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Inferno MP9 thread

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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-18-2011, 07:20 AM
  #5116  
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When running the tubes on the cvd's there is NO WAY that the pin will com out with a set screw eventually the screw will loosen up and the pin will make its way out that's why it's better to run the tube on the cvd's
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:23 AM
  #5117  
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Originally Posted by J.Whiting
please keep on topic.. all none related rc things please use the chat forums.. posts have been deleted only due to not being on topic... thank you
You had no reason delete Paul's post!There is such a subject you sould be more understanding!By posting a few link about helping victims doesn't hijack the topic!
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
You had no reason delete Paul's post!There is such a subject you sould be more understanding!By posting a few link about helping victims doesn't hijack the topic!
gabor, there were a few others posts regarding this subject wich were less helpfull, the opposite really. They are deleted (including remarks about the stupid post) and I think to be on the safe side the moderators deleted paul post too.

Back to our toy cars again! I love the tubes on the cvd's. Other brands with the setscrews have to modify them to keep in place, this solution is very nice!
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:55 AM
  #5119  
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I've been working on getting my Spec A ready for the track this weekend. Went thru it and put in the Kyosho Titanium Screw kit, added the forward battery mount, rebuilt the shocks with the 1.3x8 white pistons. All I can say is wow. The craftsmanship on this car is amazing. Everything has such an excellent fit/finish to it, right down to the brake linkage. I came from another brand that was ok in quality, but the kcar is a step above-a big step (I don't want to mention my last car's manufacturer but its initials are Mugen Seiki lol). I almost don't want to put it on the track and get it dirty...lol. If this thing handles anything close to how it looks/feels, which I'm sure it will, I'll be stoked. I'll post some pics up of it before I get her all dirty lol.

As for the CVDs, I personally prefer the swing shafts, they were part of what I loved about the kcar design. I realize I haven't had any maintenance time or track time with them, and they do have their drawbacks (not rebuildable) but they seem like they'll require much less overall maintenance than CVDs. I hated the CVDs on my other car-they were dirt magnets. Plus, I believe the swing shafts have less overall friction in them due to the relatively small contact points in the assembly compared to the CVDs. Just my two cents.
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:59 AM
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I knew I could rely on all you guys (collective) wisdom. I have never had either the screw or cross-shaft ever come out but obviously you all have a lot more experience & way more driving time than me. I must admit I did get the red tube for the rear centre shaft just coz it looks cool having that shiny red thing down there.
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron125
I knew I could rely on all you guys (collective) wisdom. I have never had either the screw or cross-shaft ever come out but obviously you all have a lot more experience & way more driving time than me. I must admit I did get the red tube for the rear centre shaft just coz it looks cool having that shiny red thing down there.
Bling factor is never a bad thing
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:29 AM
  #5122  
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me
I'll post some pics up of it before I get her all dirty lol.

As for the CVDs, I personally prefer the swing shafts, they were part of what I loved about the kcar design. I realize I haven't had any maintenance time or track time with them, and they do have their drawbacks (not rebuildable) but they seem like they'll require much less overall maintenance than CVDs. I hated the CVDs on my other car-they were dirt magnets. Plus, I believe the swing shafts have less overall friction in them due to the relatively small contact points in the assembly compared to the CVDs. Just my two cents.
Ye I noticed that too, I reckon the normal unis are more efficient coz I noticed initially that the captured unis were a bit noisy & definitly louder than the other style. I did a full heat treatment using ZX1 fluid, on all parts of the captured unis & that certainly made them heaps more quiet but still noticeably louder than some brand-new (but also heat treated with ZX1) standard unis - I still use them for rear wheels. I would say that up until the angle where the standard unis start to bind & absorb torque (perhaps about 15-25o) they are more free spinning than the captured type.

After using the ZX1 treatment on other unis I've never had problems with dirt build-up because after doing the heat treatment the parts are run dry with no lube & because of the ZX1, hardly any wear at all. Dunno if it's just the way they look, all chunky & stuff but I've always thought the Kyosho unis were stronger than CVD style shafts (there's nothing constant about them at all but dunno what else to call them).
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Old 03-18-2011, 01:25 PM
  #5123  
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Originally Posted by J.Whiting
please keep on topic.. all none related rc things please use the chat forums.. posts have been deleted only due to not being on topic... thank you
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! that is the most ridiculous thing I've ever seen, as well as one of the most heinous... deleting links to Japan donations?! Why don't you go outside and punch some babies too. unreal
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:38 PM
  #5124  
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Originally Posted by pitpop
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! that is the most ridiculous thing I've ever seen, as well as one of the most heinous... deleting links to Japan donations?! Why don't you go outside and punch some babies too. unreal
+1 heartless
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:41 PM
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That could have been handled a little differently. I get it is off topic but there are a million other ways to handle that.

Nice let's blackball the main "wrench" in the US.

Talk about looking donkey.
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Old 03-18-2011, 04:35 PM
  #5126  
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S-Grid??
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Old 03-18-2011, 04:45 PM
  #5127  
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Originally Posted by pitpop
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! that is the most ridiculous thing I've ever seen, as well as one of the most heinous... deleting links to Japan donations?! Why don't you go outside and punch some babies too. unreal
Yea really!!! Go pound sand will ya!!! Anyways, Paul how much rebound are you guys running on the shocks for rough track???
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:35 PM
  #5128  
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Got word today that my WC edition will be here around the first of April. Wonder how diffrent this buggy will be from my 777sp2? hahahaha
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:53 PM
  #5129  
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hi, what spring is stiffer, for the front: yellow or purple its for a very bumpy, tight track
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:55 AM
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The yellow (light green on the header card) are stronger than the purple springs, but the blue springs are the strongest. The part number indicates the spring strength. The yellow spring is IF350-816, which means its a short front spring, with 8 coils of 1.6mm spring wire. The Purple spring is IF350-916, which is 9 coils of 1.6mm wire. The blue spring is IF350-716, which only has 7 coils of the same wire. Fewer coils equals a stronger spring.
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