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Old 10-10-2016, 02:30 PM   -   Wikipost
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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-05-2015, 06:11 PM
  #18601  
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So anyone try a slotted rotor up front with the stock carbon rear?
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Old 03-05-2015, 09:41 PM
  #18602  
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Originally Posted by WYLDTHING

Whenever my buggy is crossing up under heavy braking, I always just take out some rear brake so the rear tires don't lock up, and the problem goes away. Because if the tires stay turning, they will always track better than if they are completely stopped.
makes sense. There is no way to dial out some rear brake on eTruggy. However assuming eTruggy or any eBuggy that uses the motor for braking had 50 / 50 brakes. I've heard several people say they like running 30% f / 70% r brake bias and with that bias aren't having problems do you'd think 50/50 on my truggy would be a non issue. ...a little off topic.
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:16 PM
  #18603  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
I've heard several people say they like running 30% f / 70% r brake bias and with that bias aren't having problems
if you run like that is because you WANT to have the rear of the car slide, probably to easily make 180 turns
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Old 03-06-2015, 06:10 AM
  #18604  
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Originally Posted by AllyITA
if you run like that is because you WANT to have the rear of the car slide, probably to easily make 180 turns
The best way to get the car to over steer ( when the rear of the car slides into a corner) Is to use the throttle. Brakes should only be used to slow the car into the corner. Once your into the turn that's when you should start to apply the throttle which will bring the rear end out. This is the fastest way to get through a turn. In my opinion you need more bias up front because when the brakes are applied weight is transferred to the front and that's where you have more traction which in turn will slow the car down more efficiently. Just my 2 cents

Last edited by max92804; 03-06-2015 at 06:20 AM.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:58 AM
  #18605  
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Originally Posted by houston
who needs brakes anyway ?

besides "THE JQ" anyway
Hahaha! ur rite who needs brakes! The only reason I run brakes is for car correction in the air! To be honest, I really dont want to run brakes but how else can I really control the car in the air ya know? kinda sux but....
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:57 AM
  #18606  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Think your on to something. Recently looking at brake upgrades for my road car, almost all of them have oversized front brakes and tiny rears rotors/callipers. Never really noticed until I was in the market to buy upgrades hehe.
There's a very good reason for that; the front brakes do up to about 70% of total braking force on asphalt in a car, or up to 100% on a bike, when the rear wheel is just dancing in the air, skipping along the ground. It's somewhat less on dirt but even for cars it's about 60%ish.

On a different topic, I agree that getting on the throttle as soon as one enters a corner is definitely the fastest way around a track. Look at how WRC rally drivers technique allows them to be on the gas as soon as they've entered a turn. The overriding principle is 'slow in, fast out' which means to slow as much as is needed such that one can get on the gas within about the first quarter of the way through the turn or even better, as soon as one is in a turn. Look at any form of motorsport where traction is at a premium and this is always the fastest way around. The drivers and riders aren't trying to get the highest corner speed because they don't have the traction to do so, therefore slow in fast out is always faster.

When I say "traction is at a premium" I'm referring to most everything other than say, F1 or similar where they have such huge aero that even if they wanted to, drifting or being on the extreme edge of traction through a corner isn't so quick because the vehicle is controlled so much by the aero that they can attain and search for high corner speed. This is similar in the old 125cc and 250cc GP bikes in that they couldn't overpower the rear traction so they had to keep the highest corner speed possible. But for us, where we have so little grip on the driving surface, same as rally or motocross or (to an extent) MotoGP bikes, the fastest guys are all using the same or very similar technique which is slow in fast out.

Just my $0.02 but so many World Champions agree and have written books on driving/riding technique (of which I've read several and used to race motocross myself) so there must be something to it.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:35 PM
  #18607  
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Prototype front shocks and tower look interesting, looks to be right in between the stock equipment and running the rear shocks up front with the tall tower (Which ive always wanted to try)
Shock angle is more vertical. Black collar is different too.
Attached Thumbnails Inferno MP9 thread-fb_img_1425677788152.jpg   Inferno MP9 thread-fb_img_1425677791083.jpg  
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:44 PM
  #18608  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
Prototype front shocks and tower look interesting, looks to be right in between the stock equipment and running the rear shocks up front with the tall tower (Which ive always wanted to try)
Shock angle is more vertical. Black collar is different too.
Same as EU tower setup
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:52 PM
  #18609  
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But no where as ugly lol
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:54 PM
  #18610  
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Originally Posted by houston
Same as EU tower setup
Different shock length.
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Old 03-06-2015, 02:02 PM
  #18611  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
Different shock length.
Really? Coz they look like medium length shock bodies in the middle in the pic. Do you know what length they are in mm?
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Old 03-06-2015, 03:07 PM
  #18612  
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pretty sure the EU tower is slightly taller then the new one.
The eu tower used the rear tki3 shocks.

New shocks is supposed to use a middle ground between front length and rear length creating a new shock length.

just from the research ive done.
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Old 03-06-2015, 03:24 PM
  #18613  
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Originally Posted by LosiPRRACER
pretty sure the EU tower is slightly taller then the new one.
The eu tower used the rear tki3 shocks.

New shocks is supposed to use a middle ground between front length and rear length creating a new shock length.

just from the research ive done.
Thats my understanding.
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Old 03-07-2015, 02:53 AM
  #18614  
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and what is the advantage of the new and longer shocks?
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:15 PM
  #18615  
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Originally Posted by houston
Same as EU tower setup
Originally Posted by rcmoe
But no where as ugly lol
What about the carrying handle of the EU? How are you supposed to comfortably carry your car around... by the wing?
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