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Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-04-2015, 03:33 AM
  #18571  
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Originally Posted by Eastside777 View Post
Okay can somebody share the secret in making the brakes work ? Seems like I have adjusted everything an I can not seem to get good brakes . It stops but if you give the car a push with the brakes on it feels grabby but doesn't lock in and stop the car . First day out with the car just trying to have it ready for Sunday's race . Thanks
I brought that issue up a long time ago. I tried everything under the sun tofix the grabbiness assuming we're taking about the same thing. .. I.e. it feels like the rotors are warped? I sanded, grinded, replaced, cleaned, adjusted, bed new brakes in and eventually switched to fiberglass. I've come to the conclusion that's how those brakes are. Oddly, on track you can't tell. Pushing the car with your foot and the brake on, you can tell.

Further assuming your brakes are measured and adjusted correctly.
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Old 03-04-2015, 04:14 AM
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It's wierd what you guys mention re: brakes and brakes grabbing. In approx 4 years of running MP9's I've never had any issues with either the kit black rotors or the slotted style.

As has been mentioned, make sure your EPA for brake direction is set correctly and also the exact rotor/pad measurement as per instruction manual. I've tried using the little springs between pads but found no noticeable improvement. Also tried fuel tubing instead of springs on brake levers but maybe I'm just not able to feel difference while on track so gone back to using stock springs and black rotors. Find they're somehow smoother and more controllable than the slotted rotors. Also I take some time to be sure the springs and stoppers are at exact position on the brake levers to be sure that the brakes engage within about 1.0-1.5mm of movement.

After setting everything as mentioned even when pushing car with hand on brakes full, no probs getting them to lock solid. Only prob I've ever had has been the car not stopping straight, as in when stopping from very high speeds to very slow, often my car will get crossed up but strangely this always happens to the right, never left. But as far as stopping power, no probs to get brakes to lock up. I'm using 7950 servo which has 35kg/486oz torque and that probably helps but just take the time to get everything exactly as per instruction manual and you guys should be ok or at least better as far as getting brakes to lockup. Hopefully...
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Old 03-04-2015, 06:59 AM
  #18573  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO View Post
I brought that issue up a long time ago. I tried everything under the sun tofix the grabbiness assuming we're taking about the same thing. .. I.e. it feels like the rotors are warped? I sanded, grinded, replaced, cleaned, adjusted, bed new brakes in and eventually switched to fiberglass. I've come to the conclusion that's how those brakes are. Oddly, on track you can't tell. Pushing the car with your foot and the brake on, you can tell.

Further assuming your brakes are measured and adjusted correctly.
Which fiberglass brakes are you using?
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:07 AM
  #18574  
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Is the there a new mp9 in the works? I've seen a bunch of them for sale latley so I was just wondering. I've been thinking about picking up one and switching from the rc8.2, but I don't want to buy one and a new car come out in a few months.
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:15 AM
  #18575  
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Originally Posted by aaron125 View Post
It's wierd what you guys mention re: brakes and brakes grabbing. In approx 4 years of running MP9's I've never had any issues with either the kit black rotors or the slotted style.

As has been mentioned, make sure your EPA for brake direction is set correctly and also the exact rotor/pad measurement as per instruction manual. I've tried using the little springs between pads but found no noticeable improvement. Also tried fuel tubing instead of springs on brake levers but maybe I'm just not able to feel difference while on track so gone back to using stock springs and black rotors. Find they're somehow smoother and more controllable than the slotted rotors. Also I take some time to be sure the springs and stoppers are at exact position on the brake levers to be sure that the brakes engage within about 1.0-1.5mm of movement.

After setting everything as mentioned even when pushing car with hand on brakes full, no probs getting them to lock solid. Only prob I've ever had has been the car not stopping straight, as in when stopping from very high speeds to very slow, often my car will get crossed up but strangely this always happens to the right, never left. But as far as stopping power, no probs to get brakes to lock up. I'm using 7950 servo which has 35kg/486oz torque and that probably helps but just take the time to get everything exactly as per instruction manual and you guys should be ok or at least better as far as getting brakes to lockup. Hopefully...
You mentioned your car crossing up upon hard braking from high speeds. Mine does the same thing. What I believe is causing that is the difs unloading under hard braking. Older full size front wheel drive cars used to do the same thing under hard braking. What it was, was an issue with suspension geometry, its called torque steer. Most likely it's the same thing with the mp9. I use the abs function on my Futaba 4pls and it helps alot.

Last edited by max92804; 03-04-2015 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:47 AM
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Good observation, but just odd that it wouldn't do the same under acceleration like a fwd car does as well.

So using the abs, do you then set your epa to full lock the car and then turn abs on?
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:03 AM
  #18577  
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Originally Posted by Spads11 View Post
Good observation, but just odd that it wouldn't do the same under acceleration like a fwd car does as well.

So using the abs, do you then set your epa to full lock the car and then turn abs on?
You have point about the car torque steering under excelleration. I'll have to do some research on that, it was just an idea. As for the abs I set my EPA for full brake and then adjust ABS. The key is to get the ABS cycling set so the car doesn't shutter under braking. Also there is a delay setting for the ABS which I have set so the ABS doesn't come on as soon as you hit the brakes I have it set to come on about a second after applying the brake
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by max92804 View Post
You have point about the car torque steering under excelleration. I'll have to do some research on that, it was just an idea. As for the abs I set my EPA for full brake and then adjust ABS. The key is to get the ABS cycling set so the car doesn't shutter under braking. Also there is a delay setting for the ABS which I have set so the ABS doesn't come on as soon as you hit the brakes I have it set to come on about a second after applying the brake
It was a good observation for sure about torque steer - I haven't used abs and will have to play with it some to see where I need to have it set. I have the 4px and the manual is really good, so I shouldn't have to reinvent the wheel to get it sorted...
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Old 03-04-2015, 08:32 AM
  #18579  
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Originally Posted by Jmnay_83 View Post
Is the there a new mp9 in the works? I've seen a bunch of them for sale latley so I was just wondering. I've been thinking about picking up one and switching from the rc8.2, but I don't want to buy one and a new car come out in a few months.
That question has been bouncing around for over a year now, but Kyosho and everyone involved with that company firmly denies that any new buggy is coming down the pipe anytime soon. Saying the current buggy is still as competitive as ever.

This is the time of year when most will switch sponsors if they are going to, so it seems like you'll always see more of each brand on here for about a month or two when that happens.

That's all I know, which isn't much...lol.

Brad
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:02 PM
  #18580  
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Why would you want to lock up the brakes and ultimately have the tires lose controlled contact with the dirt? I think that the objective to braking with off-road is to slow the car down, just like a full scale vehicle. Proper mechanical adjustments, brake bias and brake pad screw adjustments are critical. The latter, brake pad screw measurements, must be the same or else you'll have a delayed brake feel/effect. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:58 PM
  #18581  
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Assuming all brake adjustments being equal and correct, I do like the slotted discs better than the stock ones. The slotted discs provide stronger, more consistent braking. More consistent over time in long mains, and I can feel the difference in braking power consistency when I simply test the brake strength by holding one wheel and spinning the opposing wheel.
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Old 03-04-2015, 06:16 PM
  #18582  
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Originally Posted by golferdude1971 View Post
Why would you want to lock up the brakes and ultimately have the tires lose controlled contact with the dirt? I think that the objective to braking with off-road is to slow the car down, just like a full scale vehicle. Proper mechanical adjustments, brake bias and brake pad screw adjustments are critical. The latter, brake pad screw measurements, must be the same or else you'll have a delayed brake feel/effect. Just my 2 cents.
Brakes serve 2 purposes, 1 to slow the car down and 2 to stop the car. I don't know of any full size car that the brakes don't lock at some point.
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Old 03-04-2015, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SEF View Post
Assuming all brake adjustments being equal and correct, I do like the slotted discs better than the stock ones. The slotted discs provide stronger, more consistent braking. More consistent over time in long mains, and I can feel the difference in braking power consistency when I simply test the brake strength by holding one wheel and spinning the opposing wheel.
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Old 03-04-2015, 06:39 PM
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Torque steer in FWD is because the engine was placed parallel to the axles (and not longitudinal like most RWD and AWD/4WD). The front driveshafts are therefore unequal in length and them spinning up causes the car to steer.
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Torque steer in FWD is because the engine was placed parallel to the axles (and not longitudinal like most RWD and AWD/4WD). The front driveshafts are therefore unequal in length and them spinning up causes the car to steer.
That's pretty much how I've always understood torque steer to occur. But the original post mentioning torque steer was in reply to my comment about my car getting crossed up when slowing from high speeds. How can torque steer even occur when decelerating, as there isn't any torque being applied to the wheels when braking. Is it possible for torque steer to occur while braking?

I use the ABS function on my radio, also with a delay set so it doesn't kick in instantly. And as mentioned above, brakes are not an on/off switch, just like throttle is progressive and one doesn't need to pull the trigger to WOT every time they accelerate, same goes for braking.

An interesting discussion though.
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