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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 01-26-2015, 07:57 PM
  #18286  
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[QUOTE=rfleck;13808447]I've had spur gears chip in the past when running on super hard packed big air tracks. Curious if others who have had this same issue tried the one piece motor mount plate and had success. Also, for thise who have this piece, it it made of a higher quality 7075 aluminum or is it cast? I love the car, but hate this one issue.



X2 .. I haven't run my mp9 but I pulled the engine checking the chassis out and I could see where the clutch has tapped the chassis .. I went ahead and ordered the one piece engine mount so I'd like some info on it as well since it'll be awhile before I'm running
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:30 PM
  #18287  
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Yeah, haven't heard much comment on the Kyosho piece - plenty of stuff on the m2c stuff, but not that one.
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:03 PM
  #18288  
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[QUOTE=rfleck;13808447]I've had spur gears chip in the past when running on super hard packed big air tracks. Curious if others who have had this same issue tried the one piece motor mount plate and had success. Also, for thise who have this piece, it it made of a higher quality 7075 aluminum or is it cast? I love the car, but hate this one issue.

The U-shaped piece (IFW456) is made from 7075 aluminum and works great. I use that along with the (blue) 777 motor mounts (IFW102) and a 1mm shim under the center diff.
Although there is still a little rubbing of the clutchbell on the chassis, it never causes a flameout or any other issue.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:25 PM
  #18289  
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Ok guys, I undefstsnd this is a dumb and embarrassing question but I need some advise. I'm new to the TKI3 so I'm not familiar with parts differences yet.

Where the the differences between the RS diffs and the kit diffs (F/C/R) What about diff cases?
Only asking because I'd like to have a few set up's ready to just swap out. The complete RS set up's are cheap on eBay.

As always, thanks for the info.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:51 PM
  #18290  
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Originally Posted by Vintageguy View Post
Ok guys, I undefstsnd this is a dumb and embarrassing question but I need some advise. I'm new to the TKI3 so I'm not familiar with parts differences yet.

Where the the differences between the RS diffs and the kit diffs (F/C/R) What about diff cases?
Only asking because I'd like to have a few set up's ready to just swap out. The complete RS set up's are cheap on eBay.

As always, thanks for the info.
Nothing wrong with your question mate, nothing to be embarrassed about either.

Now, I'm not 100% sure but I think the RS diffs are a 2-gear setup, not 4 spider gears as per the kit diffs. Other than that, pretty sure the cases are the same. But if you purchase your diffs from Japan, in parts, you can get them for about the same or even cheaper than those from eBay. I know the ones you're referring to as I've bought a few in the past from eBay but unless you can score them super cheap by winning an auction, definitely they can be purchased much cheaper from Japan, even including postage.
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Old 01-28-2015, 12:06 AM
  #18291  
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Originally Posted by aaron125 View Post
Nothing wrong with your question mate, nothing to be embarrassed about either.

Now, I'm not 100% sure but I think the RS diffs are a 2-gear setup, not 4 spider gears as per the kit diffs. Other than that, pretty sure the cases are the same. But if you purchase your diffs from Japan, in parts, you can get them for about the same or even cheaper than those from eBay. I know the ones you're referring to as I've bought a few in the past from eBay but unless you can score them super cheap by winning an auction, definitely they can be purchased much cheaper from Japan, even including postage.
Thanks a million bud. I'll order a few.

I am also building one from parts (Fioroni chassis, towers, center diff mount, etc.). I already have a Ti screw kit, Ti turnbuckles & hinge pins, Kyosho option parts, etc. it's basically a shelf queen / display car. A friend of mine owns a large production anodizing shop. I will change some colors around since its a show car. I know, it's sad to put that kind of money into a TKI3 and not run it. It's being built slowly due to the cost.

The other option would be carbon towers & Radio tray with the Kyosho hard chassis. I'm kind of stuck on which route to go with.
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Old 01-28-2015, 03:40 AM
  #18292  
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Thanks for the heads up on the 93mm shafts chaps. Going to get them ordered now and hopefully it will solve the issue (not a major issue but DNF's grate on my nerves!).
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:45 AM
  #18293  
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Shiza!! I just ordered 91mm all the way around! I hope I dont get any dnfs'
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:07 AM
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Been using 91mm driveshafts for over 4 years without any hassles, so don't fret. It really depends on the driver/setup/track combo as many, like myself, never have any problems while others seem to somehow manage to make their driveshafts pop out, so worry about it only if and when it actually happens.
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Old 01-28-2015, 05:14 PM
  #18295  
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Same here.
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Old 01-28-2015, 05:20 PM
  #18296  
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Originally Posted by aaron125 View Post
Been using 91mm driveshafts for over 4 years without any hassles, so don't fret. It really depends on the driver/setup/track combo as many, like myself, never have any problems while others seem to somehow manage to make their driveshafts pop out, so worry about it only if and when it actually happens.
Make sure you keep uptravel in check

Use factory or csi shock boots
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Old 01-28-2015, 05:36 PM
  #18297  
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
Make sure you keep uptravel in check

Use factory or csi shock boots
+1 on csi shock boots. last longer than factory boots
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Old 01-29-2015, 01:21 AM
  #18298  
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Originally Posted by houston View Post
Make sure you keep uptravel in check

Use factory or csi shock boots
Dumb question time, is it possible to limit uptravel? I have had issues with drive shafts popping out but it only occurs if I mess up a landing and end up landing on one wheel. I am running 93mm on the rear and replaced my front out drives which were pretty worn and I haven't had one pop since It would be handy to be able to limit the up travel though.
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Old 01-29-2015, 02:18 AM
  #18299  
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I would add that the drive shafts popping out is not a 'major problem' for me either. The front shafts are pretty worn having been in the buggy since I got it a year ago and this has only occurred a couple of time in the last two outings. So I presume the 91mm drive shaft issue is one of poor maintenance on my part but I will opt for the 93 mm now as I need to replace anyhow. In sum, its a problem with my lack of maintenance rather than a product quality issue per se.
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:40 AM
  #18300  
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Originally Posted by PaulNZ View Post
Dumb question time, is it possible to limit uptravel? I have had issues with drive shafts popping out but it only occurs if I mess up a landing and end up landing on one wheel. I am running 93mm on the rear and replaced my front out drives which were pretty worn and I haven't had one pop since It would be handy to be able to limit the up travel though.
Yes. Uptravel is limited primarily by using limiters (spacers) on the outside of the shock shafts right above the shock rod ends. This limits how far the shafts can go up into the body.

Hope that helps...

Brad
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