1LikesInferno MP9 thread
10-10-2016, 02:30 PM - Wikipost
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01-26-2015, 07:57 PM
[QUOTE=rfleck;13808447]I've had spur gears chip in the past when running on super hard packed big air tracks. Curious if others who have had this same issue tried the one piece motor mount plate and had success. Also, for thise who have this piece, it it made of a higher quality 7075 aluminum or is it cast? I love the car, but hate this one issue.
X2 .. I haven't run my mp9 but I pulled the engine checking the chassis out and I could see where the clutch has tapped the chassis .. I went ahead and ordered the one piece engine mount so I'd like some info on it as well since it'll be awhile before I'm running
X2 .. I haven't run my mp9 but I pulled the engine checking the chassis out and I could see where the clutch has tapped the chassis .. I went ahead and ordered the one piece engine mount so I'd like some info on it as well since it'll be awhile before I'm running
01-26-2015, 09:30 PM
Yeah, haven't heard much comment on the Kyosho piece - plenty of stuff on the m2c stuff, but not that one.
01-26-2015, 11:03 PM
[QUOTE=rfleck;13808447]I've had spur gears chip in the past when running on super hard packed big air tracks. Curious if others who have had this same issue tried the one piece motor mount plate and had success. Also, for thise who have this piece, it it made of a higher quality 7075 aluminum or is it cast? I love the car, but hate this one issue.
The U-shaped piece (IFW456) is made from 7075 aluminum and works great. I use that along with the (blue) 777 motor mounts (IFW102) and a 1mm shim under the center diff.
Although there is still a little rubbing of the clutchbell on the chassis, it never causes a flameout or any other issue.
The U-shaped piece (IFW456) is made from 7075 aluminum and works great. I use that along with the (blue) 777 motor mounts (IFW102) and a 1mm shim under the center diff.
Although there is still a little rubbing of the clutchbell on the chassis, it never causes a flameout or any other issue.
01-27-2015, 11:25 PM
Ok guys, I undefstsnd this is a dumb and embarrassing question but I need some advise. I'm new to the TKI3 so I'm not familiar with parts differences yet.
Where the the differences between the RS diffs and the kit diffs (F/C/R) What about diff cases?
Only asking because I'd like to have a few set up's ready to just swap out. The complete RS set up's are cheap on eBay.
As always, thanks for the info.
Where the the differences between the RS diffs and the kit diffs (F/C/R) What about diff cases?
Only asking because I'd like to have a few set up's ready to just swap out. The complete RS set up's are cheap on eBay.
As always, thanks for the info.
01-27-2015, 11:51 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Originally Posted by Vintageguy
Ok guys, I undefstsnd this is a dumb and embarrassing question but I need some advise. I'm new to the TKI3 so I'm not familiar with parts differences yet.
Where the the differences between the RS diffs and the kit diffs (F/C/R) What about diff cases?
Only asking because I'd like to have a few set up's ready to just swap out. The complete RS set up's are cheap on eBay.
As always, thanks for the info.
Where the the differences between the RS diffs and the kit diffs (F/C/R) What about diff cases?
Only asking because I'd like to have a few set up's ready to just swap out. The complete RS set up's are cheap on eBay.
As always, thanks for the info.
Now, I'm not 100% sure but I think the RS diffs are a 2-gear setup, not 4 spider gears as per the kit diffs. Other than that, pretty sure the cases are the same. But if you purchase your diffs from Japan, in parts, you can get them for about the same or even cheaper than those from eBay. I know the ones you're referring to as I've bought a few in the past from eBay but unless you can score them super cheap by winning an auction, definitely they can be purchased much cheaper from Japan, even including postage.
01-28-2015, 12:06 AM
Originally Posted by aaron125
Nothing wrong with your question mate, nothing to be embarrassed about either.
Now, I'm not 100% sure but I think the RS diffs are a 2-gear setup, not 4 spider gears as per the kit diffs. Other than that, pretty sure the cases are the same. But if you purchase your diffs from Japan, in parts, you can get them for about the same or even cheaper than those from eBay. I know the ones you're referring to as I've bought a few in the past from eBay but unless you can score them super cheap by winning an auction, definitely they can be purchased much cheaper from Japan, even including postage.
Now, I'm not 100% sure but I think the RS diffs are a 2-gear setup, not 4 spider gears as per the kit diffs. Other than that, pretty sure the cases are the same. But if you purchase your diffs from Japan, in parts, you can get them for about the same or even cheaper than those from eBay. I know the ones you're referring to as I've bought a few in the past from eBay but unless you can score them super cheap by winning an auction, definitely they can be purchased much cheaper from Japan, even including postage.
I am also building one from parts (Fioroni chassis, towers, center diff mount, etc.). I already have a Ti screw kit, Ti turnbuckles & hinge pins, Kyosho option parts, etc. it's basically a shelf queen / display car. A friend of mine owns a large production anodizing shop. I will change some colors around since its a show car. I know, it's sad to put that kind of money into a TKI3 and not run it. It's being built slowly due to the cost.
The other option would be carbon towers & Radio tray with the Kyosho hard chassis. I'm kind of stuck on which route to go with.
01-28-2015, 03:40 AM
Tech Apprentice
Thanks for the heads up on the 93mm shafts chaps. Going to get them ordered now and hopefully it will solve the issue (not a major issue but DNF's grate on my nerves!).
01-28-2015, 10:45 AM
Shiza!! I just ordered 91mm all the way around! I hope I dont get any dnfs'
01-28-2015, 11:07 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Been using 91mm driveshafts for over 4 years without any hassles, so don't fret. It really depends on the driver/setup/track combo as many, like myself, never have any problems while others seem to somehow manage to make their driveshafts pop out, so worry about it only if and when it actually happens.
01-28-2015, 05:14 PM
Same here.
01-28-2015, 05:20 PM
Originally Posted by aaron125
Been using 91mm driveshafts for over 4 years without any hassles, so don't fret. It really depends on the driver/setup/track combo as many, like myself, never have any problems while others seem to somehow manage to make their driveshafts pop out, so worry about it only if and when it actually happens.
Use factory or csi shock boots
01-28-2015, 05:36 PM
Originally Posted by houston
Make sure you keep uptravel in check
Use factory or csi shock boots
Use factory or csi shock boots
01-29-2015, 01:21 AM
Originally Posted by houston
Make sure you keep uptravel in check
Use factory or csi shock boots
Use factory or csi shock boots
01-29-2015, 02:18 AM
Tech Apprentice
I would add that the drive shafts popping out is not a 'major problem' for me either. The front shafts are pretty worn having been in the buggy since I got it a year ago and this has only occurred a couple of time in the last two outings. So I presume the 91mm drive shaft issue is one of poor maintenance on my part but I will opt for the 93 mm now as I need to replace anyhow. In sum, its a problem with my lack of maintenance rather than a product quality issue per se.
01-29-2015, 06:40 AM
Originally Posted by PaulNZ
Dumb question time, is it possible to limit uptravel? I have had issues with drive shafts popping out but it only occurs if I mess up a landing and end up landing on one wheel. I am running 93mm on the rear and replaced my front out drives which were pretty worn and I haven't had one pop since It would be handy to be able to limit the up travel though.
Hope that helps...
Brad
