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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-02-2011, 05:33 AM
  #4351  
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Default Carbon Front Battery ?

Hi Guys
A friend of mine prepared some 3mm front battery from carbon.
Looks very similar to what Tebo and Coby used.
Kyosho isn't selling them yet, so he thinks aabout seling some.

The price will be around 25$ (before shipping, but it will be cheap, in an envelope).
Its not as clean as they have, there are some scratchs, but it works the same.

Do you think that someone will want to buy it?

P.S
Someone asked about the lower holes (hub) in the rear turnbuckle arm, what will it do?

Thanks

Guy
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:16 AM
  #4352  
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
I recently switched from 1 1/2 years of racing an MBX6, I've practiced with the MP9 twice for about almost 3/4 of a gallon. The main difference is how planted the car feels. The track wet or dry it almost felt the same.. very planted, it feels a little heavier but I think that's why it feels planted. It doesn't have the aggressive oversteering like the mugen, it feels calm and precise. It jumps very well like a deer like some one earlier described.

What I did noticed and this may just be me but I noticed that it crashes a little more violent, this may sound weird but when it crashed it felt like it spun and spun forever maybe due to the weight or maybe since it was my new toy it felt like for ever either way the car feels better than the mugen for my driving style.

Holds a line on and off power very good. When the rear breaks loose it corrects it self calm and controllable not aggressive like the mugen.

I did buy the MP9SE but after investing in some hop ups I should have bought the tki2.
Alex that was my suggestion in the first place,but hey you can always get some used but upgraded mp9.I saw one in rcfile.

Last edited by jma; 01-02-2011 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:36 AM
  #4353  
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
I recently switched from 1 1/2 years of racing an MBX6, I've practiced with the MP9 twice for about almost 3/4 of a gallon. The main difference is how planted the car feels. The track wet or dry it almost felt the same.. very planted, it feels a little heavier but I think that's why it feels planted. It doesn't have the aggressive oversteering like the mugen, it feels calm and precise. It jumps very well like a deer like some one earlier described.

What I did noticed and this may just be me but I noticed that it crashes a little more violent, this may sound weird but when it crashed it felt like it spun and spun forever maybe due to the weight or maybe since it was my new toy it felt like for ever either way the car feels better than the mugen for my driving style.

Holds a line on and off power very good. When the rear breaks loose it corrects it self calm and controllable not aggressive like the mugen.

I did buy the MP9SE but after investing in some hop ups I should have bought the tki2.
See I told you to get the tki2
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:07 PM
  #4354  
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What is the difference between the TKI and TKI2? Can the TKI be converted to the TKI2? Thanks
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:24 AM
  #4355  
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Does anybody knows the part# of the Mp9 universal shaft joint pin?And where can i find it?Tryed the Mugen one but its too big ( 3mm).Thanks!
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:14 AM
  #4356  
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Originally Posted by major3d
What is the difference between the TKI and TKI2? Can the TKI be converted to the TKI2? Thanks
http://www.kyosho.com/eng/fun/specia...al_data02.html

Originally Posted by gabor szilagyi
Does anybody knows the part# of the Mp9 universal shaft joint pin?And where can i find it?Tryed the Mugen one but its too big ( 3mm).Thanks!
I believe there is none.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:33 AM
  #4357  
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
It doesn't have the aggressive oversteering like the mugen, it feels calm and precise. It jumps very well like a deer like some one earlier described.
Sorry mate, but I guess that's your setup. I can drive my mugen very hard on the power on a low traction surface. You can get a lot of steer out of the mbx6, but you can also make it push on entry. I guess you can do the same thing with the mp9.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:35 AM
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That is what i thought !But i wondering why they don't have!?I am deff not going to buy a whole shaft because of the pin....I know there was a discussion about it earlyer, but i can't find it...I could drill the hole to make the mugen pin fit but ,i wait if someone has a better idea!
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:39 AM
  #4359  
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ebay the shafts are 25 for front and rear
if you look at tthe rest of the universal by the time the pin wears seems the ujoint is worn out anyway if you switch to the cvds then you can just by new shaft for 12 bucks when the pin wheres out because the cvd side has multiple hoes so can go through think 3 shafts and barrells
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:52 AM
  #4360  
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Originally Posted by jewn_beef
ebay the shafts are 25 for front and rear
if you look at tthe rest of the universal by the time the pin wears seems the ujoint is worn out anyway if you switch to the cvds then you can just by new shaft for 12 bucks when the pin wheres out because the cvd side has multiple hoes so can go through think 3 shafts and barrells
I got some wear on the center universals but still good for a while .There is almost non wear on the front and rear just only on the pin.I would like to keep the universal over the cvd because they may be more expensive but they last longer.Thank u for your respond!
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:01 AM
  #4361  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Sorry mate, but I guess that's your setup. I can drive my mugen very hard on the power on a low traction surface. You can get a lot of steer out of the mbx6, but you can also make it push on entry. I guess you can do the same thing with the mp9.
Sorry mate, but I just read where you can't setup your mugen to steer correctly and you come on here and post on my comment?......lol
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:37 AM
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well ran my car agian yesterdaqy had local some % kyosho driver tell me to move my rear link to inner lower hole from outer lower hole and made the car rotate much better without getting loose chipped another spur gear tooth off that is second one now first one dont know why it happened this one my motor mount screw dropped out on one side so i am going to put the longer screws in with nuts on top although that makes for a little more work when pulling motor to do clutch maint.
car is still the best handling car to date for my style which is very aggressive
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by arm2storm
Sorry mate, but I just read where you can't setup your mugen to steer correctly and you come on here and post on my comment?......lol
Mine was actually understeering instead of oversteering. I race on astroturf. Had only 1 race on dirt. Any the fact that mine was understeering and yours was oversteering is a setup related issue. It's not the car.

And yes I was looking for best stable setup with a long wheelbase for blown out tracks but still enough steering. Getting more steer is not that, but still have a stable car on bumps/ruts that is still turning on a dime is harder for me.
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:45 AM
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inner hole of the tower or hubs. The chipped spur gear is due the the screw falling out and the motor moving for 1. 2 make sure its not too tight on the pinion gear.

You have a good idea by installinga longer screw and putting a nut on it.

ALUMIUM ONE!!!
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:09 AM
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Last edited by arm2storm; 01-03-2011 at 10:43 AM.
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