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Another TKI thread, more TKI4 Specific http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...buggy-kit.html

TKI4 Replacement Parts (Good for upgrading from TKI3) http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Replace...ts_c_1505.html

TKI4 Optional Parts http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Option-Parts_c_1506.html

Some notes on the new Towers/Long shocks here

Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft

Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

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Old 03-13-2009, 09:24 AM
  #1501  
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Originally Posted by didrace
what about the front a arms?
ive had my mp9 5 months now and its still on the original front arms ive had no problems with them ,ive only had rear diff housing problems,i race it almost every weekend on astro
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:29 AM
  #1502  
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Originally Posted by Matthijs
Start in front, you will not like it in the center, makes the car unstable and nervous. When you build the TCD diff's pay attention to the manual! One side of the squared parts is 14mm and the other 13 (I think). The widest side should be put horizontal, if not it will stick out of the diffhousing and will touch the spurgear. And even if you've got it right it needs some time to settle in, it will come loose. I liked it so far on tight tracks with grip.
lol funnt you mention that cause it actually goes together much better putting all the 13mm sides the same way..lol I figured that out the second I built it.. so do you run it in teh center outside??? I was hearing thats the main place to run it??
BTW thanks for the input
MO
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:32 AM
  #1503  
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i raced it twice on astro as well and havent had any issues either..but the people at coventry told me that usually in the astro there arent a lot of breakages... but i heard a lot of people in these forums that say the mp9 dont finish the races usually..they are not reliable..and that counts a lot against kyosho..

when i race the car and get alot experience with it then i will be able to say my thoughts..
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Old 03-14-2009, 07:57 AM
  #1504  
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Hi,

I have just started, to build my Inferno MP9, I am now at part 3 which shows how to assamble the rear gearbox I am having problems with the shim number 20 - "13 X6 x 0.15mm" it shows that I need to use two of these, but in the diagram it only shows the left portion that it needs to go, I tried to assamble it but I could not could you guys show me the correct way of doing this, thanks? please help because I stuck
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Old 03-14-2009, 08:34 AM
  #1505  
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artooks, i will tell you my opinion

the shim 20 that goes between the ballbearing and the differential case will only be used if there is a baclash between the ring gear and the pinon gear..
it doesnt matter in which side you use it..as long as the mesh is smooth..
i am not sure in the mp9 if it is must to use the shims but i dont think so...

some people say that when they first build it the diff doesnt feel very smooth but after some running it gets very smooth...for me this somethimes works sometimes does not.. it depends how smooth and how notchy...

first is important to understand why the shim goes there..
the shim is a very small washers that helps to close a gap and push the gears in a better mesh if it is needed... becareful.. you dont want the pinion gear to be pushed sideways in the case..also make sure that you put a shim between the ball bearings the pinoin gear passes through...it is the first step in part 3 and the ball bearing are the number 19..

if you did not understand what i mean...i will repost what some pros here wrote and read it again...


originally posted by ezveedub
On the rear pinion gear itself, they install a small shim washer to space it off the rear inside bearing and on the outside, they place another small shim between the rear driveshaft and bearing also. This keeps the pinion and driveshaft from possibly touching the outer race and turning the bearing in the case. The shims are 5x7mm (#96643), the same that are used for the clutch bearings. You have to check the gear mesh again if you do this. Someone suggested to apply CA to the bearing and press the bearing into place, but you have to be careful with that. If you get it into the bearing, its done. On the bushing, the control arms have pointed ends, which places a lot of force on the bushing centers. Installing the 1186 washers distributes the force onto the entire hinge pin holder instead, plus it removed some play that the lower arms had. I find you can also use the 1185 washers on the front upper arms to at the rear.

Some have had these issues, some don't, but this is what some are doing/suggesting. Make sure you clear the engine from touching the rear driveshaft also, very important. If it just berely clears, then it needs the case to be shaved.


originally posted by pitpop:
good info from ezveedub, it's simple for you:

1. put washers behind the arms
2. use .02 mm shims on either side of the pinon bearings
3. do not put side load on the pinion bearings during assembly
4. CLEAR rear drive shaft from engine
5. use proper grease on gears

these are only tech tips, that's pretty much it

all these are tips tha you have to follow through out the whole build but it also explains about the diff....

the best grease to use is the mobil 1...you can also buy it from amainhobbies ..
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:02 AM
  #1506  
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Yes but I think this is about another car, look in part 3 it says I must use two shims but in the diagram there is only one used and that is in the left part, I also tried it to attach it but it is bigger that the bearing therefore does not like the socket which it goes, and it squeezez.

My question is, ,in part 3 how many shims should I use and where and how.?

if you can show me a pic I will be grateful thanks.
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:10 AM
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Where the second shim goes, I tried now to install one where it show in the diagram in the left side, that worked out well , when I try to install it both ways it does not fit, I going nuts here, I could not figure out where the second shim goes, please help me
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Old 03-14-2009, 10:06 AM
  #1508  
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Originally Posted by artooks
Where the second shim goes, I tried now to install one where it show in the diagram in the left side, that worked out well , when I try to install it both ways it does not fit, I going nuts here, I could not figure out where the second shim goes, please help me
hiya artook,

Shalom! installing the shims on your diff is easy. you only ever install shims on one side of the diff, or the other, not both sides.

for instance, if you assemble the diff in the gearboxes and find that the diffs do not rotate smoothly, this means they are too tight. you will need to put a shim(or two) on the diff side facing the teeth on the crown gear( that's the teeth on the diff cases.

if the diffs spin freely but there is quite a lot of gear lash(this means you can rotate the diff pinion quite a bit before the diff crown gears 'bite' and rotate the diff) you should place a shim (or two) on the side that's backing the crown gear(smooth side with the screw heads)

remember, you dunt ever put shims on both sides at once.

shalom and God Bless!

-alexander
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Old 03-15-2009, 05:01 PM
  #1509  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
Just to note, that's oil their talking about, not grease. Either one works for RC apps. The Valvoline grease has a higher temp protection spec.
How much of that grease is supposed to be applied on the gear mesh and how often? What happens during high speed runs does it not cause any splatter inside?
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Old 03-15-2009, 06:28 PM
  #1510  
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You just grease so it spreads all throughout the teeth the qty is not the mark for you to decide what is the right amount of grease.

Just make sure that the pinion and the spur gear has had it's coating.

Yes it will splutter all over the place with usage and thats normal, after every race I open the rear diffs case for grease inspection and tear down the entire diffs every 2 races, preventative maintenance is the key to ensure that your buggy runs 100%.
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Old 03-15-2009, 06:29 PM
  #1511  
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oh forgot to ask anyone got a sales rep contact for aka tires, cant get the info from their site.

PM me for the email please...
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:14 PM
  #1512  
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AKA Sales Rep here what can I do for you?
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Old 03-16-2009, 06:21 AM
  #1513  
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ok so I ran teh TCD diff in teh center and I have to say I like it.
however I had to run 2 diff gaskets to make it fit right, then I tryed it in the front and it doesnt fit very well, its VERY tight when you tighten it all up...anyone else notice this and what are the solutions??
thanks
MO
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:15 AM
  #1514  
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Default mp9 setup

hey guys what is the best setup that everybody is using that is stable and easy to drive please let me no i am struggling thanks
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:25 AM
  #1515  
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1fastguy1,

I have yet to build one yet, but I have heard that there is a 13mm side and a 14mm side to the plates. Have you tried rotating the plates one way or the other to see if they fit better?


RCtweek,

What is your buggy doing that defines unsettled? Jumping, steering? Too loose out of corners?

Let me know. You can PM me if you'd like also.
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