Inferno MP9 thread
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Well I got my Kyosho MP9 TKI3, in on wed waited to assemble it the weekend I had a race on Fri night. So I got up extra early and started my project. Now I know why I had to take out that second on my house
this car is a-sum. The time that went into details for every area of this car. This is what you call a racers dream. Put all my KO-Propo radio gear in it. My OS Speed that has not even fully broke in. Put some on road GT tires to fill the car out in the front of my house WOW!, this thing needs a track. I really think this car will be hard to beat with top racers driving it. What I did for my shocks I pulled vacuum on the oil to take any air in system out. The shaft almost to fully retract position After bouncing it on the street never hit the ground, with ride height never change on me. I remember my Mugen changing very quickly. I believe the car handles so well with the TKI3 because of the time spent testing the shocks. Best shocks I have seen yet. I just can't say enough about the design of the Kyosho MP9 TKI3. I'm a believer now.

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I used to run zero rebound using the optional bladders. After a long day of testing a few months ago, I found that I prefer 50% rebound (optional bladders) on the tracks I run on. Buggy felt more stable in the bumps and jumped much better.
Running zero rebound made the buggy feel a bit nervous as it tended to want to continue rolling more in the turns. At least that's my experience.
As with all things tuning related, it all comes down to how it feels for you. What feels good for a Pro may feel awkward for you....
Running zero rebound made the buggy feel a bit nervous as it tended to want to continue rolling more in the turns. At least that's my experience.
As with all things tuning related, it all comes down to how it feels for you. What feels good for a Pro may feel awkward for you....
Tech Adept

I purchased my TKI3 from a friend. Prior to my purchase my fiend, whos mechanical work I trust more than my own, had completely rebuilt it for his own use. So I checked a couple things and took it to our local track.
Since then I have rebuilt it a handful of times and had different setups on it for different tracks. Most recently I have put the setup he gave me on it in preparation for a race at pur home track. The issue is it is not quite jumping the way it was before.
It seems to want to jump nose high now, where before I remember it jumping very nose heavy. I prefer the nose down flight.
My question is what could be causing this difference? Perhaps I have something hanging or sticking somewhere or maybe my friend made a slight modication to the setup and forgot about it.
Since then I have rebuilt it a handful of times and had different setups on it for different tracks. Most recently I have put the setup he gave me on it in preparation for a race at pur home track. The issue is it is not quite jumping the way it was before.
It seems to want to jump nose high now, where before I remember it jumping very nose heavy. I prefer the nose down flight.
My question is what could be causing this difference? Perhaps I have something hanging or sticking somewhere or maybe my friend made a slight modication to the setup and forgot about it.
R/C Tech Elite Member
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It may be completely normal for "him" to run internal limiters, but IMO most people who run 1/8 scale nitro buggies do not. I guess the advantage's of using internal limiters is that they will provide constant droop over a longer period of time versus using the droop screws only and they may prevent the bottom shock eyelet from ripping off when using max droop.
I have not had any issues with my droop changing during a long main or practice session. I have also never broken a bottom shock eyelet in the 3 years I have been running the Kyosho buggy.

And I have seen Dan drive LMAO
Jk bud


That limiter can be used for two purposes. #1 obviously limit droop. #2 makes for a smoother shock function since the piston never gets to the bottom of the shock body were it squeezes out the shock oil and creates a slight vacuum.

The diaphragms/bladders you want are from the TKI2 part number is:
KYOIF346-03
The bladders from the TKI3 are KYOIF346-09 which are very thin and collapse too easily.
KYOIF346-03
The bladders from the TKI3 are KYOIF346-09 which are very thin and collapse too easily.

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The diaphragms/bladders you want are from the TKI2 part number is:
KYOIF346-03
The bladders from the TKI3 are KYOIF346-09 which are very thin and collapse too easily.

KYOIF346-03
The bladders from the TKI3 are KYOIF346-09 which are very thin and collapse too easily.

Tech Regular
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The diaphragms/bladders you want are from the TKI2 part number is:
KYOIF346-03
The bladders from the TKI3 are KYOIF346-09 which are very thin and collapse too easily.

KYOIF346-03
The bladders from the TKI3 are KYOIF346-09 which are very thin and collapse too easily.


I purchased my TKI3 from a friend. Prior to my purchase my fiend, whos mechanical work I trust more than my own, had completely rebuilt it for his own use. So I checked a couple things and took it to our local track.
Since then I have rebuilt it a handful of times and had different setups on it for different tracks. Most recently I have put the setup he gave me on it in preparation for a race at pur home track. The issue is it is not quite jumping the way it was before.
It seems to want to jump nose high now, where before I remember it jumping very nose heavy. I prefer the nose down flight.
My question is what could be causing this difference? Perhaps I have something hanging or sticking somewhere or maybe my friend made a slight modication to the setup and forgot about it.
Since then I have rebuilt it a handful of times and had different setups on it for different tracks. Most recently I have put the setup he gave me on it in preparation for a race at pur home track. The issue is it is not quite jumping the way it was before.
It seems to want to jump nose high now, where before I remember it jumping very nose heavy. I prefer the nose down flight.
My question is what could be causing this difference? Perhaps I have something hanging or sticking somewhere or maybe my friend made a slight modication to the setup and forgot about it.

Hey guys I was wondering if you can get the original body and battery and radio tray clips for the Kyosho tki3 kit. I have a problem of loosing body clips and any retaining clip in general.