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Inferno MP9 thread

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Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 04-01-2011, 04:50 PM
  #5281  
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There aren't really any significant or outstanding benefits or advantages to running the captured universals as opposed to the normal universal drive-shafts. The main reason I changed to the captured ones is because they are rebuildable. They new ones are ever so slightly lighter than the older style unis (you can check my post from about 2 or 3 weeks ago where I listed the weights of brand-new uni driveshafts & also captured uni shafts. If you want to be really picky, the captured unis are a little smoother running at angles > about 15o. When the older unis are run at angles > 15 or so degrees, they can be heard & felt to be absorbing the torque/momentum & therefore they don't put this out to the wheel. By the very design of the captured unis, with the cross-pin having such a huge & long slot to pivot in, they start to bind at a much larger angle than standard cardan joint uni shafts do.

Having said all that, they are definitely not as long wearing as the older unis & the older ones will for sure be able to last longer especially if running in really dusty or dirty conditions. In the end it really comes down to personal preferance I reckon because both style have their advantages & disadvantages. I still run the older uni shafts on my rear wheels but have changed to the captured shafts everywhere else.

Last edited by aaron125; 04-04-2011 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 04:11 AM
  #5282  
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to all those with positive feed back, thank you. hope to be up and racing soon.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:22 AM
  #5283  
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Originally Posted by freefallmarine
If you have any question's please ask. There some step's that will have you scratching your head. Like step 4 mine didnt have the 2 4x10 screws in the bag.
Yeah I noticed the same thing. I just had to use two out of my stock. Did you end up with 2 4x10' left over. I am not completely done yet.
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:03 AM
  #5284  
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The 2- 4x10 screw's will appear when you install the front diff to the chassis. And there will be alot of left over nut's and bolt's.
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Old 04-02-2011, 01:04 PM
  #5285  
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Wow, MP9 thread is buzzing.. great to see

Originally Posted by aaron125
That's exactly the sort of info I was hoping to find out. Seems like the more I search & read up on ceramic bearings for RC, the more contradictory the answers. And none of them were from any creditable source, mainly just people's opinions but more theory than practice is what I reckon. No one whom I could implicitly trust that what they're saying is an actual tested outcome, not just some person's postulations. You saved me a bundle coz none of the ceramic bearings are inexpensive. Thank you Mr King.

While you're here, I've been curious about the following for a while but always forget to ask... On Cody's setup sheet from Kyosho Masters 2010, the front upper hinge-pins were installed in the high (roll centre?) position. The only other real change from Cody's norm was the 3o anti-squat. I've never seen any of the US drivers running the front upper hinge-pins high (obviously I don't have access to all of their setups but from the ones generally available on InfernosOnly, Kyosho.com, etc), only Kanai but he usually has a bit of a wierd setup anyway, so I never quite know what's going on with his setups.

Would I be correct in saying that the high upper hinge-pins would allow the car to roll more, giving more front grip on corner entry but perhaps a bit more on-power understeer? Or am I way off the mark? What was the reason for running that particular setup at that race?

And why is Pavidis the only driver who uses the shock foams consistently? The Losi guys say they are the best thing since sliced bread, making the rebound a lot more consistent over a long main. But if that's the case (Adam Drake certainly says as much) why wouldn't every driver from every brand be using some sort of foam in the bladder? From what I understand so far there doesn't seem to be many detrimental effects from running the foams yet very few (MP9 drivers) do.

That's enough for now. Cheers & thanks again for saving me some cash.
The H position in the front creates more body roll and side bite. I wouldn't take that too seriously, because in Japan the control tire was wishbone and it was a wet outdoor loamy track. We were doing everything to get traction we could think of. It is effective for indoors or when there isn't much traction. We use that setting at Revelation. If you change the front, you need to keep an eye on the rear and maybe raise that one hole as well, or at least try it out.

Never saw a reason to use the foams. Our diaphragms are so good we can reuse them over and over. Back in the day we used the foams because the diaphragms would break.

Originally Posted by scottk
Got my Mp9 finished and gave it a run, awsome car !!!
Some questions though for (Paul King) what sort of brake bias do you use generally ?
Car was fast, im running on a grippy but rutty track, i was running 25% rebound im guessing 0 will be better any other tips for that type of surface, soft impacts red foam work well for quals and medium for finals.
Any tips would be great.

cheers
Scott
Hi Scott. We run plenty of rear brake, and dial in the front brake so it won't lock up and come on a little later than the rear. This way Cody can get front brake when he jams it on, but still rear only if he feathers it into a corner.

Originally Posted by Zach Phillips
Pitpop,

How many 1.1 springs does Cody use on his clutch?

Also, between the blue and the silver clutch springs, I am guessing that the blue shoes are a softer aluminum?

Thanks.
Like some others have said, if he needs more rip, we add 1.1 springs one at a time. Blue is softer and more bite, but also wears faster.

Originally Posted by aaron125
Does anyone use grease or silicon or even a home-made paper gasket or something to help seal the diff case to the chassis? Or just screw it down as is?
You should use grease to seal the gear box. Dirt can get in.

Originally Posted by aaron125
What brand of diff oils do most people here run? Kyosho oil or some other brand?
Kyosho diff oil is generally considered the best I think. We only use Losi shock oil because Mark and Jared do. We're doing it so our set-ups can be compared. I like the Kyosho stuff personally.

Originally Posted by mdowney
Nothing?
As was said before, your question was really vague. I would say go out to the local nitro track?

Originally Posted by aaron125
I'm still really unsure about the shock towers - have heard from so many different places that they aren't ever going to be released coz they were made specifically for the Pattaya track & its hard as concrete surface & fences chewing up cars. Strange how Kyosho is taking so long & not giving out any release dates or even just some teaser pics to say "hey, look what you can buy soon".
The forward battery mount has been on the new items list since December, so I'm sure you know abut that. The front arms are running change. The front tower is still up in the air because of what you said above. We don't even run it unless it's a super high bite surface like cement. Unless you are at risk of breaking towers because of the surface you run on, it just adds weight, so I wouldn't worry about it. That tower was born out of the mentality that "to finish first you first must finish."
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:53 PM
  #5286  
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Great info. Thanks Paul.

Let me try to be a bit more specific. I've watched several engine tuning videos online so I'm not terribly worried about that at this point. I'm more interested in what Nitro-specific stuff I'll need to buy to have a race-ready car. I run a EURUS and RSx servos now (I'd want HD power for steering and speed for throttle?). Tires are straight-forward.

I need recommendations for engine, pipe, starter box, etc. All the stuff that we don't use in electric. Does the kit come with fuel tubing, spare filters, etc? I want to order everything at once so I don't get everything assembled and not be able to run it because I'm missing a $10 part.

Unfortunately due to the excessive rain up here we only have one outdoor nitro track and it doesn't open until summer so I can't just go ask questions at the track. I do business in the Bay Area twice per month so I intend to run mostly at NorCal. I'd give Eric a call but then I'd feel bad about not ordering from him (I have a relationship with Kyosho through an event we're doing together).

Thanks in advance for your help. Been impressed with everything I've read from Paul.
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:57 PM
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Just picked up my first kyosho its a mp9 wc and I see it comes with tapered pistons. How do these work compared to the standard pistons? What kind of track conditions would favor the tapered pistons?
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Old 04-04-2011, 12:02 AM
  #5288  
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Originally Posted by mdowney
Great info. Thanks Paul.

Let me try to be a bit more specific. I've watched several engine tuning videos online so I'm not terribly worried about that at this point. I'm more interested in what Nitro-specific stuff I'll need to buy to have a race-ready car. I run a EURUS and RSx servos now (I'd want HD power for steering and speed for throttle?). Tires are straight-forward.
Cody uses power for everything, it's plenty fast and the response version is just ridiculous

Originally Posted by mdowney
I need recommendations for engine, pipe, starter box, etc. All the stuff that we don't use in electric. Does the kit come with fuel tubing, spare filters, etc? I want to order everything at once so I don't get everything assembled and not be able to run it because I'm missing a $10 part.
Kit comes with fuel tubing. The spec A comes with oil in the shocks and diffs, pre-built. I think that's cool. I have to recommend the Team Orion WC edition engine and pipe

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=ORI80681

This is the box we use:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ter-Box-Pro-20

Originally Posted by mdowney
Unfortunately due to the excessive rain up here we only have one outdoor nitro track and it doesn't open until summer so I can't just go ask questions at the track. I do business in the Bay Area twice per month so I intend to run mostly at NorCal. I'd give Eric a call but then I'd feel bad about not ordering from him (I have a relationship with Kyosho through an event we're doing together).

Thanks in advance for your help. Been impressed with everything I've read from Paul.
Thanks!

Originally Posted by jwood7
Just picked up my first kyosho its a mp9 wc and I see it comes with tapered pistons. How do these work compared to the standard pistons? What kind of track conditions would favor the tapered pistons?
The tapered pistons provide more pack or high speed damping. It is better for high bite smooth surfaces with bigger jumps. Those pistons flat land really well. For high speed rutted or very rough conditions 1.3 x 8 straight hole pistons work best.
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Old 04-04-2011, 02:28 AM
  #5289  
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Awesome tips as usual, Paul. Appreciate the time!
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:35 AM
  #5290  
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Hey all. I own a Losi 8ight 2.0 buggy, and RC8B buggy, and both run very well and have their strong points. i run my Rc8b more than the other because i love the tune-ability compared to the Losi, as well as the unbelievable amount of steering both on power and off power. One of my teammates however has a brand new mp9, with a ton of new spare parts, and was interested in trading both of my rollers and spares for his new mp9. I am seriously thinking about doing this, but i wanted some more opinions on handling characteristics compared to ae and losi. what are the ups and downs of the mp9 if you will... thanks
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:56 AM
  #5291  
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Does it have all the new shorten shock towers in the rear. MAn is really hard to say without seeing it to me.


Another ? I'm running Orion plugs and need to know whats best plug for
my Orion 5 port. Or just tell me what the numbers mean again as far as
performance and fuel milage. I KNOW THIS NOT THE RIGHT THREAD BUT I A KYOSHO. COME ON NOW!!!
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:49 AM
  #5292  
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thanks paul you are the man
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:54 AM
  #5293  
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metalartcustoms is your mate's MP9 a Standard Edition, TKI2 or WC version? And is it brand new - as in still unbuilt parts in the box or has he put it together?

Coach, when in doubt I always reach for an OS P3 plug. Ye, I know I run OS engines but their plugs seem to work pretty well in most engines, at least as a decent starting point I find.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:07 AM
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It is the MP9 TKI. it is only assembled at this point, never even seen dirt or concrete.... this man has too many toys, lol.
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Old 04-04-2011, 11:20 AM
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Is it a TKI or TKI2? Don't mean to nitpick but there is a considerable difference between them.
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