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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-01-2011, 04:51 AM
  #4936  
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Can someone tell me if i can use mbx6 big bore shocks on my ST-R?
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:37 PM
  #4937  
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Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
U can find lots a stuff here: www.infernosonly.com just click on setup sheets on the top...
thanks for the help
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:45 AM
  #4938  
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Originally Posted by RickyBBad
Can someone tell me if i can use mbx6 big bore shocks on my ST-R?
In theory any shock should fit onto any vehicle regardless of brand, size/scale, car, truck, etc as long as there are no physical barriers there is no reason why a shock from one brand couldn't be installed & used on a vehicle from another brand. If it's too short or the replacement shock will touch some part of the suspension arms or chassis or anti-roll bars or something, then you might have a few problems. If the shock eyelets are way too big & it's not possible to retro-fit the corresponding bushings onto your ST-R then of course there's no easy way you could mount them.

The real question is why? The Kyosho big bore shocks are excellent shocks, why not use them? Coz if you went with Mugen or any other brand, how you gonna know what springs, oils, pistons & whatever else you should use or even where you would start? Obviously you couldn't use Kyosho settings in Mugen shocks & of course the MBX6 settings would presumably be worthless if its shocks were fitted to a Kyosho truck?
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:46 AM
  #4939  
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if i convert the ST-R to The ST-RR with all Kyosho parts it will cost me about $400. Way to much considering thats just about the cost of a New Truggy. And most likely Kyosho is going to drop a new Truggy based of the Worlds car. Im just trying to make due until a all new Truggy comes out. Thanks for the input.
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Old 03-02-2011, 03:21 AM
  #4940  
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I was only referring to getting the Kyosho shocks as opposed to the Mugen (or any other brand) parts. With all the headaches involved with the setup & trying to figure out which springs, pistons & oils to run as there won't be anyone who's setup you could use as a starting point or who would likely have any first-hand experience with those shocks on that car. Kyosho version wouldn't be anywhere near that much (from ebay, not sure about retail prices) just for shocks though

Have you seen any pics or read anything about an MP9 truck coming out? I've heard rumours but nothing solid.
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Old 03-02-2011, 03:37 AM
  #4941  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Werner
Does the Kyosho Produced front battery mount fit/work on the St-rr?

Thanks
Jeff
I'd say almost 100% not possible & definitely not going to be too easy or straightforward. Just remebered that the truck/all the 777 cars have the steering tie-rod going on the outside of the servo & radio tray, right where the forward battery mount would be attached.

But the DIY version will work & it's a whole lot cheaper too.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:27 AM
  #4942  
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Anybody know Tebo's or Cody's setup from the Nitro Pit???
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Old 03-02-2011, 11:08 AM
  #4943  
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I think Tebo pretty much used his nationals set-up
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:34 PM
  #4944  
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Originally Posted by ON A MISSION
I think Tebo pretty much used his nationals set-up
+1 I think so too!!According to te pics what i saw (front shock position etc) look to me that is his national setup....Or atlist similar...
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Old 03-02-2011, 12:51 PM
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Do youy guys recomend the King Headz Kyosho MP9 Front Upper Arms (2)
[KHZ-MP9-012]???
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:33 PM
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I dont think so the new arms are good, unless you like to tumble down the straight's
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bad ass
Do youy guys recomend the King Headz Kyosho MP9 Front Upper Arms (2)
[KHZ-MP9-012]???
Just think about it:If u crash, something gotta go....if your upper arm is not gonna brake(because is alu) your upper arm holder brace or the bulkhead gonna brake ...just saying...
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:54 AM
  #4948  
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I was wondering if somebody can make a list of upgrades that you may need.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:12 AM
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I would get the aluminum upper arm mount, rear cnc arm mount, Long king pin kit for the front hub and Cnc wing posts.
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Old 03-03-2011, 07:19 AM
  #4950  
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Upgrades from what?

There really aren't any. If you get a team kit it isn't like a Losi/Associated where you have to buy the adj hinge pin kit, alum hubs and steering knuckles just to name a few as it all comes on the team kit.

But truthfully take it out of the box in run.

The following were issues when the MP-9 first arrived but were all corrected long ago.
  1. Front upper arms - too week where hinge pin was and would pull out. They added more material fine now (don't go alum. as the other post said something else would be under stress).
  2. Rear hubs - same thing not enough material on the backside of the hub where the scrapers mount.
  3. Diff Block - On the rear block the front bearing would get hot and then cause the pinion gear to move and munch the rear diff. Same story not enough material. This and the hub were fixed long before most even had the car.

Those were really the only weak things on the car and they've all been addressed. All of which have been addressed in any kit you purchase.

If you get a standard kit you don't need the alum. rear hubs. For some odd reason I don't like them on the car and went back to plastic. Also if you get an SE kit you don't need the threaded big bores. Some like them I personally like the clips. I know it is dead accurate. I pretty much never change these unless I'm rebuilding the shocks and that will never happen 20 sec. before my heat.

there you have it hope it helps.
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