300 for a .21 What are you buying
05-05-2008, 07:54 PM
#46
I personally would not run a GO motor, i have seen allot of people have problems with these motors.
if i had 300 dollars, i would definitly without a doubt look into OS V-spec, Novarossi P5XS, Plus 21-5 (not the K version) RB S5..
and if you wanted to spend a little more than 300, buy an RB C6.
also i wanted to add, people who are sponsored by motor companies dont all run the motors because they HAVE to...some in fact choose to run such mills and have success running those motors.
i would rather listen to an individual who chose to run a motor and IS fast on the track than somebody who is just on a public forum telling me to buy some motor cause its cheap and fast....
Look at who is winning both in the sportsman classes and pro classes...you will rarely see people having complications with the motors listed above, but you will see people having problems with such GO engines.
not saying anybody is wrong or right, but thats just my personal opinion about choosing which motor to buy and who or what to take advice from.
if i had 300 dollars, i would definitly without a doubt look into OS V-spec, Novarossi P5XS, Plus 21-5 (not the K version) RB S5..
and if you wanted to spend a little more than 300, buy an RB C6.
also i wanted to add, people who are sponsored by motor companies dont all run the motors because they HAVE to...some in fact choose to run such mills and have success running those motors.
i would rather listen to an individual who chose to run a motor and IS fast on the track than somebody who is just on a public forum telling me to buy some motor cause its cheap and fast....
Look at who is winning both in the sportsman classes and pro classes...you will rarely see people having complications with the motors listed above, but you will see people having problems with such GO engines.
not saying anybody is wrong or right, but thats just my personal opinion about choosing which motor to buy and who or what to take advice from.
05-06-2008, 12:04 AM
#49
IMHO the C6 is the "best" motor I have used so far...
All the insanely fast guys around here run Nova P5's and JP B5 (both are around $250+ a pop) and a FEW run V-specs... But surprisingly a couple of guys have OS VG's (modded) and get great power AND great runtime in the 10-11 minute range.... Depends on the weather and pipe selection (as well as tune), they know the VG wont last long but for the money $140 they can buy 2 for almost the price of a P5 or a JP motor...
So... The choices are a plenty... Good luck!
All the insanely fast guys around here run Nova P5's and JP B5 (both are around $250+ a pop) and a FEW run V-specs... But surprisingly a couple of guys have OS VG's (modded) and get great power AND great runtime in the 10-11 minute range.... Depends on the weather and pipe selection (as well as tune), they know the VG wont last long but for the money $140 they can buy 2 for almost the price of a P5 or a JP motor...
So... The choices are a plenty... Good luck!
05-06-2008, 12:28 AM
#50
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
It also depends on what you are looking for a powerband on your motors. From my experience if you are/were an electric guy you will really enjoy the vspec and likes because of the extreamly linear power band. However on a motor like the RB C6 this cannot be said, I cannot say it is a bad motor however it has a TON of power which leads it to be very violent and often times un drivable for your average racer.
The picco and some of the others mentioned fall in between these two extremes.
Just my .02
The picco and some of the others mentioned fall in between these two extremes.
Just my .02
05-06-2008, 04:27 AM
#51
I do know how to tune and break in a engine that is why I consider any engine that I get under 12 gallons on to be sub-par. If you are happy with an engine that lasts 9-10 gallons then thats fine. I myself am not. Like I stated I would love to hear from anyone who has 10 or more gallons on a vspec or go tech without repinching,rebuilding or replacing bearings. I mean no disrespect towards anyone or their products this is just my honest opinion,however please dont insult me by stating facts about myself that you have no idea about.
-DC-
05-06-2008, 04:34 AM
#52
It also depends on what you are looking for a powerband on your motors. From my experience if you are/were an electric guy you will really enjoy the vspec and likes because of the extreamly linear power band. However on a motor like the RB C6 this cannot be said, I cannot say it is a bad motor however it has a TON of power which leads it to be very violent and often times un drivable for your average racer.
The picco and some of the others mentioned fall in between these two extremes.
Just my .02
The picco and some of the others mentioned fall in between these two extremes.
Just my .02
05-06-2008, 06:03 AM
#53
How our shop does it.
I'm not a Vspec fan either but I will tell you if you are only getting 4 gallons then there is something wrong. Everyone we have broken in for customers have been running strong well into 8 gallons plus. The reason I'm not a fan? They make great power but they are peaky. It is just a little harder to live with on the small tracks I normally run on. No biggie. They are good on the run time and their carbs are second to none.
I run the RB/Nova line. The C6 is the best engine I have run to date. With the 2045 it is a man mill that stretches the fuel to 11+ minutes.
The only engine that is close in the budget range is the Sportworks V2 .21. It gets 10+ minutes, is smooth and is an easy tuner. Don't really get out motored with that engine either.
My recommendations:
$300ish for just the engine ??? Nova P5 - RB S7 - RB WS7 - RB C6 - GRP .21
Under $300 for the whole thing??? SW V2 .21 w/ JP4 pipe for smooth and easy to live with. Aslo try RB S5 with JP-3 pipe.
Mid pack??? Picco .21 dist by OFNA is about $225 with incredible power and run time.
Good luck!
TEX
I run the RB/Nova line. The C6 is the best engine I have run to date. With the 2045 it is a man mill that stretches the fuel to 11+ minutes.
The only engine that is close in the budget range is the Sportworks V2 .21. It gets 10+ minutes, is smooth and is an easy tuner. Don't really get out motored with that engine either.
My recommendations:
$300ish for just the engine ??? Nova P5 - RB S7 - RB WS7 - RB C6 - GRP .21
Under $300 for the whole thing??? SW V2 .21 w/ JP4 pipe for smooth and easy to live with. Aslo try RB S5 with JP-3 pipe.
Mid pack??? Picco .21 dist by OFNA is about $225 with incredible power and run time.
Good luck!
TEX
05-06-2008, 06:54 AM
#54
05-06-2008, 10:18 AM
#55
The clocked C6 I currently run is one of my favorite motors..the C6 has a very odd exhaust port, and port timing.. RB has put major restriction into the design of the exhaust port, they have 90% of the exhaust flowing thru 20% of the exhaust port volume.. For some odd reason they put a 20 degree duration diffeence between the center port and the 2 eyebrow ports, which means the eyebrow ports are responsible for all the work..... which explains why the C6 doesn't crank off big high dyno numbers, it cannot breath enough to make any serious HP.......So along with all the other timing alterations I made I equalized all 3 exhaust ports and the final results were stellar... My current C6 is a monster of a motor, hits like a sledgehammer and screams like a onroad on the top end...... amazingly enough with a 086 tuned pipe we are clocking as high as 12 minutes on a 125 cc buggy tank in a 8T on a slick hardpack track (Canadian Winter Nationals) this is a fully "drag modded" C6, with extremely high port timings and crank induction numbers.... I am very impressed with the C6 to say the least, its a modders dream if you like to play with timing......... only downside is the chrome is hard and the sleeves are excessively difficult to cut.. so the final job is extremely time consuming and fairly expensive.
05-06-2008, 11:05 AM
#56
In the end, I think this video says it all... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbBhRAS839E
The moral of the story is in the last 20 seconds.
The moral of the story is in the last 20 seconds.
05-06-2008, 12:59 PM
#57
There are a lot of facotrs when asking an engine question. There are so many details and factors on how long an engine lasts and what is best. You need to factor in the pipe, fuel used, break in process, oiled air filter and clutch (to some maybe the most important). Then if that isn't enough...the way drivers drive the car
I myself come from the electric side, I've seen some guys just hear the rev of an engine and know exactly what to tune and how far. Some (such as myself) are not so lucky, engine tuning isn't as easy to some.
To start, some engines are really hard to tune. I started this season with the GO tech 5 port turbo. For the cost of the engine I think this is a good engine. I had a hard time tuning on the bottom end, I was able to hit the right tune but very hard to chase to me. With 1 gallon on it it seems to have a lot of compression still.
I had a Vspec last year and even during break-in and the engine fat it had a lot of low end torque. Tuning was way easier but I strongly believe this engine will run good with the tune off one direction or the other, I thingk this is why there are so many mixed results on OS engines life span, some might be lean on the bottom and fat on top, lean on the top or fat on the bottom and might temp well and run well but cause the engine's life to be shorter, others that have a good tune on them, run perfect, with a fuel like bryon's with the 11% oil in it will run for many gallons.
When picking and engine like many have said before, the safe route is choosing something that the local fast guys are running, or even sponsered drivers that run for a certain engine company. I say this because they are sponsered to help other racers, they know the engines and know how they are to be tuned and know the correct pipe and clutch combo.
I myself come from the electric side, I've seen some guys just hear the rev of an engine and know exactly what to tune and how far. Some (such as myself) are not so lucky, engine tuning isn't as easy to some.
To start, some engines are really hard to tune. I started this season with the GO tech 5 port turbo. For the cost of the engine I think this is a good engine. I had a hard time tuning on the bottom end, I was able to hit the right tune but very hard to chase to me. With 1 gallon on it it seems to have a lot of compression still.
I had a Vspec last year and even during break-in and the engine fat it had a lot of low end torque. Tuning was way easier but I strongly believe this engine will run good with the tune off one direction or the other, I thingk this is why there are so many mixed results on OS engines life span, some might be lean on the bottom and fat on top, lean on the top or fat on the bottom and might temp well and run well but cause the engine's life to be shorter, others that have a good tune on them, run perfect, with a fuel like bryon's with the 11% oil in it will run for many gallons.
When picking and engine like many have said before, the safe route is choosing something that the local fast guys are running, or even sponsered drivers that run for a certain engine company. I say this because they are sponsered to help other racers, they know the engines and know how they are to be tuned and know the correct pipe and clutch combo.
05-06-2008, 01:07 PM
#58
In the end, I think this video says it all... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbBhRAS839E
The moral of the story is in the last 20 seconds.
The moral of the story is in the last 20 seconds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSi2ljegZO8
05-06-2008, 01:23 PM
#59
Not trying to be cocky here... but is my car faster than those ones?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSi2ljegZO8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSi2ljegZO8
05-06-2008, 01:28 PM
#60
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
In the end, I think this video says it all... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KbBhRAS839E
The moral of the story is in the last 20 seconds.
The moral of the story is in the last 20 seconds.