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Inferno MP9 thread

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R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 04-09-2011, 07:19 PM
  #5371  
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There is a big list of improvements but they will all backfit to your car.

Depending on your level of skill as to what you really need.

There are different rear shocks and tower on the rear but imo not really that important until you get back into the swing of things, same goes for the forward batt mount.

For reliability go for the ally rear lower suspension holder, ally wing stay spacers, ally servo tray uprights, ally front upper suspension holder, revised upper arm set, rear outer suspension pivot shafts, ally TKI2 rear hub carriers(these will work well with the existing 91mm axles you have).
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:20 PM
  #5372  
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Both Cody and Tebo used there regular set ups. Cody's set ups are on Infernos only.com

I like Tebo's set up better for me. The rear end is the difference.
Wide rear track
non-offset AL hubs/upper lower hole with wide hexes
Shocks out on arm
120/121 droop
2 degree anti squat

All else like Cody.

Also when the track is loose and or rough I swap out the light blue springs for Orange F and Yellow R. 1.4 wire diameter and try it. Usually works well.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:33 PM
  #5373  
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Guys, I really appreciate the info!! I am glad to know that I have not missed much other that the skill level that once had. I have been flting heli's since I left racing and I hope that flying has helped me retain the feel for the hand-eye control.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:47 PM
  #5374  
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Well just got back from running the Orange springs in the front and the yellow in the rear with 45 1.3*8 inthe front and 32 1/2 n the rear. The front towers in the middle hole and #9 bushing and middle on the rear tower. On a CAT PISS slick track and the body roll was just enough for the light buggy. But had JUST a little too much steering so I'm going back to the L in the front. Started top of the Bmain bumped out. Started last in the A main after one lap in I was sitting three But Stupid transponder went bad andi pulled it n for the day.


MORE FEEDBACK ON THE YELLOW REAR SPRINGS
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:16 AM
  #5375  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
Siiiick! Is that white pressure line a kyosho product? I thought it was just curious and don't have the details in front of me. I'll do some quick searching. Do you run the screen in your fuel filter? I run dual filters, and heard guys took the screens out for slightly better fuel delivery. Probably going to take the screens out of mine.
Umm... it's no longer a filter if you remove the screen, just a silver canister/tube doing nothing. What would be the point of removing the filter screen but leaving the filter body? I would have thought that if it's greater fuel flow you're after, then having straight fuel line & no filter canister would be far better because you necessarily have to lose fuel line pressure by having the filter canister there, even more so if you're going to have the 2nd filter canister in the loop (but seems like you'd have it there for no apparent reason?). What would you use to protect the engine if a chunk of dirt got in the tank while refueling & was subsequently sucked staight into the engine (with obvious consequenses)?

If you ask me (and I know you didn't) far too much risk for such minimal gain. Is there some method to your madness?
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:19 AM
  #5376  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
Umm... it's no longer a filter if you remove the screen, just a silver canister/tube doing nothing. What would be the point of removing the filter screen but leaving the filter body? I would have thought that if it's greater fuel flow you're after, then having straight fuel line & no filter canister would be far better because you necessarily have to lose fuel line pressure by having the filter canister there, even more so if you're going to have the 2nd filter canister in the loop (but seems like you'd have it there for no apparent reason?). What would you use to protect the engine if a chunk of dirt got in the tank while refueling & was subsequently sucked staight into the engine (with obvious consequenses)?

If you ask me (and I know you didn't) far too much risk for such minimal gain. Is there some method to your madness?
The way I see it is the screen is needed but not only for filtering, it also serves to let the air that collects in the filter chamber out in a controlled manner so as the help avoid flameouts after the car has been on it's lid. There is a filter in the tank for the dirt.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:32 AM
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I've always wondered how effective the in-tank filters really are because just about every time I've checked & cleaned my in-line filter, there's always some sort of crud in there. And when an engine can cost anywhere from $200-$500+ I know I would much prefer to have too much rather than too little filtering going on coz it's only going to be safer for the bank balance as well as the engine. The reality is that most of us are not sponsored & have to work a day job to afford & pay for all the toys we like to use so anything so inexpensive & effective at lengthening the time between those big item payouts is welcome.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:35 AM
  #5378  
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Originally Posted by aaron125
I've always wondered how effective the in-tank filters really are because just about every time I've checked & cleaned my in-line filter, there's always some sort of crud in there. And when an engine can cost anywhere from $200-$500+ I know I would much prefer to have too much rather than too little filtering going on coz it's only going to be safer for the bank balance as well as the engine. The reality is that most of us are not sponsored & have to work a day job to afford & pay for all the toys we like to use so anything so inexpensive & effective at lengthening the time between those big item payouts is welcome.
Agreed, I was just saying that for whatever reason the screen should be in the filter.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:41 AM
  #5379  
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Ya I misunderstood you, thought you were implying the in-tank filter was sufficient to do the job. Must say though, never thought about the filter screen helping with air flow & flame-outs, they are some good points you make.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:37 AM
  #5380  
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Originally Posted by Peter Martin
Also when the track is loose and or rough I swap out the light blue springs for Orange F and Yellow R. 1.4 wire diameter and try it. Usually works well.
What's the part# of yellow and orange springs?
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:14 AM
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F Orange IF-350-7514
R Yellow IS-106-9514
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:20 AM
  #5382  
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Originally Posted by freefallmarine
The hole they cut is in front of the flywheel. Where you see the cnc cut for the clutchbell. They put a hole there, so when the chassis flexes, the clutchbell doesn't make contact with the chassis. There have been MP9 owner's who have cracked there chassis cause of flex.

Anyone have a pic of these holes? I have clearenced different chassis with a dremmel before but i have never seen a hole.
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:32 AM
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How much longer does the hard coated chassis last. My WC chassis is almost gone after 2 practice days, a state race weekend and a club race.

I am getting ready to build my practice car. Anything I can do to the chassis to make it last longer? maybe powder coat the bottom?
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:50 AM
  #5384  
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Originally Posted by infanterene
Anyone have a pic of these holes? I have clearenced different chassis with a dremmel before but i have never seen a hole.
Pitpop posted a pics of that hole here on rctech few months ago ....I know its take some time but you can just go through the posts from like December ....
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:12 AM
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Page 306 post 4580:there is the pics of Cody's drilled chassis....
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