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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-04-2011, 08:12 AM
  #4381  
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Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
Does anybody knows the part# of the Mp9 universal shaft joint pin?And where can i find it?Tryed the Mugen one but its too big ( 3mm).Thanks!
Must be a way to find those pins..or i would be the only one who would ever change them?Any opinion or help?Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:17 AM
  #4382  
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Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
Must be a way to find those pins..or i would be the only one who would ever change them?Any opinion or help?Thanks!
really, just forget it, ever since I started racing Kyosho cars I never found those pins or anybody on a forum that had a solution. Besides, if they are getting to old, the complete unit is ready for replacement!
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:49 AM
  #4383  
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Just buy the New Shafts IFW-420
Then you can replace only the bone, its IFW-420-01

Thammi
Attached Thumbnails Inferno MP9 thread-330e5de9cb746b190a8ecd4fb8ca672d.jpg  
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:57 AM
  #4384  
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OK!I give up!Will replace the whole thing...Thank you guys!
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:22 PM
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My kit came with one of these, but I did not see the instructions to install it during the build. Can someone explain what this is for?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nforcing-Block
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:55 PM
  #4386  
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Originally Posted by jsmax
My kit came with one of these, but I did not see the instructions to install it during the build. Can someone explain what this is for?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nforcing-Block
That was used on the front of the rear bulkheads. The older bulkheads were a little soft so "reckward" came out with those, bulkhead stiffeners. If you have the updated "c" bulkheads(which you probably have, since then they have been updated in the newer kits) you will be fine, that part is not needed......I do not think that part will be even fit over the pinion part on the bulkhead, it has been bulked up a lot.


Walid

Last edited by walidelagamy; 01-05-2011 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:13 PM
  #4387  
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Originally Posted by jsmax
My kit came with one of these, but I did not see the instructions to install it during the build. Can someone explain what this is for?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...nforcing-Block
Like Walid said, it goes on the rear bulkhead where the center driveshaft goes in, and was designed to reinforce the older bulkheads. If you have the new (c) bulkhead, this thing will not fit, and it's not needed.
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:09 AM
  #4388  
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The 93mm driveshafts are intended to be used with 3 degrees of toe in. If you run less toe, or negative camber, they might be bottoming out in the out drives. This will make them break.
Hi pitpop: Reference to your feedback above, does Cody changes the rear U/J from 93 to 91 depending on set up?

Secondly, i am a little confuse when you mentioned running negative camber, will also be part of the breaking factor! Isn't it a norm to run negative camber at all time?

Please advice.......thanks!

Regards,
David Lim
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:56 PM
  #4389  
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Originally Posted by David Lim
Hi pitpop: Reference to your feedback above, does Cody changes the rear U/J from 93 to 91 depending on set up?

Secondly, i am a little confuse when you mentioned running negative camber, will also be part of the breaking factor! Isn't it a norm to run negative camber at all time?

Please advice.......thanks!

Regards,
David Lim
Hi David. Yes, if we run less than 3 degrees of toe in, we change the drive shafts. You should be able to run some negative camber, but it's one of the ways you might put the driveshafts at risk so do your duty as a hobbyist and check the clearance. There are plenty of ways to bottom out the 93mm shafts; short arm with old hubs, less toe in, inordinate negative camber (like more than 2 degrees). Any combination of those things can do it.

For example, you might run 2.5* toe, and run -4* camber, it might bottom out. You just have to check it, that's why there are two different length shafts.
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:48 PM
  #4390  
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Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
Must be a way to find those pins..or i would be the only one who would ever change them?Any opinion or help?Thanks!
2.89mm blank drill bits and cut as many as you want Gabe.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pitpop
Hi David. Yes, if we run less than 3 degrees of toe in, we change the drive shafts. You should be able to run some negative camber, but it's one of the ways you might put the driveshafts at risk so do your duty as a hobbyist and check the clearance. There are plenty of ways to bottom out the 93mm shafts; short arm with old hubs, less toe in, inordinate negative camber (like more than 2 degrees). Any combination of those things can do it.

For example, you might run 2.5* toe, and run -4* camber, it might bottom out. You just have to check it, that's why there are two different length shafts.
Just clarifying, you run the 91mm shafts with the offset hubs when running less than 3 degrees of toe?
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Old 01-06-2011, 01:21 AM
  #4392  
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Originally Posted by mtbkym01
Just clarifying, you run the 91mm shafts with the offset hubs when running less than 3 degrees of toe?
Considering you are supposed to run the arms short with the 2mm offset hub, yes. If you run the 2mm offset with long arm, you can run the 93mm shaft with 3* of toe. Does that make sense? I know it's confusing, but the best thing to do is set-up the car and check it. If it's bottoming out in the out drive, change it.
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by pitpop
Considering you are supposed to run the arms short with the 2mm offset hub, yes. If you run the 2mm offset with long arm, you can run the 93mm shaft with 3* of toe. Does that make sense? I know it's confusing, but the best thing to do is set-up the car and check it. If it's bottoming out in the out drive, change it.
Cheers
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:29 AM
  #4394  
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Can't believe all these new buggies coming after the MP9. Agama, JQ, and Team Durango. The offset throttle / brake linkage must be the new old thing.
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:36 AM
  #4395  
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Originally Posted by tntracer05
Can't believe all these new buggies coming after the MP9. Agama, JQ, and Team Durango. The offset throttle / brake linkage must be the new old thing.
could be, but it still is the fastest new old thing on the track when it counts!
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