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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 04-10-2011, 10:57 AM
  #5386  
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Originally Posted by infanterene
How much longer does the hard coated chassis last. My WC chassis is almost gone after 2 practice days, a state race weekend and a club race.

I am getting ready to build my practice car. Anything I can do to the chassis to make it last longer? maybe powder coat the bottom?
I have been using the DE skids and they are ok as they help with chassis wear on the ends.
Part #DER-210-K
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:27 AM
  #5387  
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Originally Posted by Peter Martin
F Orange IF-350-7514
R Yellow IS-106-9514
Thank you.
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:25 PM
  #5388  
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Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
Page 306 post 4580:there is the pics of Cody's drilled chassis....
Thanks!
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:21 PM
  #5389  
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Selling my TKI2 http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-tki2-f-s.html
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:35 PM
  #5390  
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Originally Posted by infanterene
Anyone have a pic of these holes? I have clearenced different chassis with a dremmel before but i have never seen a hole.
i just dremmel my chacis,until now is fine

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Old 04-11-2011, 07:21 AM
  #5391  
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Cody 3. Place truggy and 2. Place in buggy (victory was in the air) ,Tebo 2. Truggy and 4. buggy at Silver State!Way to go!Congratulation!
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:44 AM
  #5392  
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Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
Cody 3. Place truggy and 2. Place in buggy (victory was in the air) ,Tebo 2. Truggy and 4. buggy at Silver State!Way to go!Congratulation!
congratulation kyosho driver
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:15 AM
  #5393  
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Looks like Cody and Lutz turned the fastest laps in the main.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by aaron125
Umm... it's no longer a filter if you remove the screen, just a silver canister/tube doing nothing. What would be the point of removing the filter screen but leaving the filter body? I would have thought that if it's greater fuel flow you're after, then having straight fuel line & no filter canister would be far better because you necessarily have to lose fuel line pressure by having the filter canister there, even more so if you're going to have the 2nd filter canister in the loop (but seems like you'd have it there for no apparent reason?). What would you use to protect the engine if a chunk of dirt got in the tank while refueling & was subsequently sucked staight into the engine (with obvious consequenses)?

If you ask me (and I know you didn't) far too much risk for such minimal gain. Is there some method to your madness?
The stock tank is less than 125cc, something like 122cc. I added the 2nd filter to gain fuel capacity, nothing more. The filters have more volume than the equivalent length of fuel line. I'm not too worried about getting dirt sucked up into the fuel lines, there's a filter in the tank that can handle that duty just fine. Plenty of other brands have zero fuel filter and I don't see any of those drivers grenading engines in less time. I think of the fuel filters like capacitors-a place for fuel to simply be stored.

Also, since air is less dense than fuel, wouldn't air be sucked through a screen faster than fuel? I'm not sure I follow how a filter screen is supposed to prevent air from reaching your engine faster than fuel in the event you are upside down or get a bubble in your system.
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:56 PM
  #5395  
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I use this to drill the chassis...



It's called an Irwin Unibit. If you google it there are tons of places to buy it. I watched Kanai use this a few times and decided to get my own. It's really easy to use. Looking at the chassis from the top, you just need to drill it right in the middle of the square recess machined in the chassis for the clutch bell.

Thanks for the props guys! I really thought Cody was going to bring home the bacon this time, but he crashed a couple more times than Ryan, so that's the way it goes. Great race though. We softened the center and rear diff fluid on a whim just one race before the start of the final and I really think it payed off. We ran 5/4/2...
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Old 04-11-2011, 06:11 PM
  #5396  
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Originally Posted by pitpop
I use this to drill the chassis...



It's called an Irwin Unibit. If you google it there are tons of places to buy it. I watched Kanai use this a few times and decided to get my own. It's really easy to use. Looking at the chassis from the top, you just need to drill it right in the middle of the square recess machined in the chassis for the clutch bell.

Thanks for the props guys! I really thought Cody was going to bring home the bacon this time, but he crashed a couple more times than Ryan, so that's the way it goes. Great race though. We softened the center and rear diff fluid on a whim just one race before the start of the final and I really think it payed off. We ran 5/4/2...
What springs and shock pistons did you guys run on that crazily blown out track lol. Saw the 8 min vid on Neo, very entertaining.
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:16 PM
  #5397  
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Originally Posted by mcion
What springs and shock pistons did you guys run on that crazily blown out track lol. Saw the 8 min vid on Neo, very entertaining.
F = orange spring/1.3 x 8 straight hole piston/TL 45
R = yellow spring/1.3 x 8 straight hole piston/TL 30
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:39 AM
  #5398  
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Originally Posted by infanterene
Anyone have a pic of these holes? I have clearenced different chassis with a dremmel before but i have never seen a hole.
Hey bud, yes the coating does wear off quickly but doesn't mean it's no good trust me, especially if you ran at Mills Ponds I heard it was asphalt out there, that could easily take the coating off. I mainly run at the asylum a little more north but still hard grooved I put a lot of wear on my chassis and plastics.

I might have met you, I'm Andy Ive been at The Asylum every race there and Lake Park, always with a Kyosho shirt.

Andy
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:51 AM
  #5399  
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The brown anodized and hard anodized chassis are the same material, Japanese 7075 aluminum. Once the coating wears off, you are dealing with the same material. Our chassis is easily the best on the market, nobody else uses 7075.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:57 AM
  #5400  
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PK YGM
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