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Inferno MP9 thread

Inferno MP9 thread

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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 10-07-2013, 09:53 PM
  #15511  
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I've assembled everything but the radio tray and engine mount on this kit. Love it, and to me worth every penny. Such a better build and higher quality all around than my last kit :P

Question about the upper arm spacer clips. I've set it up like most of the team drivers with 11degrees of kick up and long wheel base front, and the lower setting in the upper arms. 0 degree additional caster. However, according to the manual I should be putting 2 2mm clips to the front of the arms but where it naturally rests on my kit I have it how they would suggest you install the clips for 9degrees of kick up. Only part that has me scratching my head :P Suggestions?
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by codeman View Post
I've assembled everything but the radio tray and engine mount on this kit. Love it, and to me worth every penny. Such a better build and higher quality all around than my last kit :P

Question about the upper arm spacer clips. I've set it up like most of the team drivers with 11degrees of kick up and long wheel base front, and the lower setting in the upper arms. 0 degree additional caster. However, according to the manual I should be putting 2 2mm clips to the front of the arms but where it naturally rests on my kit I have it how they would suggest you install the clips for 9degrees of kick up. Only part that has me scratching my head :P Suggestions?
I just looked at the manual and yeah, that's not where you want to put them for the standard setting. You want 2mm front and 2mm rear. These don't control caster, just act to take up the spacing in the upper arms to allow you to adjust the caster. With a c-hub geometry, you always want the upper and lower hinge pins parallel, which is why they give you those 9 upper arm bushings (run the 9deg kickup, you use the 9deg upper bushings to essentially lower the front of the upper hinge pin to the same angle as the lower hinge pin). Here's the setting guide link which describes how you should run all the adjustments:

MP9 TKI Setting Guide
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Old 10-08-2013, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by hookem34 View Post
Have to give those a try.
Yeah you will not be disappointed I hate the bunching from the Kyosho/CSI boots and get ripped on the spring perch after awhile also very easy to switch springs. Just push the boot up the shaft to remove perch no headaches. I have over two gallons on my TKI3 with the same MBX7 boots and still no tears or dirt under them when I rebuilt shocks.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by AZRC4Me View Post
I just looked at the manual and yeah, that's not where you want to put them for the standard setting. You want 2mm front and 2mm rear. These don't control caster, just act to take up the spacing in the upper arms to allow you to adjust the caster. With a c-hub geometry, you always want the upper and lower hinge pins parallel, which is why they give you those 9 upper arm bushings (run the 9deg kickup, you use the 9deg upper bushings to essentially lower the front of the upper hinge pin to the same angle as the lower hinge pin). Here's the setting guide link which describes how you should run all the adjustments:

MP9 TKI Setting Guide
Thanks for the info. I do have that sheet in the manual I was referencing. I set it up so on the lower hinge pin in have the 11 degree, long wheel base (so hole top left and top right at the front, and holes on the outside on rear). Seemed tight installing it, but probably natural since the holes in the adjustment blocks are straight and not angled at their respective degree.

Anyhow, I followed settings for Tebo and the upper arm uses the L block and the low setting on the rear. So for all purposes it should be that I need to adjust clips for 11degrees but the upper arms are tight with 2x2mm in the front. The manual doesn't show 2 in front and 2 in rear at all. I'll double check everything again tonight and that the upper and lower pins are parallel to each other.
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:41 AM
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My new body,hand made.
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by codeman View Post
Thanks for the info. I do have that sheet in the manual I was referencing. I set it up so on the lower hinge pin in have the 11 degree, long wheel base (so hole top left and top right at the front, and holes on the outside on rear). Seemed tight installing it, but probably natural since the holes in the adjustment blocks are straight and not angled at their respective degree.

Anyhow, I followed settings for Tebo and the upper arm uses the L block and the low setting on the rear. So for all purposes it should be that I need to adjust clips for 11degrees but the upper arms are tight with 2x2mm in the front. The manual doesn't show 2 in front and 2 in rear at all. I'll double check everything again tonight and that the upper and lower pins are parallel to each other.
I think you're referring to running the wide tread width on the front where you're stating "long wheel base". Wheel base typically references the distance between the center point of the front and rear axles.

As Sean (AZRC4Me) will also tell you... with the upper arms if you just remove all of the spacer clips.. then move the front wheels up and down through the entire range of travel several times allowing the upper arms to come to rest naturally without any manipulation and then install the clips according to the void spaces in the front and rear sides of the arms.

Its been my experience that this will typically result in 1- 2mm clip in front, and 1- 2mm clip in the rear of the front upper arms when running the 11 degree front end setup.
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HH View Post
I think you're referring to running the wide tread width on the front where you're stating "long wheel base". Wheel base typically references the distance between the center point of the front and rear axles.

As Sean (AZRC4Me) will also tell you... with the upper arms if you just remove all of the spacer clips.. then move the front wheels up and down through the entire range of travel several times allowing the upper arms to come to rest naturally without any manipulation and then install the clips according to the void spaces in the front and rear sides of the arms.

Its been my experience that this will typically result in 1- 2mm clip in front, and 1- 2mm clip in the rear of the front upper arms when running the 11 degree front end setup.
exactly
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:57 AM
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Yes wide tread! Doh, my mistake in calling it wheel base. Of course wheel base is the distance between the front and rear axles My bad.

That's what I ended up doing and how I came to my current config but works well with 2 in front and 2 rear as well. I was just confused as I went through the settings sheet again and when I put both 2mm clips up front it bound up the suspension travel a bit. Good to know I was doing it right and didn't just miss something with setting the proper eccentrics for the 11degree setup.

Last edited by codeman; 10-09-2013 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 10-11-2013, 03:18 AM
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Default MP9 Tki3 RTR

Dear MP9 experts,

I was about to buy the new MP9 Tki3 kit, until I read about the RTR Set and its attractive price.

Need your advice to know the differences in specs between the RTR and Kit.

Is the RTR good enough for club racing?


Thanks
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Old 10-11-2013, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by vadersing View Post
Dear MP9 experts,

I was about to buy the new MP9 Tki3 kit, until I read about the RTR Set and its attractive price.

Need your advice to know the differences in specs between the RTR and Kit.

Is the RTR good enough for club racing?


Thanks
Are you starting from scratch or do you have a radio, electronics, and engine? RTR engines can be hit or miss. But 99% of the time RTR servos are junk. The radio and receiver can usually be used, but very few companies spend the money on worthwhile servos (JQ might be the only company to spec club race worthy rtr equipment).

In any case, I have not seen a production version of the MP9 rtr, and Kyosho has been known to put out pre-production pictures that don't always match the production vehicle, but from what I can see they cut cost by giving you stamped shock towers and chassis, plastic rear uprights, plastic rear hinge pin holder, cast steering knuckles, and non-hex hardware. Shocks and springs look different, but I am not sure how different they are compared to the kit version. Anyone jump in if I missed something.

Depending on your situation, you can make an argument for buying the rtr and replacing stuff as you wear them out or break them, particularly the stamped front tower would be prone to breaking, and the chassis can be tweaked easily and will handle differently compared to a MP9. I would immediately replace the servos if they are junk, and the phillips head hardware is an annoyance, especially if you have all hex tools.

Or if cost is a driver, I see plenty of used MP9 tki3s in the for sale section. You definitely need some experience and a keen eye when buying used (especially used engines), but I've been seeing plenty of good deals lately.
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:44 PM
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Is the least amount of toe in possible for the rear 2 degrees? Or is there a way to get it to 0
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:46 PM
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Hey guys, looking to get a tki3 but I was told that usually when kyosho makes a ready set(rtr) out of their current kit that a new kit is in the works. Can anyone confirm this? I don't want to drop that much money on a kit if it is going to be out dated in a few months.

Thanks
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Roni45 View Post
Hey guys, looking to get a tki3 but I was told that usually when kyosho makes a ready set(rtr) out of their current kit that a new kit is in the works. Can anyone confirm this? I don't want to drop that much money on a kit if it is going to be out dated in a few months.

Thanks
If I had to guess they would release a new kit around the time of the 2014 Worlds if they were to. Who knows if it'd be an all new kit or another update, but the TKI3 is awesome as is. Just bought and built one myself. Was curious like you if it was worth waiting but nobody knows. I did read however that Yuichi stated that the release of the RTR wasn't a sign of a new kit any time soon though so....
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:30 PM
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2014 worlds and im not sure what they would update if anything , seriously


the car is phenomenal
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:59 PM
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How many race days are u guys getting on genuine kyosho bearings all round on the car?
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