Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Inferno MP9 thread >

Inferno MP9 thread

Like Tree1Likes

Inferno MP9 thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Inferno MP9 thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

Print Wikipost

Old 04-12-2015, 12:53 PM
  #18781  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 13
Default

Hello,which is the more similar to 40-30 losi oil in kyosho oil?

because I find many diferent values.

Maybe 550-400? Its for a 1.3x8 whith blue front and orange rear springs.

Many thanks.
Rasca is offline  
Old 04-12-2015, 11:21 PM
  #18782  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Shamong, N.J.
Posts: 529
Default

Originally Posted by Rasca
Hello,which is the more similar to 40-30 losi oil in kyosho oil?

because I find many diferent values.

Maybe 550-400? Its for a 1.3x8 whith blue front and orange rear springs.

Many thanks.
Not sure I'm sure someone knows where to find a conversion chart. I personally use losi oils. It doesn't matter what brand oils you use. To me the most important thing is to use whatever is brand locally available. You don't want to have to mail order your consumables. I buy as much as I can to support my last and track. Unfortunately my last doesn't carry Kyosho so I do buy it elsewhere. But all my consumables I buy there.
purple rides is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 12:39 AM
  #18783  
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,215
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rasca
Hello,which is the more similar to 40-30 losi oil in kyosho oil?

because I find many diferent values.

Maybe 550-400? Its for a 1.3x8 whith blue front and orange rear springs.

Many thanks.
I use Mugen oils, which along with Kyosho are some of the most accurately labeled oils on the market in terms of the Cst rating on the label being close to or the actual viscosity of the oil, measured in Cst. Not only that but both brands are some of the most linear oils available whereby a doubling of the number on the label actually equates to double the original viscosity.

This is definitely not the case with Losi oils in particular. E.g. TLR60 oil has far more than double the viscosity of TLR30 but if you start with TLR15, then TLR30 is double the viscosity. Then again, going from TLR20-TLR40 is again not double the viscosity, but might perhaps be about 1.5 times as viscous. This is obviously extremely non-linear.

All of that means nothing if one is use to their own brand of oil as you come to aquire a feel for how much to increase or decrease a shock's oil depending on desired outcome such that if you know you need to raise or lower your oil by TLR2.5, say, then that's all you need to do. Only thing is it will take quite some time to get used to this non-linearity.

Having said all that, I use Mugen as I got an incredible deal on a heap of their oils all bnip when a shop was closing down. So, essentially TLR27.5 is about 250-300Cst and TLR45 is about 550-600Cst. Those are the numbers I use Kyosho/Mugen oils.

I've got an actual conversion graph of the measured viscosities of TLR oils compared to what is written on the TlR labels. Good point to remember is that TLR never said that the numbers on label of their shock oils are a unit of measured viscosity. It's simply their nominal, proprietary rate for oil thickness/viscosity.

I'll try to dig out the actual conversion graph for you once I get home.
aaron125 is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 12:52 AM
  #18784  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,876
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

If I made oil, I would make sure it was linear and accurately conformed to a unit of measurement scale. It would be a matter of pride and with the intention of being a reputable manufacturer. Just like I would do with screws as do they. I wouldn't call a particular screw some random number. It would be an actual unit of measurement. A 3x10mm screw would measure that exactly. And if I made a 3x20mm screw it would be twice as long. WTH? How hard is that?
My ST-RR EVO is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 07:54 AM
  #18785  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Winner's Circle's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Atlanta, Georgia USA
Posts: 1,196
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by purple rides
Not sure I'm sure someone knows where to find a conversion chart. I personally use losi oils. It doesn't matter what brand oils you use. To me the most important thing is to use whatever is brand locally available. You don't want to have to mail order your consumables. I buy as much as I can to support my last and track. Unfortunately my last doesn't carry Kyosho so I do buy it elsewhere. But all my consumables I buy there.
Here is a link to the website I use for shock oil conversion.

http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/...wt_convert.php

Lee
Winner's Circle is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 09:28 AM
  #18786  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dumper's Speed Shop
Posts: 1,058
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Anyone else having problems with the fitment of the steering block into the c-hub? Mine is not even close to being right. I want to make sure I am not missing something before I start grinding.....
dumper is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 09:41 AM
  #18787  
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
 
Winner's Circle's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Atlanta, Georgia USA
Posts: 1,196
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dumper
Anyone else having problems with the fitment of the steering block into the c-hub? Mine is not even close to being right. I want to make sure I am not missing something before I start grinding.....
There is a right and a left so make sure you are installing the correct one on the correct side. I have not had any fitment problems with this in the past.

Lee
Winner's Circle is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 11:32 AM
  #18788  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dumper's Speed Shop
Posts: 1,058
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I have the left and right correct. The aluminum steering block does not fit with the c hub bushings installed. There is over 1mm difference between the gap between the c hub bushings and the height of the aluminum steering block.
dumper is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 11:38 AM
  #18789  
SEF
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
 
SEF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: LA
Posts: 2,151
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dumper
I have the left and right correct. The aluminum steering block does not fit with the c hub bushings installed. There is over 1mm difference between the gap between the c hub bushings and the height of the aluminum steering block.
There are two different bushings to use. A shorter one on top and the longer one on the bottom. Install the bushings such that the flange of the bushings are towards the inside. I think you might have the bushings installed incorrectly.
SEF is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 11:46 AM
  #18790  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dumper's Speed Shop
Posts: 1,058
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by SEF
There are two different bushings to use. A shorter one on top and the longer one on the bottom. Install the bushings such that the flange of the bushings are towards the inside. I think you might have the bushings installed incorrectly.
Flanges are to the inside.......I have the manual right in front of me. I can wedge the steering block in there but when the screws are tightened, it is bound up solid.
dumper is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 11:47 AM
  #18791  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
 
tobamiester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tea drinking Limmey in NJ
Posts: 12,379
Trader Rating: 360 (100%+)
Default

Had my first race with the M2C Split diff mount. Very happy. I actually chipped a tooth off the center diff so had a reason to swap it out...Nice upgrade
tobamiester is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 08:05 PM
  #18792  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Shamong, N.J.
Posts: 529
Default

Originally Posted by aaron125
I use Mugen oils, which along with Kyosho are some of the most accurately labeled oils on the market in terms of the Cst rating on the label being close to or the actual viscosity of the oil, measured in Cst. Not only that but both brands are some of the most linear oils available whereby a doubling of the number on the label actually equates to double the original viscosity.

This is definitely not the case with Losi oils in particular. E.g. TLR60 oil has far more than double the viscosity of TLR30 but if you start with TLR15, then TLR30 is double the viscosity. Then again, going from TLR20-TLR40 is again not double the viscosity, but might perhaps be about 1.5 times as viscous. This is obviously extremely non-linear.

All of that means nothing if one is use to their own brand of oil as you come to aquire a feel for how much to increase or decrease a shock's oil depending on desired outcome such that if you know you need to raise or lower your oil by TLR2.5, say, then that's all you need to do. Only thing is it will take quite some time to get used to this non-linearity.

Having said all that, I use Mugen as I got an incredible deal on a heap of their oils all bnip when a shop was closing down. So, essentially TLR27.5 is about 250-300Cst and TLR45 is about 550-600Cst. Those are the numbers I use Kyosho/Mugen oils.

I've got an actual conversion graph of the measured viscosities of TLR oils compared to what is written on the TlR labels. Good point to remember is that TLR never said that the numbers on label of their shock oils are a unit of measured viscosity. It's simply their nominal, proprietary rate for oil thickness/viscosity.

I'll try to dig out the actual conversion graph for you once I get home.
All good points it would be nice if all manufacturers used the same and accurate system

My point is losi or ae or other brand is quality oil whether you like there numbering system or not. Your only using a range of oils. For example if you normally use losi 45wt oil In the front shocks. For a particular track you may go a little thinner or thicker. Your not gonna need 80wt . As long as you can fine tune it is the important thing. And most important is you can get it at your LHS. If your at the track and you need a set up change or your ran out of that oil you want to be able to run up to the shop and get it. If they carry Kyosho oil or whatever great , but it's STUPID to use a brand that you don't have a consistent supply of or other people in the pits can't help you with.
purple rides is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 08:09 PM
  #18793  
Tech Regular
 
banana rt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 399
Default

Originally Posted by tobamiester
Had my first race with the M2C Split diff mount. Very happy. I actually chipped a tooth off the center diff so had a reason to swap it out...Nice upgrade
chipped mine too on sunday regional race, whereas the teeth still in good shape.
banana rt is offline  
Old 04-13-2015, 08:20 PM
  #18794  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (102)
 
1/8 IC Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 6,508
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dumper
Flanges are to the inside.......I have the manual right in front of me. I can wedge the steering block in there but when the screws are tightened, it is bound up solid.
Post some pictures of it assembled and layed out as you would assemble. The screws should bottom out on the Bushings and nothing else.
1/8 IC Fan is offline  
Old 04-14-2015, 04:52 PM
  #18795  
Tech Adept
 
occidio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Denmark
Posts: 126
Default

My front 93mm cvds is worn out. but the ones I have in reserve is only 91mm. is risky to drive with them when I run the car wide?

I'm new with KYOSHO, so my knowledge is low and the next stop is a national race..
occidio is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.