

Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:14 AM
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You still adjust it using the inserts at the end of the lower suspension arms, doesn't matter which driveshaft length is in being used.
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
The driveaxles are fine , it was a problem with the outdrives

All is good in yoshi land now
So my outdrives are too stong and are breaking my universals ?
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron125 View Post
You still adjust it using the inserts at the end of the lower suspension arms, doesn't matter which driveshaft length is in being used.
Ok. So what is the front/rear tread section on the set up sheets referring to? You can mark s/m/l and I assumed this was achieved with the lower bushing in the rear hubs.
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:02 AM
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There's nothing that can be changed or altered with the rear hub inserts, they are there for a snug fit on the hinge-pin as it woud otherwise be inserted directly into the metal of the hub.

The S/M/L you refer to is for changing the rear track width (with the insert in the end of the suspension arm). Some (very few) have been known to try and use this for an outboard toe adjustment but it is not intended to be used in that way.

Front tread width is adjusted with the inserts at the back of the gearbox in the front lower rear hinge-pin holder. It only has 2 positions, S/L.

Last edited by aaron125; 10-12-2011 at 10:04 AM. Reason: front tread added
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by J.KiSSINGER View Post
So my outdrives are too stong and are breaking my universals ?
The notches in the outdrives are breaking them silly , or they are bottoming out in the od cup during uptravel
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron125 View Post
There's nothing that can be changed or altered with the rear hub inserts, they are there for a snug fit on the hinge-pin as it woud otherwise be inserted directly into the metal of the hub.

The S/M/L you refer to is for changing the rear track width (with the insert in the end of the suspension arm). Some (very few) have been known to try and use this for an outboard toe adjustment but it is not intended to be used in that way.

Front tread width is adjusted with the inserts at the back of the gearbox in the front lower rear hinge-pin holder. It only has 2 positions, S/L.

Got it! Thanks for the explination Aaron.

So can you run the L position in the rear with the 91mm shafts without issues, or will they pop out on uptravel?
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Old 10-12-2011, 11:13 AM
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Good question, depends on your setup. Is that with the +2mm hubs or the standard version (same as plastic)? Without the 2mm offset, with 91mm driveshafts, answer is yes. Any other setup, not sure. Why do you want to run in the L position?
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
The notches in the outdrives are breaking them silly , or they are bottoming out in the od cup during uptravel
No thats not it , there are no notches in my outdrives and these are the 91mm axles ... Good answer though i'm thinking the bad run of outdrives, maybe a bad run of axles. If i break another 91 mm those +2 hubs are gone ...
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by aaron125 View Post
Good question, depends on your setup. Is that with the +2mm hubs or the standard version (same as plastic)? Without the 2mm offset, with 91mm driveshafts, answer is yes. Any other setup, not sure. Why do you want to run in the L position?
+2mm hubs.

Not sure what the effects will be if I do change to L setting. Just curious I guess.
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