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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 09-15-2011, 05:56 PM
  #6871  
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Originally Posted by underway
Started the TKI2 build today. Front diff case I was not able to get the diff shim to fit. Does it take some time for the diff case to stretch to allow that shim to go on. I'm talking on the gear side. thanks
I have seen some that don't need a shim. Just check to make sure the diff isn't moving back and forth in the gear box after you screw the cover on. Later you can check the mesh and add a shim if needed.

Originally Posted by ratjayfala
Can someone let me know what effect changing the front skid angle would have? I'm guessing it would effect the caster angle?
Aside from the obvious effect on the caster angle, the suspension acts differently. With more kick-up, the front suspension is more active in the bumps, dives more on braking, and will also transfer more weight to the rear on acceleration. You will also get more entrance steering and less exit. Less front kick-up has the opposite effect. To give you a comparison, in on-road sometimes they use reverse kick-up to keep the car flat.
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:02 PM
  #6872  
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Hey guys I was looking at rear hubs and looking at it has two rows of adjustments for the camber link. I assume the high row will give better rotation and the lower holes will give more rear traction, and even more as you work your way out on the hub?? Just want to make sure I am getting this right. Also I have seen where some MP9's are running the rear toe inserts upside down??? Any reason for this. I am assuming this changes the roll center by flipping it up side down and also changes the anti-squat.
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:10 PM
  #6873  
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Are you talking about the 13x16x0.15mm shim in step 14? If so, as the manual so eloquently points out, "Adjust with shim to set the optimal gear backlash (so there is still slight movement between the gears)." WTF?? How is any person of reasonable intelligence meant to know what Kyosho's version of optimal or slight equates to? One persons 'slight' might be another persons 'way too much'. Even if we read the manuals from other brands and they have adequate instructions about how to set the backlash, how is one meant to know if the Kyosho gears, cases, etc. are designed to use far less (or far more) backlash than the other brand needs?

For years I've read the same crap in Kyosho manuals for MP7.5, 777 and still now with the MP9. Well, if the ST-RR Evo manual is a sign of brighter times ahead, bring em on! Finally!! An actual explanation and explicit instructions describing in detail how to set the "optimal gear backlash" and have a better than vague idea of just what optimal is.

Read the page about setting diff backlash from the ST-RR Evo manual and all your questions will be answered.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:01 PM
  #6874  
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You must remember that the MP9s etc are a top level race buggy and not aimed at youre first time builder or racer so they would know what the right amount of backlash is.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:09 PM
  #6875  
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Originally Posted by underway
Started the TKI2 build today. Front diff case I was not able to get the diff shim to fit. Does it take some time for the diff case to stretch to allow that shim to go on. I'm talking on the gear side. thanks
My Son and I have four MP9's between us and ALL of them have just one shim on the gear side front and rear and thats it. Never had to do anything else.

The only other thing we do which is not in the book is to put a .3mm clutch shim on the pinion shaft to put the pinion that little bit closer to the diff case, not sure if it's really needed but when you do the teeth are in full mesh which imo gives it that little more reliability and life. Not that is has been a problem, just me being fussy. Just make sure the grub screw in the case is not proud of the case or the pinion will hit.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:31 PM
  #6876  
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Originally Posted by malcnz
You must remember that the MP9s etc are a top level race buggy and not aimed at youre first time builder or racer so they would know what the right amount of backlash is.
I have to respectfully disagree. Why do so many racers have absolutely no idea of how much backlash they should be running or even what gear mesh really is. Also, Kyosho nitro 1/8th buggy manuals are just absolutely hopeless as far as telling the builder anything other than which part goes where. How many times have I seen or heard of a 'racer' setting their steering EPA while their vehicle is on a stand? Not much use unless racing with the wheels off the ground. But they're racer's... does that mean persons who race cannot be told or taught anything?

Back to Kyosho bashing. For example, they still do this and have been for years, telling us to fill diffs to 80%. WTF!!?? How many people have ever bothered to measure how much fluid they use when filling a diff? Almost every other brand simply has a line marked in the diff or even better says that doesn't need any guess-work, like "Fill until fluid covers gears or shafts". What about thread-lock? It is so rarely used in Kyosho manual. Regardless if the buggy is for a racer or not. Why does Losi and Xray and Serpent fill out their manuals with so much useful information? They are definitely racing brands and I'm talking about their nitro buggy manuals, not some 1/12 scale electric or RTR something.

Nope, Kyosho just absolutely suck in the instruction manual department.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:42 PM
  #6877  
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Sorry I cant answer why so many racers dont know about backlash but they soon find out after stripping the crown and pinion
I recently built a serpent and the instructions were some of the worst I have seen.
Have also built Losis and there manuels are ok and xray arent to bad either but they all have there faults...I mean with regards to filling diffs Losi tell you one way in the manuel and then Drake tells you the right way on a utube video...also you need to run the rear diffs tight in a Losi truggy but they dont tell you that until you start asking on the forums ..I sold my Losi truggy to a fellow racer and he thought my diff mesh was to tight so he loosened it off and next race he stripped the crown and pinion...manuels are notoriously out of date in any industry.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:49 PM
  #6878  
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Originally Posted by jzemaxx
Hey guys I was looking at rear hubs and looking at it has two rows of adjustments for the camber link. I assume the high row will give better rotation and the lower holes will give more rear traction, and even more as you work your way out on the hub?? Just want to make sure I am getting this right. Also I have seen where some MP9's are running the rear toe inserts upside down??? Any reason for this. I am assuming this changes the roll center by flipping it up side down and also changes the anti-squat.
you pretty much have it right.. the part about moving to the outer holes doesn't necessarily mean more traction or less. If you lengthen the camber link, you will have less camber gain when the suspension compresses, and more positive camber "push" as I like to call it, at the apex of the corner. You want the numbers upside down and the dots out on the rear toe inserts..
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:52 PM
  #6879  
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That's exactly my point, lol. Drake's method is simply his method, not the 'right' or 'wrong' way, but his way. Ask Mr King and I'm sure he would say something other than 'I use the Drake method for filling diffs'.

If manuals are out of date, then the manufacturers need to get with it and update them. No excuses.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:56 PM
  #6880  
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Drake is Losi you mean
not making excuses just explaining the way it is with manuels.

Anyway any one know where I can get an MP9 WC kit that send international as they are near impossible to find..Thanks.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:57 PM
  #6881  
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as long as I'm on here... we fill the diffs all the way up, and put the last gear in the diff before putting the crown/spur on. Then we line up the pin slot on the gear and the pin with the screw holes and put on the gear. Much less spillage than trying to mash the big gear into the oil when you screw the thing together

backlash is not needed in these toy cars.. just get it as tight as you can with no binding, problem solved..
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:58 PM
  #6882  
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Anyone know why the TKI2 brake discs (IF468) are completely matte black, not silver/steel coloured as the very pretty TKI (IF415) ones are? Do they wear down to a silver colour after a bit of use?

The current TKI2 just about is a WC anyway. Most WC specific bits can now be purchased. I think WC kits stopped selling about a month ago.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:07 PM
  #6883  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
Anyone know why the TKI2 brake discs (IF468) are completely matte black, not silver/steel coloured as the very pretty TKI (IF415) ones are? Do they wear down to a silver colour after a bit of use?

The current TKI2 just about is a WC anyway. Most WC specific bits can now be purchased. I think WC kits stopped selling about a month ago.
Yeah looks like it but would be nice to get the thicker front tower and forward battery for same cost . and saves having to buy them as extra.
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Old 09-16-2011, 02:42 AM
  #6884  
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have any of you guys converted your nitros to electric. trying to get an opinion on which conversion i should go with. either the tekno or the kyosho. right know i'm leaning towards the kyosho
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Old 09-16-2011, 05:15 AM
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Paul what is the hot shock piston and oil setup your using on Cody's buggy at the moment?
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