infanterene

iTrader: (18)

My car came with narrow hubs for the back and normal for the front. I see that on most setup sheets call for normal all the way around.

Should I get some normal hubs for the back or are the not needed because I have the offset hubs? Will I pass tech with normal hubs in the rear and long tread?

Any special tips as far as maintaining the metal sheilded bearings? I normall wash with simple green and water but Im worried that water will mess up these bearings.

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

I reckon it all depends on how often the bearings are cleaned & /or lubed coz I strip the original manufacturer's oil or grease out of every bearing all over the car & soak them in turpentine for a few days (agitating a couple of times/day) to make sure all of the original lube is gone. Next I clean them of all the solvent by spraying brake cleaner or motor spray into the bearings using an RPM Bearing Blaster or just onto a rag if I'm being a bit lazy. Then I use ZX1 & perform a full heat-treatment on the bearings (heating up to around 100oC) & after that's been done the bearings are essentially rust-proof & lubricated for life. I always have a light coating of ZX1 oil on the bearings, never allowing them to run completely dry. Because of the heat-treatment & the way it creates a bonded layer on the bearing surfaces, there is absolutely no need for all of the grease that the bearings are packed with from the factory. And the difference is really obvious when spinning a diff or clutch bell by hand - with the original grease they spin & stop really quickly but after being heat-treated everything just keeps on spinning for ages.

They last ages too, I only replace mine when they start getting gritty & rough even after soaking in solvent. I usually have a tough time trying to pry off the metal shields so if the bearings are rough after soaking in solvent, that's when I replace them.

WINTER350

Hi Guys I received both of my TKI2 WC kits and started to assembled my nitro one first and found that the front shock stay does not have three of the holes 2 -4mm and 1-3mm hole on the front shock stay are not counter sunk. I check my second kit for my E car and the shock stay is the same way, am I missing something the manual says to use flat head screws??? Did anyone else notice this?

Thanks

afr0sch

iTrader: (95)

Probably supposed to be that way. Just put some button head 4mm screws in there. The countersink may have been identified as a weak spot in the tower.

freefallmarine

iTrader: (9)

There's an extra sheet of instruction that tells you to use 4mm button head screw's.

freefallmarine

iTrader: (9)

Oh, and when you mount the front bumper, its not going to fit flush because the bottom front plate is thicker. You will have to enlarge the holes towars the rear a little.

aaron125

iTrader: (16)

Quick question for you guys with the WC kits - what is the part number for the new WC version of the front hinge-pin holder (IF439B)? Thanks

WINTER350

Cools thanks. I did look for an additional sheet but must of over looked it.

Thanks

freefallmarine

iTrader: (9)

If you have any question's please ask. There some step's that will have you scratching your head. Like step 4 mine didnt have the 2 4x10 screws in the bag.

freefallmarine

iTrader: (9)

You gonna be at Indy for RC Pro this weekend?

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

Nothing?

afr0sch

iTrader: (95)

Of course! Open Nitro and E-buggy.

freefallmarine

iTrader: (9)

Sweet, Ill come up and say hi. Ill look for your paint scheme.

mdowney

iTrader: (21)

Great tips. Thanks. What is ZX1 oil and where do you get it?

eper

iTrader: (14)

you guys all seemk pretty willing to help each other out with your wc cars but i ask for a couple tips on the se and get completely ignored? way to help people into the nitro side of of the hobby. spoiled bitches